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  #76  
Old 12-14-2004, 04:39 PM
gerryvz's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Make sure you have one of the earlier injection pumps. You need to contact Neil Dubey at Star Motors and have this conversation with him. He is the most knowledgeable and will tell you exactly what you need to know. You're only going to get limited information here on this forum, simply because nobody here has the complete picture nor info that Neil does.

Cheers,
Gerry

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  #77  
Old 12-14-2004, 06:08 PM
PaulC
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by RR3
Ok guys, I'm buying the car.
I'm not afraid to spend money on getting it into ship shape - though I'm sure you've heard this before.

Anyways, what is the first thing I should do mechanically?
The MB shop actually has 4 6.3's that they work on, on a regular basis and they are willing to put in parts from people like Star Motors.

I'm thinking of having the underside of the car steam cleaned and then create a to do list.

Any advice?

If anyone thinks anything inthe list is not necessary, or if I should be looking at an alternative please mention.

1.Replace all brake lines.
2.Replace all fuel and oil lines.
3.Replace air comp lines.
4.Replace all engine and tranny and sub-frame mounts.
5.Replace tranny with rebuilt tranny, yes, no?
6 Replace rear axle with rebuilt axle - not sure if I want to diagnose the leaky rear axles.
7.Replace drive shaft? - there is no clanky sound so maybe it doesn't need to be changed. The only thing that I have heard clanking from the rear is what sounded like a diff, taking a corner at an intersection.
Could it possible be the homokinetic joint that needs to be replaced?
8.Fuel pump had already been replaced, I think it is ok.
9.Pull gas tank, and refinish.
10. Steering gear box looked good, those 3 nuts on the subframe were tight, so no cracks were present, though I did notice some steering fluid (red coloured) leaking. There is NOT any clanking from the steering at the tightest turns in either direction.
11. The Kingpins DO NOT need to be changed they are solid, no play on either sides.

Anything else?
Cooling system needs? What shape is the radiator in? The heater core? Not an engine that I would like to toast.
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  #78  
Old 12-15-2004, 01:19 AM
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Paul, I agree. We never even drive one untill all cooling systems are rebuilt or replaced with new parts. That is Math 101. Guys who think they can are kidding themselves. Another point was raised much earlier; that 6.3s will end up on the scrap heap. Well, what can I say. That's great. Think of it, all those cheap parts. The last one in the world will be quite valuable. More so than any of the countless Gullwings parked forever in garages. Garage queens, what jokes. Drive them, or sell them. Another one of my theories.

Last edited by Dan Smith; 12-15-2004 at 09:46 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #79  
Old 12-15-2004, 09:50 AM
BlackE55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Smith
More so than any of the countless Gullwings parked forever in garages. Garage queens, what jokes. Drive them, or sell them. Another one of my theories.
We were just talking about this very same subject and it got a little heated

Close to perfect 560SEC on ebay!
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  #80  
Old 12-16-2004, 09:02 AM
RR3 RR3 is offline
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Is there anyone else in North America, where I can get a competitive quote for a rebuild 6.3 engine, tranny, and rear axle to compare with Star Motors' or do I really have any other choice?

Last edited by RR3; 12-16-2004 at 09:12 AM.
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  #81  
Old 12-21-2004, 11:17 PM
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RR3, where my engines are modified, meaning rebuilt with all new parts but also altered, the costs are twice what Dubey's Star Motors charges. But then, we do more, everything. Our Goal, to cut as much friction as possible. I suggest Dubey for a more modest cost. If you wish a monster, without the thought of cost, MBI in Portland, Oregon. phone 503 231 0444. Trannies, Neil's firm is king. Fuel injection systems, two firms in California. Rear diffs, only Neil's Star Motors. Front end rebuilds, any good local firm can do it. Ditto for the entire fuel delivery system. Shift to 15 inch steel wheels with stock 15 inch hubcaps, the identical 6.3 look. Tires, 225/60 15, front and rear.
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  #82  
Old 12-22-2004, 12:24 AM
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"Unhinged Troll" - Jim B.
 
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You can purchase both long- and short-block 6.3 motors from Metric Motors in Southern California. You have to call them (Google for their web site) for quotes as they don't list them on the web site.

Your best best, as Dan says, is Star Motors as 6.3s are the bulk of their business and they know them inside and outside better than anyone out there.

Again, the old adage applies as Dan and I have said since day one on this thread: when it comes to a 6.3, if you have the ask the price, then you shouldn't own the car.

it's very difficult to kill a 6.3 motor. Yes, the peripherals, alternator,water pump, thermostat, brake system, hoses, ignition, belts, motor mounts, fuel injection pump, cooling system, yes all of that stuff goes out. It can also be rebuilt as well because it's mechanical.

The actual block and head of the 6.3 are pretty close to as bulletproof as an engine can be as long as they have an adequate supply of lubrication. Some did, some didn't.

it sounds as if some time spent on the phone with Neil Dubey would be time well spent in assessing where you are. Personally I would have had answers to all of these questions BEFORE purchasing the car, because it would reduce the potential for expensive mistakes and time-consuming detours to find vendors and places that can do the work. But as some say, "the journey is the reward." Perhaps Dan subscribes to that philosophy too.

In any case, I think a thorough, early morning or evening conversation with Neil Dubey at Star Motors would take care of your needs for information you seek here. He doesn't charge for consulting time, and is plenty happy to make suggestions and answer questions.

Cheers,
Gerry
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  #83  
Old 02-15-2005, 05:06 PM
RR3 RR3 is offline
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Now that I have spent some time in the car I can give you guys some feedback.

The car is truly in amazing condition.
This thing has a ton of torque.
The air bags hold very well. It has been sitting for more than 2 weeks, with only slight sag in the front, but once the car is started it sets to the proper level right away. There is absolutely no sag over night.

The car pulls really strong, although I dont know how it pulled when it was brand new. I can get the car to squak pretty well between 1 and 2nd upshifts.

The interior, although having some slight cracking on the parchement coloured leather, is fabulous. The wood is in great shape no fade or cracking, even the piece on the dash is in incredible shape.

The only thing I still notice is in reverse gear at parking speeds, for example backing up into a parking spot, there is a "bounciness" felt in the car, kind of like a "hopping" feeling as you are backing into the parking spot.

What could that be?

Also today was a bit of a wet, mild day about 40F, car started well, but took more turns than normal to start once I was out in the wet damp weather. Is there anything I can do to help me with that?

Thanks
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  #84  
Old 02-15-2005, 07:41 PM
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"Unhinged Troll" - Jim B.
 
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Location: The Woodlands, TX
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The vibration you feel are the brake hold support bearings, in the axles. These are curved pieces of plastic that will vibrate and/or groan if not lubricated or are worn out.

There are grease fittings next to these that you can try to pump some grease into; if the bearings are not worn out they they will stop vibrating, but you have to keep on top of this periodically. More likely these are worn out and probably need replacing. It's not a major job, but tough enough.

You can get a modern version with Teflon shims from Star Motors, at www.300sel.com

This is a very common issue with 6.3s, by the way. 90%+ of them have it at one time or another.

Cheers,
Gerry
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  #85  
Old 02-15-2005, 10:51 PM
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Does this apply to 3.5 coupe? I have very similar vibration when the car is in the gear and the break pedal released. The car starts moving and you can feel light jerking back and forth. Once gas is applied it moves smooth. I'm possitive it's not engine hesitation. Or is it? Any ideas?

Thanks, Vilius
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  #86  
Old 02-15-2005, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerryvz
The vibration you feel are the brake hold support bearings, in the axles. These are curved pieces of plastic that will vibrate and/or groan if not lubricated or are worn out.

There are grease fittings next to these that you can try to pump some grease into; if the bearings are not worn out they they will stop vibrating, but you have to keep on top of this periodically. More likely these are worn out and probably need replacing. It's not a major job, but tough enough.

You can get a modern version with Teflon shims from Star Motors, at www.300sel.com

This is a very common issue with 6.3s, by the way. 90%+ of them have it at one time or another.

Cheers,
Gerry
When my dad had his W112 300SEL lwb, I always made sure the grease monkeys at the service station greased ALL the chassis points including those bearings.
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  #87  
Old 02-16-2005, 12:01 AM
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"Unhinged Troll" - Jim B.
 
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If memory serves me correctly, there are something like 13 grease nipples underneath the 6.3, and many of them are difficult to get at so they are overlooked (neglected) or unknown by mechanics unfamilar with the car...

Cheers,
Gerry
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  #88  
Old 02-16-2005, 08:53 AM
RR3 RR3 is offline
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Hi Gerry,

Thanks very much for your reply.
Do you have a diagram of where all these grease fittings are under the car?

Also as mentioned in my previous post, the car seems to run very strong. Is there anything that I should notice though that would tell me if it is time to rebuild the injector pump or not? What should I look out for?

Also is there anyone who sells v rated white walled tires? My car is dark blue with parchement interior, and with the bright work, a white walled tire looks surprisingly better on this car.

Thanks

R
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  #89  
Old 02-16-2005, 10:29 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 997
Here's two lube charts, one for the 111 and one for the 108 model. The 109 shares similar underpinnings with these models, so they should help you out until a 109-specific diagram surfaces. Both are auf Deutsch, so lassen sie uns aufgeregt erhalten! Or something like that.

http://www.w111.net/html/abschmierplan.html
http://www.dbdepot.de/bilder/service/schmierplan_108.jpg
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  #90  
Old 02-16-2005, 11:45 AM
gerryvz's Avatar
"Unhinged Troll" - Jim B.
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 1,268
Quote:
Originally Posted by RR3
Hi Gerry,

Thanks very much for your reply.
Do you have a diagram of where all these grease fittings are under the car?

Also as mentioned in my previous post, the car seems to run very strong. Is there anything that I should notice though that would tell me if it is time to rebuild the injector pump or not? What should I look out for?

Also is there anyone who sells v rated white walled tires? My car is dark blue with parchement interior, and with the bright work, a white walled tire looks surprisingly better on this car.

Thanks

R
Typically bad injection pumps tend to run rich, due to wear in the fuel cam. They have their own oil supply (sump, dipstick) and this must be changed from time to time. Also, one critical tip -- DO NOT ADJUST THE MIXTURE WITH THE CAR RUNNING. This will immediately screw up the pump. You rotate the mixture control knob ONLY with the engine off. I believe you can get information either at www.m-100.info or via a question at www.m-100.cc about how to adjust the mixture, I'm not going to go into it here.

Your best bet is to have a mechanic familiar with the mechanical injection system, adjust and calibrate it. Not too many of these around. These pumps are quite fiddly and you can get into trouble if you don't know what you are doing. Normally most of them do require some level of adjustment.

You can get whitewall tires but not in the speed and load rating that the car requires, in the stock 14" wheel size. IT's a compromise really. You may want to try Coker Tire (www.cokertire.com) and discuss with them what options they would have available for the car. The 6.3 came stock with a V-rated tire of the 205-70-14 size (actually a P-Metric equivalent) and many owners use H-rated 215-series touring rubber instead, because they can't get proper V-rated rubber anymore. Only US 6.3s had whitewalls, all European and many US cars had blackwall tires, which I view as being more "proper" for the nature of the 6.3. I think Tire Rack and Coker Tire would be your best bets to investigate here.

Good luck.

Cheers,
Gerry

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