1971 220

[Mike D]

My experience with the tank clogging on W114/115s is the engine will stall at low speeds or when idling. But it's not that awkward to clean, the previous post on the 280, the guy managed to clean it up easily, plus on a W114/115 it just drops out under the car.Quick and dirty way to get going if the fuel pickup in the tank is blocked is to use airline to blow from the fuel pump intake line back to the tank
HTH, have a good week[/QUOTE]


If you are going to blow out the line with compressed air make sure you pull the strainer FIRST! Otherwise you are just blowing all that crud back into the catch basket and it WILL be back with a vengance because now it is all broken up into tiny little pieces. They say, if you survive it, experience is the best teacher.

[meltedpanda]

Thanks good suggestions. The donor car does have a tank but I fear not in best of shape. I am going to drop the strainer on mine, clean it and let the crap flow out of the low collection area. Really dont have idle or low torque problems so I sense the tank may be OK . I have the single stomberge, and I do fear it may be the culprit as it is original and doubt has ever been worked on.
Dog, what do you mean by sticky advance, something I can check or correct. I have new points plugs, cap and rotor and have timed it above 5 degrees in advance of what is suggested.
Polishing the intakes is a new one on me, details?
Have not yet considered new electronic ignition or other upgrades yet as money is a bit tight (for this project , anyways, if you know what I mean )
Thanks Stan for your tech info, its great to learn!
As far as paint, it is pretty well boned of everthing and may in fact do the primer and see how that goes before I tackle the finish paint. Too bad I just can brush it on, seems like someone would invent a brush on car paint!

[300SDog]

The distributor has vacuum advance and centrifugal advance mechanism - the spring loaded plates under the points. They can stick if not lightly oiled.

Polishing intake manifold ports amounts to smoothing the surface with sandpaper or wire brush on drill attachement for inside areas. Being soft alloy its easily done and improves intake flow. I did this on Triumph Spitfire long time ago and boost in power was instantly noticable.

What color are you going to paint it? You might end up brushing the inside door strips and engine bay if you change colors. I worked as housepainter for number of years, can recommend a soft oxhair bristle brush for not leaving streaks.

[meltedpanda]

I will take a look at that plate. I droped the drain plug on the tank and it was as clean as could be so I doubt I have sludge problem. I may just try to run without the pre filter to see if that helps, may try the manifold operation at a later date. As far as color , I am palnning on painting her the original blue. As he rname inplys "libby " short for "little blue" leaves me no choice

[t walgamuth]

run it without the filter.

this is a gasser right?

so only one filter. no such thing as a pre filter.

tom w

[nachi11744]

Hello,
You need to swill some gasoline or paraffin thru that tank with the drain plug off as the rubbish will cling to the sides as the tank is drained.
I would suggest going over the distributor before fiddling with the carb. The single Stromberg 220 M115 engine was known for hesitations even when new, DB must have changed the metering needle about 6 times just for the 220, all of which is not listed in the factory manuals, only in the DVG-PIERBURG-SOLEX manuals. They also had many changes on the distributor specs as well.
I still suspect an air leak, I have found that this type of carb is very sensitive to even small air leaks that would not *bother* a fixed jet carb(Solex,Weber).
I have my W115 200 and a Volvo B21 240GL with this type carb, so I have had plenty of fixing on both to get smooth idling and reasonable power/economy out of these Strombergs.
DO fill the damper shaft with 20W or ATF.
If nothing else works, take the carb off the intake and change ALL the gaskets, phenolic spacer(s) and the rubber isolator. For the isolator, use the factory part as I had a MEYLE rubber isolator fail in just 6 months on my W115 200. Phenolic spacers can and do crack after years of heat cycling.
HTH.
Have a good week.

[Tristar1959]

Okay, y'all - someone bin away fum Raleigh fer a fair piece...

"paraffin", if ah remembers raht fum mah yout' in India ("Land of dysentery and enchantment" - Kipling), is a.k.a. "kerosene" - not yer candlewax...sometimes a better solvent for gummy, tarry thingies than petrol; and rubbish is Anglish, but similar to trash, as in "stop talking rubbish!" (something my Anglic Mum seemed to say to me, frequently)

Nachi - sincerely hope you don't get to test your characterization of your 200 as "bombproof", out there in the Wild, Wild East and that the tallest twin towers stand for a long time.

Stanbabu

[meltedpanda]

Well had her out today and looked down and saw my temp gauge nearly in the red. Pulled over stopped and opened the hood and the radiator cap blew off. I was only about a quarter of a mile from home and limped in by coasting and turning engine on and off. Nearly got to the red once but only for a few seconds. After the steam cleared I noticed the belt for the water pump had broken. I should have changed it out when I was working on the engine , but it looked good, #$@%!
Anyway how and the @#@#$ do you get the belt off the power steering pump to access pulleys for the water pump. As I see it this belt has to come off in order to put the water pump belt on. I have loosened two front screws but I do not see how the thing moves. Can anyone help?
Also do you think I did any damage with the temp nearing redline for a 30- 40 seconds??
BTW the new tires are awesome, this thing handles like a dream!!
I have ruled teh tank as an issue. I am going to take the prefilter off, per suggestion, and see what happens. I also agree I may have some air leaks. This whole deal is original.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Two bolts behind the PS pulley and one on the back of the pump, probably attached to the rear PS bracket brace that goes back to the block or oil pan.
Then, unless someone previously had it apart and tossed it away, there should be a little PS belt tensioner yoke bolted to the rear of the pump, sticking through the side of the PS bracket, that loosens or tightens the belt tension with a pair of little nuts. Those require a 10 mm wrench.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[meltedpanda]

Thanks Mark, saw that bolt head back there but thought it was a pivot bolt. Will try to losen tomorrow. What do you think about the high temp. I'm stressing. I hate to have gone this far and now toasted something

[t walgamuth]

chance there is no damage. you will just have to put the new belt on and see though. the engines are pretty tough.

good luck

tom w

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

Thanks Mark, saw that bolt head back there but thought it was a pivot bolt. Will try to losen tomorrow. What do you think about the high temp. I'm stressing. I hate to have gone this far and now toasted something

PS pump doesn't pivot, but slides. Not alot of wiggle room, even if when it's completely slack, so you may still need to wrestle the PS belt off and on the pulleys.
As for the overheating, you're probably OK as long as you didn't blow the head gasket.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[meltedpanda]

What a bugger of a job Finnaly wrestled off the belt and was able to replace the broken one.
Lubed the point plates, put a little ATF in the carb unit, removed in line fuel filter, took her out and I must say that she ran better. Less hesitation and climed to speed.
Now I am having a bit of run on after ignition is shut off, timing? I am running RUL and thought that might be an issue.
Once again, suggestions on why I may be seeing this run on after key is turned off?

[t walgamuth]

is a common problem with older cars with carburators. some had fuel shutoff solinoids to prevent it. i dont know if yours has that (or ever had) or not. also if the idle speed is too high it will be worse.

it is generally caused by carbon build up in the combustion chamber. the carbon gets hot and when you turn off the ignition it runs by the carbon igniting the air fuel mix in place of the spark. if you can get the carbon out it will probably get a lot better. a good high speed trip for an hour or two will probably do it. i have added diesel or kerosene to gas ( a gal or so on a fill up). this is supposed to help burn it out.

there are other home remedies that i cant actually say work or not. but burning it out on the highway should work pretty well. again, if the car idles too high it is rough to stop the running on. this is aggrivated by worn carb shafts leaking air and also minor vac leaks.

good luck

tom w

[nachi11744]

Hello,
If you made NO other adjustments and now have running on, knock back the idle speed to 700rpm. The carb *should* have an anti-run-on solenoid sticking out underneath,same place where you would adjust the fuel mixture but I cannot be sure about US spec cars.
Be advised that fiddling with the mixture adjustment on a Stromberg CD or SU type carb changes the mixture through out the engine's operating rpms, so if you lean it out at idle, it will lean out EVERYWHERE in the rev range and probably be noticably lean at some point in the rev range due to the needle being more worn along that part of it's taper. This point is usually somewhere between 1400rpm up to maybe 3000rpm, unless the car was used for racing.
Still, check for air leaks FIRST before doing anything else.
I had an air leak at the intake ports #1 and 2 that would make the idle go haywire after running along at 70-80mph for a few minutes,plus running on.
Unfortunately,the mounting stud for the intake manifold was snapped and it turned into a three ring circus to fix that, my car having the infamous 4 cylinder A/C compressor bracket
Have a good week.