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#1
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Hunting coolant in dash...
Hi all!
I recently fixed my leaking radiator. The problem I have now is that a valve operated by the the heater levers in the interior of the dash is leaking now. I guess I have regular pressure on the system now and will find all sorts of other places green fluids will come out... Anybody done that fix? Thanks, Fritz
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'73 280 SE 4.5 '94 Miata |
#2
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Never heard of a heater valve....
being rebuilt, because the parts are probably non-existant.
So, you have 3 choices: 1. Buy new from Adistco for $780 (includes the heater core) 2. Find a (questionable) used heater core from E-Bay or junkyard. 3. Do what I did. Purchase a new $35 core from Schucks, Autozone or Pep Boys. Then install a cable operated Heater Control Valve in the engine bay. You probably don't really need the cable, simply open the Heater Control Valve in the Fall, and close it in the Spring. But now for the replacement process: Anticipate 14-16 hours to dismantle the dash, remove old core, and re-install the dash. So, to immeadiately eliminate the leak, simply re-route the heater hoses in the engine bay, thus by-passing the Heater Core. If the Blower Fan hasn't already stopped working, it will, shortly. I personally don't have a working Blower Fan, and the retrofit is too time-consuming. Wear a coat when driving the car!
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner 1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone 1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car) 1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old |
#3
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The heater valves simply contain O-Rings you can buy at a Mercedes dealer. A search for 108 heater valves should turn up the part numbers, in fact.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#4
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Tom is right, those valves are rebuildable and just need o-rings. You don't even have to remove the heater box to do it I have heard. You can use the threaded end of a spark plug (the wire end) as a puller once the screw is removed. You thread it into the hole and pull the valve stem out of the body. I read that trick in an article posted someplace.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#5
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I just used the lever itself. Rescrewed it on after removing the clip and used it to pull it ou easily enough. Mine didn't need new seals, just a good cleaning.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#6
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I did this clean-up job since my valves were completely immovable. Brilliantly, though, I discpvered that I could budge them a bit after the car was warmed thoroughly, so I pulled the first one out without draining the radiator, and that antifreeze was H-O-T Sprayed me and the guts of the dash rather nicely
Like Tom, I did not replace the gaskets but lubed with vaseline and did clean-up. Voila, heat! I used a long metric screw threaded into the core with pliers (and a wee bit of cursing) to pull it out, like the sparkplug as a handle tip. |
#7
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You guys are great, what else is there to say...
Well, so I'm sticking in my dash this week-end... I'll keep you posted. Thanks, Fritz
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'73 280 SE 4.5 '94 Miata |
#8
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Update
Well, worked out fine!
Got the O-rings from Mercedes, four rings for a whooping $20 plus... The tip using the sparkplugs to pull the valve was GREAT! It's tricky tight in there, wish I had a few more joints in my fingers and arm... Took about 3 hours, most of time spent on pulling the valves several times after replacing the rings, because I wasn't sure if I got the openings of the valve aligned correctly. Note to self: If you disassemble stuff, mark the pieces beforehand. While I was down there, I noticed the AC vapor tube is deteriorated. So, that's next. Thanks all for your input. Fritz
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'73 280 SE 4.5 '94 Miata |
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