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  #46  
Old 08-30-2005, 09:07 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 44
Thanks Pat - is there an easy way to get the plastic resevoir off? I think it just unscrews, but it was fighting with me last night, and I didn't want to get too rough with in since a new one is about $50.

I agree with regards to the booster - I am not sure that I don't have smoke, but once I get the master cyl redone, then we will soon find out. I understand why the bypass is required now - thanks for explaining that, I thought it was just one big cylinder. Hopefully I will be able to look at it myself once I get that nut and bolt off with my good wife's help later on this evening. Interesting thing was, when I was under there last night, I noticed most of the paint was missing on the driver side of the firewall, indicating that at some point in its life the master cylinder blew all the brake fluid out all over the driver's feet. It looks a little like that around the booster too, but I am not sure how long the brake fluid has been there, certainly not a recent leak out. I have had the car for a year and a bit, and rebuilt the engine last year, and this year it has been mainly aesthetic things inside, and now the brakes.

If you could let me know about the reservoir that would help. Thanks,
Rory

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  #47  
Old 08-31-2005, 08:32 PM
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Location: Milford,NH
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look under the resevoir bottle you see what looks like about a 1/4 inch thick nut and it takes between a 1 1/16 to a 1 1/8 wrench its a metric size but as I recall I used a 1 1/8 wrench. You have to find a wrench that is less than 3/8 inch thick or it wont fit in there and then just un screw it. You could use an adjustable if you could find one thin enough but most adjustable wrenchs that size are too thick. After you get it off you will see there is a thin screen in ther that you will clean.
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1963 220B
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  #48  
Old 09-01-2005, 01:15 AM
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Thanks for the info Pat, I will have to find the right wrench for the tool box as all mine are too thick, both metric and imperial.

The good news is I managed to get the master cylinder out and hour or so ago using a miniature vise grip on the bolt inside by the brake pedal - my wife can't help and is out tonight with her friends, so it makes things all that much easier.

The outside is a bit pitted with rust, but nothing too bad. I had the most trouble in the end with the brake line that is in the 7/8 o'clock position. It has, on mine, a different attachment than the rest for some reason, the larger nut is attached to a medium nut, then to the smaller one on the end of the brake line similar to the others that screw directly in to the master cylinder. The only way I was able to get the MC off in the end was to unscrew it from the nut which was a little difficult, but it worked in the end. I have now cleaned the master cylinder out, and looked into the bore, it measures 15/16" which is a good thing, since that is what the kit is that is coming. The inside looks clean, without any rust pitting. The seals look OK, not sure what led to the failure, I think it still may be the booster, although I am going to do the bypass as you suggested for now. I will clean the inside of the MC with a little 1500 grit, then rebuild the thing, whilst cleaning the outside with a heavier sand paper, and maybe some of that anti rust goop.

Whislt I am doing this, is it worth looking at the MC for the clutch as well? I looked inside there for the first time (the clutch pedal does not come all the way back on its own) and noticed the fluid was clear. Not sure what is in there, but the reservoir was full. I think it may be the slave, which is OK, since I have a replacement. What fluid should be used in the clutch reservoir for the hydraulics, and also, I assume that I should be using Dot 4 for the brakes? Will keep you all posted on the progress, and also the removal, draining, and mothballing of the booster, if I figure that is the problem after fixing the brake MC. If the booster still works, great, but if not, then I am not going to go with the $800 rebuild, since I only paid slightly more for the car after an estate sale a while back.
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  #49  
Old 09-01-2005, 08:50 PM
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Location: Milford,NH
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I agree about not spending on booster. I know I only need about $ 15. worth of seals and I know I will find them But id fit in a booster from a chevy in a junk yard before I pay that much. I think its robbery. I dont know anything at all about clutch as mine is automatic but there was a post that mentioned an excentric screw on the pedal lever to adjust travel, there is the same type screw on the brake pedal. thats all I know. I will be interested to know how you make out, Btw, a wire brush in a drill works good on the MC outside. also that odd size fitting was probably some homemade fix after it blew at some time in the past. Good Luck.
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Braking System on 1962 220 Sb-bs.jpg  
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  #50  
Old 09-06-2005, 09:16 PM
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Well - I received the master cylinder rebuild kit today in the mail, finally. Doesn't look like what I need - so I went back to his ebay description, and despite it being for a 59-65 220 S, he notes it is for the slave cylinder, which, I suspect, is the one attached to the booster. It only has one rubber disc seal, a rubber accordian type of thing, a metal clip, and a rubber cap for the bleeder. So, I guess I still need the rebuild kit for the master cylinder. Does anyone know where I can source one of those for a 15/16" bore?
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  #51  
Old 09-07-2005, 08:58 PM
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Location: Milford,NH
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rebuild Kit

I believe the slave cylinder kit is for the clutch. If you have a standard shift it should be located directly beside the master cyl on the firewall. I dont have a clutch so I dont actually know much about it. But on the bright side, I still have the 15/16 master cyl kit that I bought by mistake, I needed a one inch. and it is just sitting here. Give me an E-Mail with your mailing address and I will send it out to you free of charge. It has the piston and lip seal, The check valve a Cup seal that goes on the end of the coil spring, the big rubber bulb that goes on the back and the little washer that goes in front of the piston, but it doesnt have the coil spring you will have to re use yours. Just glad somebody can use it. E-Mail (pm4949@excite.com) or you could send private message in shop forum but alot of times I dont notice when I have one. Pat.
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  #52  
Old 09-07-2005, 10:47 PM
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Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Thanks for the assistance Pat - great help. I called the Mercedes dealership today and they didn't have the kits, but offered a new master cylinder at some crazy price ($CAD 700 = USD $550 or so).

I have sent you an email regarding the kit - thanks again for the help,
Rory
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  #53  
Old 09-08-2005, 07:56 PM
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I sent you a reply , the kit will be in the mail in the morning. Hope it doesn't take too long to get there . good luck. let me know if it works out. PAT.
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  #54  
Old 05-16-2015, 07:23 AM
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1962 Mercedes Benz 220SB brake question. Please help

I am reviving a 1962 220SB after a ten year barn slumber. The car is now running and driving well but I am stumped by a persistent brake problem.
I rebuilt the master cylinder and both rear wheel cylinders. Brakes feel great and work fine, but after car sits parked for any period of time, all of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir disappears and master cylinder reservoir is empty! Master does not appear to be leaking from the bore, and wheel cylinders are not leaking. Front calipers appear fine.
I suspect brake booster, but pedal does not feel hard, so booster appears to be working. Curiously, fluid does not appear to drain down when car is running, only when parked. If fluid was leaking into booster, wouldn't it get sucked into manifold and cause engine to smoke?
Where is all of this fluid disappearing to, and how do I fix it. Are rebuild parts available for this brake booster unit?
Thank you for your help on this problem. I appreciate it.
Chas
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  #55  
Old 05-21-2015, 04:27 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,137
Hi Chas,

I had to rebuild my brake booster on 1962 220Sb. I recall that two rubber bits needed replacing. Opening the booster and a novel situation; has a curved metal wire like piece that holds it together. I got the pieces from a guy in Dallas. Have photos on computer at home.

Welcome to the Peach Parts forum. You might want to start a new thread and introduce yourself, upload a picture of your car. The title of this thread got my attention because I have one.
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1957 Ponton 220S

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  #56  
Old 05-22-2015, 03:27 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Southold, NY
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Here's a decent tutorial on the front brakes: Mercedes-Benz Ponton Front Brake Maintenance © www.mbzponton.org
Dig around on the rest of the Ponton site for even more information about the entire system.

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