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#31
11-22-2004, 07:32 PM
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Forgot the lock washer, my bad. Holder for fastening nut is definitely optional.
You should replace the ball joints while the control arms are off. I bought new Upper control arms, but that isn't absolutely necessary. What kind of spring compressor are you using? I recommend using the Klann, those front springs are loooong. I'm removing and resealing the steering box. Will replace couplers  \Oh yeah, other tips from the manual: Make sure the orientation of control arm bolts is correct. The head of the bolts on both arms should face each other. In other words, the nuts on the front bushing are on the leading edge and the nuts on the rear bushing are to the rear. Also, torque LCA bolts with the weight of the car on the wheels, same for top nut of shock absorber. But the bracket bolts of shock absorber should be tightened with the weight off.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 
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#32
11-27-2004, 09:48 PM
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Our intent was to unbolt shock, ball joint, brake line, tie rod, etc and lift the car letting the wheel swing down, I was a little fuzzy on this point but my brother in law has done nothing but mechanic work for 35 years and says this is a common way to do this when you have a lift to use, his brother made mention of occasionally having to " chain the spring" and a few other people who should know agreed this was an accepted method for this job. Should I be nervous?
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Ncnetman 1959 Chev 3100 Fleetside 1965 Mustang 1968 Torino GT fastback 1969 Ranchero 1974 240d 4-speed -for sale 1976 240d fresh paint- on hold 1978 300cd fresh paint and new rearwindshield rubber 1990 6.2 Suburban 194k-getting a 6.5 turbo 2008 Duramax Silverado 2015 VW Passat TDI
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#33
11-27-2004, 10:26 PM
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You mean to replace the control arm bushings?
This may work but you probably will have to chain the spring, it is very long. I don't know about other methods firsthand but I used the Klann compressor with success. It will set you back about $100 for the rental but you are dealing with something potentially very dangerous. It wasn't a lot of money in my mind considering this. BTW, I got the steering box out. I did it the hard way by removing the steering wheel and loosening the steering column so it could slide up and clear the coupler. This should make it easier to center the steering as I should be able to put the coupler on the box first. What is up with the cost of a new coupler??? $125  Resealing the box looks like it will be difficult.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
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#34
11-27-2004, 11:29 PM
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Upper and lower control arm bushings, passenger side subframe bushings and shocks this time.
These guys have several spring compressors, when my late father in law started the garage in the late 60's he was still in the marine corps and ended up with some of their excess tools off gov. surplus so they have stuff from cars to large trucks but they acted like it was not a big deal either way. We are also out in the sticks so finding one to rent would be very interesting. The funny thing is the steering coupler at $125.00 was well worth the money if you saw the condition mine was in. If I end up scraping the body (after transplanting the motor, etc) on the 220d I just got I will pull the steering coupling just to see if it is one that you can just change the bushings in and not have to buy the entire unit so next time could be a little cheaper.You might also check under the accelerater pedal mount, I found a dime-sized rust hole I need to fix. Did you think about just getting a steering box from the junk yard? I would not think it would be a high demand item and if you could get the yard to lift the front of the car, you should be able to get it in 30 min or less.
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Ncnetman 1959 Chev 3100 Fleetside 1965 Mustang 1968 Torino GT fastback 1969 Ranchero 1974 240d 4-speed -for sale 1976 240d fresh paint- on hold 1978 300cd fresh paint and new rearwindshield rubber 1990 6.2 Suburban 194k-getting a 6.5 turbo 2008 Duramax Silverado 2015 VW Passat TDI
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#35
11-28-2004, 12:37 PM
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Not sure what good the steering box out of a junker would do me except to experiment on. It would need resealing anyway and I think mine is in better condition. I never turn the wheel unless the car is moving at least a little bit. Don't know if that does any good. . .
 It sounds like you have a crew of experienced people, so I think you shouldn't have any trouble with those bushings. I had never worked on suspension before. The frame rail that was behind the steering box had been assaulted by brake fluid and grease. The paint is all but off but it seems to have not rusted due to the grease film. I don't know if I'll bother to clean and POR it although I think I really should. It is just a PITA to get it all clean enough for the POR to stick.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
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#36
11-28-2004, 01:08 PM
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Use a spring compressor, and probably only a Klann or something very similar will work. The spring will still be compressed several inches when the seat "swings away" from the bottom and it is very likely to fly out and smash something (to say nothing of being very difficult to get back in!). MB springs are LONG, unlike American ones that are short and stiff.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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