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  #1  
Old 01-22-2001, 08:41 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 509
Howdy,

I currently have a Toyota Corolla as a daily driver (88 vintage) that's about to assume parts car status. While I enjoy driving it, and it's dead simple, I have lately had a hankerin' to drive a 115 body 4 door. I currently own a 108 bodied and own a (now parts car) 116 body but I don't want to drive the 108 on bad days or beat it up to and from work.

My question is: Are there any posters out there who drive 115's on a daily basis? How practical is this in today's world (highway traffic, etc...) I'm kinda looking for an earlier car with the cleaner bumpers. I'd also prefer a 4 cyl to a 6 cyl for simpler maintenance and less weight on the front.

Any tips. I'd really like one that has as few features as possible (even manual steering), but require A/C here in Oklahoma. I'd sure like a sunroof too. The 108 has a sunroof as did the 116 and this was a cool feature.

Are the carburetor's reliable or rebuildable?

Thanks for your input.

Sholin

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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2001, 07:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
Hello Sholin,
I bought a 1972 220 gas (115) in 1987.I replaced it with a 250 sedan (114) in 1988 which I still have.
Both cars had AC and AT. I added power steering to the 220 before I sold it and wouldn't own either car now without it. These cars are heavy and parking was a major pain on the 220 without power assist. Mine didn't handle that well with the manual steering either and converting to power assist was a major improvement.
After 1970 most 114/115 Benzes (except diesel) were only sold here with automatic trans. My gas 220 with AT had OK power, exept when pulling uphill with the AC on. (I would only have a 4 cyl diesel with a stick shift!) Any of these cars are more lively and fun to drive with the stick shift. As for servicing I find the single cam 6 cyl easier to work on than the 4 cyl as the AC and air filter arrangement made access more difficult on the 4 cyl. The twin carbs on the 6 can be a problem (Some people hate them-mine have been pretty good these past 13 years). Gas mileage on my 220 was about 15 - 24 and on my 250
runs about 14 - 22. (I'd expect better
with a stick shift on either car.)
The 250 6cyl is alot nicer than the 4
in terms of smoothness and power. I can hardly feel it idling-just a little valve-clatter. Strangely, my 220 4cyl seemed happier / revved easier at freeway speeds! Parts are still availible from numerous sources
including salvage yards as they made so many 114/115 variations. The cars are relatively simple to work on. Heating/AC is better than earlier
models but lack the trouble-prone automatic climate control of later cars. As for daily driving on "Bad Days", the 114/115 cars are 25+ years old now and can be horrible rusters! My 250 has held up well considering I've never had a garage to keep it in and still has the original paint. It does have some rust. I've patched the floors and trunk in several places.
I drive it as much as I can, even in the rain, but no longer in the snow-
don't want to'rub salt in the wounds'.
I drive my Isuzu pickup if there's salt on the roads. I could say alot more but don't want to publish a book. you can contact me here if you have any more questions.
Good Luck,
Mark DiSilvestro
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2001, 09:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 438
I owned a 1971 220/8, no P/S, no A/C, 4 Speed manual, roll up windows as a daily driver/family car. We bought it with 80,000 miles on it and sold it with 160,000 (at a loss of a mere $500). It was replaced by a 1971 250/8, P/S, A/C, A/T, P/W. We bought it with 60,000 on it and sold it with 167,000 on the clock (for a loss of a mere $500, again). I really didn't like the 220 that much. The manual steering made the car truck like (my wife hated it!). The power was fine but the car had a single Stromberg CD carburetor that was weird and somewhat fussy. The 250 was a great car but we outgrew it when our fourth child was born and ended up with a couple of Taurus wagons and then a 300TE. The 250 had various niggles with the carburetion as these were the early years of emission controls. The A/C was simple and effective, at least with a light colored car in California. Remember, this is the chassis M/B used to build the 350/450/500/560SL on, and they are great fun to drive. I remember the 250 as more fun than my 123 in handling characteristics. Take time to find a good one, they aren't worth much so dumping money into a rat is not advisable.
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  #4  
Old 01-25-2001, 08:25 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,318
When we first moved to Washingon, my wife and I shared a '72 250C as our only car. It was fine except in the snow, where it was a major pain. We bought it with 80K and put about 10K miles on it and had to replace the cam - but that was a pre-exisiting problem. The carbs can be a major problem, but once you get them right, they are OK. I think that the earlier the car, the better because MB did crazy things with emissions in the 69-74 time period. The best running car I had was a '70 250C.

They are a lot of fun to work on. Plenty of room and not terribly complicated.
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #5  
Old 01-25-2001, 07:31 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 509
Thanks everyone for the advice. I haven't made up my mind yet. I would really like a 114/115 bodied car, but whatever I buy, It's gotta get me to an from work reliably. I do own multiple cars, but the Camaro isn't what you'd call an all weather car. Snow or even rain make for some real white knuckle driving. The only all weather car I have now is the one I'd replace with the 114/115. Of course a 123 is also an option, but I like the older, simpler cars. Having side vent windows is kindof cool too. I really appreciate them on the 108.

Thanks again for all the good advice.

Sholin in Oklahoma.
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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.
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  #6  
Old 02-09-2001, 01:30 PM
Jack
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sugarland, TX
Posts: 285
I drive a 75 240D as my daily driver, the car's current mileage is 275K. The std equipments are MB tex, auto transmission manual windows, A/c, power steering, brake, NO sunroof.

The only major problems is the steering gear box frame houseing has cracked, rear windows seal leaks, and I have to replace the injector pump.

If you find a good one, you may have to replace the seat pads, and look out for RUST.

jack
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2001, 06:07 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 509
Thanks for the FB Jack, I already have a 108, so I know what rubber parts get really dry and crispy after approx 30 yrs. Still, I'd like to also have a 114/115 with and emphasis on simple.

I have a question: How's the 240D for around town and highway. I've driven a 300D 123, but never a 240D. I'd surely like my daily driver to keep up with highway traffic.

Sholin
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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2001, 08:15 AM
Jack
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sugarland, TX
Posts: 285
Sholin,

The 240D is not a very quick car, it starts slooow, but it does acceptable highway speed. I believe the spec for the 115 body's 240D zero to sixty was 16 sec. The max speed on the highway is 85MPH. I have no problem keep up with highway traffic.

I also owned a 300D, but the 240D is still faster.

jack
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2001, 09:52 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
Hello Sholin,
'Jylee'has a good point in his previous posting about cracking around the frame-rail steering mounts on 114/115 cars. My 1972 250 cracked at the bolt holes through the frame rail.
I fitted longer bolts and heavy steel plate for repair and keep an eye on tire pressure. Also avoid hard leaning on the steering wheel during parking manuvers. (Ironically,during my high school years, my first Mercedes, A 1961 180b with a different chassis design, cracked at the steering mounts. I had to order a new subframe from Germany for about $180 - in 1973, a big deal for a kid earning lawn mowing money!)
Good Luck, Mark
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2001, 08:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 49
My daily driver is a 1972 220d, powder steering, 4-speed, no air conditioning. It has no trouble keeping up in Los Angeles traffic, including freeways. Not having A/C in Oklahoma, however, might not be pleasant in the summer. I think it would be fine for most of the year, however. I get about 27 mpg in town; and, haven't really had it on a long trip to see how good it would do. You are correct on how simple it is. Parts are definitely available. I have already replaced the flex disks, drive shaft bear/holder. I was rearended a few months ago. Was able to get a replacement aftermarket lens and reflector for about $35 each. I love this car, although my lady friend wishes I would get a proper 'date car.'
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Jeff Naumann
Torrance, California
1972 220D 138k miles (sold)
1982 300SD 263k miles
1989 BMW 750iL 183k miles
1993 Dodge D250 Cummins 5.9 202k Miles
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  #11  
Old 02-12-2001, 08:32 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 49
My daily driver is a 1972 220d, powder steering, 4-speed, no air conditioning. I purchased it from the original owner last July for $1000. It came with five new Michelins, new radiator, water pump, hoses and belts. All the brakes appear to be new. Good interior and exterior.

It has no trouble keeping up in Los Angeles traffic, including freeways. Not having A/C in Oklahoma, however, might not be pleasant in the summer. I think it would be fine for most of the year, however. I get about 27 mpg in town; and, haven't really had it on a long trip to see how good it would do.

You are correct on how simple it is. Parts are definitely available. I have already replaced the flex disks, drive shaft bearing/holder. I was rearended a few months ago. Was able to get a replacement aftermarket lens and reflector for about $35 each. I love this car, although my lady friend wishes I would get a proper 'date car.'

Jeff Naumann
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Jeff Naumann
Torrance, California
1972 220D 138k miles (sold)
1982 300SD 263k miles
1989 BMW 750iL 183k miles
1993 Dodge D250 Cummins 5.9 202k Miles
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  #12  
Old 02-16-2001, 12:05 PM
arochard
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Posts: n/a
My daily driver is a 1976 230, 4 cyl gas car. I must say after a year of ownership there has been quite a few problems, but nothing you wouldn't expect from a 25 year old car. I've found that these 4 cyl cars are good on gas, not too much power, but enough for city driving. Being here in Toronto, also requires a lot of cold weather driving, something these cars don't like too much. I find that anything below minus 10 Celsius and you're in trouble.

The main headache has been the carburetor. This model is equipped with a Stromberg 175 CD carb, that has given nothing but problems from day one. I has it rebuilt and didn't make much difference. Other owners suggest a conversion of some sort. I'm still looking into it.

As always rust is a concern. Make sure the floors are in good shape, and/or repairable.

If you love the car and are willing to figure out this carburetor, this is a great model for a daily driver. I think I'm getting over the hump in terms of repairs, and I've only spent about CDN$6,000 on it in total (including purchase) and let's face it, once you change something on these cars, that's pretty much it for about 10 years or so.

Good Luck

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230.4 W115
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2001, 03:15 AM
Rafael Tomas
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w115 Daily Driver


I have a 1969 200 w115 which is my daily driver. It came from the local Philippine Mercedes dealership and so was quite bare. Clear white glass, manual everything, no sunroof, no central locks, etc. It's what a TAXI cab specs.

I bought it for Php 35,000.00 (USD 700.00) and have since spent Php 200,000.00 (USD 4000.00)including 2 junkers as parts car. Crazy by any standards but I couldn't justify taking the car apart and putting it back together without having done proper repair workn on it.

Things done include a thorough body work and paint job (the floors were rusted through, the tail was sagging to thepoint that the rear doors wouldn't open on occasion, also the pillars were rusted off from the running boards) and replacement of most of the rubber parts.

after 11 months, the car is almost done and runs very reliably. I have in fact unloaded my heavy tool kit from the trunk as my confidence level is at an all time high.

I've replaced the class with blue tinted ones from one of the junkers i got, throwing in the front double bumpers and rear wrap around bumpers as well. Replaced the cowl/grill with the metal mesh type (as opposed to the gray plastic kind) Also got front and rear bumperettes, new carpets (locally made for around USD150.00) and so on and so forth. Would want to tell you the whole story but I wouldn't want to bore you.

Let me know how your search turns out.

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