1961 220 SEb/c - Thoughts?

[goldgunner]

My dad is just about ready to sell this totally restored MB:
1961 220 SE Coupe W111 Type
VIN 111021-12-020720
Rebuilt with new parts, Less than 2,000 miles:
> 250 Engine from SE Type M129I #129.980-2-013850
> Automatic Transmission
> Front and rear suspension
> Gas tank cleaned and sealed
> Air conditioning
> New Leather upholstery
> New Wool Headliner
> 13" Wheels

And, too numerous to detail all - new in rebuild: camshaft, pistons, timing chains, bearings valve guides, oil pump, water pump, drive shaft injector pump.

Most external trim, chrome, lenses etc are new, as is the paint job.

All in all, a most excellent example, rebuilt and restored by a master mechanic of very particular taste and high standards.

I'm going to help him market this beast, so any feedback at this point is most appreciated. Obviously, with the upgrades to the engines and some other components this is not a concourse type vehicle. It is a an extremely reliable and beautiful machine, which drives like a dream.

Please let me know what you afficiandos and experts think:
> Marketable Value?
> Desireability?
> Anything?

Some pics:

[Gregg Bambo Jr.]

From the pics, it looks very nice. If it the drive train is in comparable condition you would probably be able to get between $18,000-20,000. You can't compare prices with a cabriolet which garners almost double that price.
These cars are rust prone and any rust will cause the offers to drop dramatically. What's with the switches below the air conditioner?

[goldgunner]

Thanks for the feedback.

The entire drivetrain has been either replaced or rebuilt to 'as new' condition.

The switches below the a/c are:
1. Electric Antenna
2. 'Hot Start' Rich mixture (Selenoid Switch to Relay I)
3. 'Hot Start' Fuel mixture (Closes Relay II to permit Starting Valve to 're-flow')
4. Indicator 'tell tale' light to display status for # 2 or 3 above.

More feedback - please!

[Gregg Bambo Jr.]

Goldgunner,
Thanks for the switch explanation. Since my 63 starts fine and has basically the same engine configuration, why does your car need for these addition switches?

[goldgunner]

Thanks Gregg

Very great that you have had no problems with (hot) starting in yours.

These manual hot start switches were 'an answer' to apparently what this user and 'many others' described as hot start problems.

Seems there were both some factory attempts at correcting those issues with service bulletins and associated additional hardware, as well as slightly different sensor, relay and wiring details in years following this 1961. "That's what I've heard and been told".

The switches and switch panel can be very easily removed: nothing was changed to add them. Alternatively, they could and if retained should be way dressed up in appearance before selling attempts are made.

Have you heard of ANY hot start issues in 220/250 models?

By the bye, no rust what-so-ever: only rust was typical - in the top front of the front fenders - which were replaced with new fenders.

Jim

[Gregg Bambo Jr.]

Jim,
The 220 engines had a reputation for hard starting after hot shutdowns. Those familiar with the model resolved the minor vapor lock problem with the following procedure:
Turn on the ignition and let the electric fuel pump run for 5-10 seconds, time depending on your individual car. This will purge the fuel vapor from the fuel lines. Do not pump the gas pedal on an injected engine as this will cause the injectors to spray fuel and foul the plugs! After the wait period turn the key to start and it will start.
When I first got my 220 I was unaware of and had the hot start problem and ended up getting towed to a Mercedes specialist garage. There was nothing wrong with the car other than the fact that I had complicated the vapor problem and fouled the plugs by pumping the gas trying to get it to start. The mechanic clued me in on the standard start procedure for this model. Haven't had a problem since. Gregg

[leenart]

Greg
How did you get your piping so bright?
Leonard

[SoCalw111w123]

Sweet car...

I have a 1968 beige on brown.

Your Dads car looks good with the red interior.

[Gregg Bambo Jr.]

Leonard,
I think the metal lines are either aluminum or stainless and all I did was remove them and pass them through my buffing wheel. The same with the valve cover. The radiator is brass and after removing the paint a little brass polish did the job.

[leenart]

thanks Gregg
I have to rebuild my head on the 220 seb this winter so may buff the piping. On my last 108 I buffed the valve cover and it looked great. Just got a set of injector nozzles off ebay that still have the yellow zinc chromate finish on them, look nearly new.