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  #1  
Old 02-16-2005, 10:45 AM
gottagetitandgo
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 18
1970 280SE Coupe needs front reinforcement

I just purchased a 1970 280SE coupe about a month ago. I knew it was in need of some rust repair. The engine was checked out, the oil changed, changed a few engine parts and for the most part she runs good. Now I want to take it to a body shop for rust repair, body work and paint. I'm asking anyone out there if they know where I can get the front bumper reinforcement steel that sits right under the radiator for the bumper to bolt on to. I don't mind a used one cut off a junk car. I went to my local juck yard looking for the part, but they haven't had a car that in their yard for a while.

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  #2  
Old 02-16-2005, 05:32 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 20
I have a 67 111 and found K&K manufactuing for the exact part you are looking for. I haven't ordered any parts yet as I'm still working the mechanical problems. I'd be interested to know how it works out if you do use them.

www.kkmfg.com

Good Luck!
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2005, 08:57 PM
gottagetitandgo
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 18
Hey 67coupegroup,
Thanks for responding, but I contacted K&K a couple of weeks ago. They told me the price on that part is close to $300 opposed to $172 or so 4 months ago. They told me Mercedes up'd the price so their prices went up too. They might be my..our only source for a new reinforement part. I'll keep looking and if I find anything I'll post it.
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  #4  
Old 02-16-2005, 09:16 PM
JMela's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 997
Try these guys:

http://www.tristarparts.com/
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2005, 02:27 AM
gottagetitandgo
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 18
JMELA,
Thanks for the link. I've e-mailed these guys twice before and still haven't recieved a response. I just sent them another one. We'll see.
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  #6  
Old 02-18-2005, 09:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,354
I have two of those reinforcements cut from dead cars in Oregon. They cost me all of 30$ each about 5 years ago. It's a matter of finding a junk yard willing to spend the time cutting it out.

Of course, I still haven't done any of the work on the two cars that needed them. So much rust, so little time.

-CTH
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  #7  
Old 02-18-2005, 09:35 PM
gottagetitandgo
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 18
CTH350,
Would you be interested in selling one of your reinforcement pieces to me. I just left the M-B junk yard today in Miami and they haven't seen a w111 in years. If there is a junk yard hound checking this out, GET ME ONE TOO! I'll pay shippng plus the cost of the part...put a l'l something on top for yourself.
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  #8  
Old 02-19-2005, 01:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario Canada
Posts: 107
Hi all -

i just finished replacing those bumper support on my 61 220sb. They came from a 60 coupe. - same fit.

Be prepared for alot of work. You need to take the fenders off, then chisel the old part from the subframe. The front inner fender is attached to these. you will have to cut across the front to separate. Then you will need to weld the parts back together. I'd say 2 or 3 days work if you DIY.

I considered fabricating the pieces, before I lucked out with the ones I found from the 69. They were also replcements done in the 80's after which the car sat for many years. This is a common rust problem and you may have a hard time finding good ones used. I was quoted $700 for labour which now seems reasonable.
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1961 220SB Hydrak
1966 230S - Too Good for Parts
1981 300SD - now in Oakville
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  #9  
Old 02-20-2005, 07:59 AM
gottagetitandgo
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 18
Hector111 Thanks

I have a body guy in place to replace that reinforcement piece along with prepping the car for paint. So, until I find this part I'm having work done on the engine and other areas that need attention. That was some good info for anybody needing to perform this procedure, thanks.
If anybody knows somebody that has W111 coupe parts in good condition let me know with the quickness.
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2005, 08:10 AM
gottagetitandgo
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 18
Just in case Hector111

I was thinking, while I'm waiting for the part I might want to start taking off the damaged piece. Could you give me a more detailed discription of the process. When you say chisel, is that the first step after removing the fenders?
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  #11  
Old 02-20-2005, 10:15 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario Canada
Posts: 107
Hi MIA

First remove your bumper - and save the mouniting brackets. Also the front lights and rubber grommets.

Next remove the 2 horns from the member.

To remove the fenders - unscrew all the bolts in under the hood. Be careful here. MB uses a sloted clip as a nut to attach the outer fender to the inner fender. You can spin-out the nut. Use oil and do not force too much. If it starts spinning without unscrewing, go to the next one. Take one out and study it. You will find that if turned to a certain position, where the slot lines up to the hole it will release without having to unscrew all the way.

Next, remove the 2 philips screws at the bottom front of the rocker by the wheel. they are hidden under your rocker chrome trim. The trim is fastened by a screw in the wheelwell and snap clips along the length. Also 2 screws at the front of the fender.

Remove the inner mud guard inside the wheelwell. this is held by 1 bolt and 2 sheet metal screw. It has a rubber seal, so pull it off carefully. You will find 1 bolt at the door post, inside the fender - way in there. Is a 10mm so feel around if you cant see it. - remove it.

And the last bolt is inside the front door above the hinge - take it out as well.

Dont expect the fender just to fall off. It has a rubber seal which may be glued along the top, were all the bolts were. You will have to lift up on the fender while releasing seal with a flat pry bar - suggest 3 people 2 to lift and 1 to prey.

What a pain - hey?

The reward is that you will fully expose your inner fenders and can take care of any rust you find. clean well and use rustproofing.

You will now see how the front member is attached.

MB uses spot welds. The front subframe is attached to the cross member with spot welds on each flange comming off the subframe. Use a chisel and grinder to separate these spot welds. Clean these up and fit the new part ready to weld back.

If you buy the new part, it will come in 2 pcs - inner and outer. This may be confusing when buying new ones - $150 each - you need both. This is because it will be easier to weld the inside first and then the front one last.

If you are a little handy, and have a hand grinder, I think you can do everything up to the welding (if you dont have a welder). It is important to do this right - it is part of the car structure. Spend the money on new part and make up the cost by doing part of your own labour.

If your body guy has not done this before, he may be mis quoting you on the cost - it is more than 1 days labour ($100/hr= $800) DO NOT JUST WELD PCS ON WITHOUT REMOVING FENDERS. you will destroy you car.s integrity and value.

I hope this helps.

Wally
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1961 220SB Hydrak
1966 230S - Too Good for Parts
1981 300SD - now in Oakville

Last edited by Hector111; 02-20-2005 at 10:23 AM.
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2005, 09:58 PM
gottagetitandgo
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 18
Hector111 You're the Man!

That was great advise.
Did you have to replace the seal on the fender? How is it putting the fenders back on?
If I decide to do it, I know where start. Thanks a six pack

MIAcoupe
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2005, 11:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario Canada
Posts: 107
Putting the fender on is alot easier than removal. I used a tube of auto panel adhesive instead of the old rubber

With the fenders off, you will see any other rust that needs to be fixed
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1961 220SB Hydrak
1966 230S - Too Good for Parts
1981 300SD - now in Oakville
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2005, 06:45 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Denver
Posts: 287
Tried here?

http://www.dbdepot.de/englisch/111/index_1024_e.html
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2005, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario Canada
Posts: 107
Here is parts diagram

http://www.kkmfg.com/images/111/111bodypanels.gif

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1961 220SB Hydrak
1966 230S - Too Good for Parts
1981 300SD - now in Oakville
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