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  #1  
Old 04-05-2005, 06:42 PM
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Location: Western Washington
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Gotta love that German steel

Found out #2 rod bearing failed (funny, my parts car had a #2 failure by PO).
Really fortunate it was #2, since #1 and #2 are the only ones accessable, behind the oil pan.

The #2 bearing was as 'loose as a Fox in a hen house' and the shells had raised edges. The crankshaft was remarkly in good shape. #320 and #600 emery cloth polished it up. The piston wrist pin didn't have any play.

I sure would like to replace them all, but the upper oil pan is bolted to the transmission and the engine would have to be raised (I think).

Anyone been down this road before?

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old
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  #2  
Old 04-06-2005, 12:54 AM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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Did this with a Triumph Spitfire 1147cc..... Was study of existing bearing surfaces that makes the difference - like pink core metal showing through worn out surfaces.

Must be the same as eyeballing MB rocker arm surfaces on twincams. Look for bearings to show wear beyond surface laminations.

Mike em on micrometer if you care about how far from spec they've gone. Otherwise just replace em with standard size, then hope the crankshaft has not spun out of round. That's probably an irrepairable situation if you have to turn the journals.

Git yerself some ebay standard size bearing caps, meanwhile shop for another engine says me.
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  #3  
Old 04-06-2005, 02:46 AM
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Was wondering how long..

the Triumph bottom end lasted, after the "Mickey Mouse' repair.

Since I am doing the same thing, I was hoping for 6 months (without any freeway travel)
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old
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  #4  
Old 04-06-2005, 09:01 AM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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About 1/2 a High School Summer was all the time that it bought me...... enough to find a decent junkyard engine.
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  #5  
Old 04-07-2005, 10:48 PM
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Mike'd the crankshaft journal

And it's not good. Apparently, when the #2 rod bearing spun, it took off 0.025 from the journal (That's 1/2 mm+). I seriously doubt a new bearing will last 50 miles. Now who was that member who put in a Chev 226 V-6? I'll do a search.
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old
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  #6  
Old 04-08-2005, 12:42 AM
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I think it was 68_Mercedes who did the conversion (or at least bought the converted vehicle). I see a bearing set 0.25mm smaller in size (47.75) on FastLane, maybe you could actually call the dealer and see if you could get a second repair set (presumably 0.50mm smaller)?
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  #7  
Old 04-08-2005, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomguy
I think it was 68_Mercedes who did the conversion (or at least bought the converted vehicle). I see a bearing set 0.25mm smaller in size (47.75) on FastLane, maybe you could actually call the dealer and see if you could get a second repair set (presumably 0.50mm smaller)?
Tomguy your not actually suggesting that Munichtaxi use an undersized bearing on an unground journal are you? Putting an undersized bearing on a journal that has not been properly ground to size is a sure way of having the engine throw the rod. Given the state of his motor I would highly recommend that Munichtaxi ditch the bottom end of this motor and find a good replacement or lump the car with US iron.
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  #8  
Old 04-08-2005, 08:37 PM
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Yep, headed for the boneyard.

Too bad the W114's are worthless to the scrapyards around here.
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old
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  #9  
Old 04-08-2005, 09:08 PM
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Personally, I'd rather take the chance and put an undersized bearing on it than just junk the vehicle. Whether it died by my cheapass repair or not, it'd be worth the same to the junkyard in either case, and if I could get more use out of the vehicle, I'd do it.

That having been said, I would do it more as an "Experiment" than anything. I wouldn't count on the vehicle to be reliable and I'd baby it for at least the first month until I felt the bearing and cam had worn in together properly. Then I'd take it apart, inspect it, replace it if need be, and continue on.
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1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2005, 11:18 PM
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Now there's an idea !

Put quick dis-connect bolts on the the oil pan, and replace the bearing every 6 weeks.

It shouldn't throw a rod because it will be driven at 35-40 mph (by daughter) and has a 4-speed auto transmission. Hmmm

Guess it was just the old Chevy's that woulsd allow the placement of shims under the rod bearings.

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

Last edited by MunichTaxi; 04-08-2005 at 11:23 PM. Reason: addition
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