Which Pertronix for 3.5 M116 V8?

[ADow]

I intend installing an Ignitor 1 and flamethrower coil to my 3.5 M116 V8.
The motor does not appear on the Pertronix site. Is anyone able to advise which number Ignitor is correct for this motor so I can order it.
Also, what approximately is the US dollar price for these?
Thanks
Alastair

[JMela]

Here's a US supplier:

http://www.classicgarage.com/classicgarage/parts-pertronix-ignitors-mercedes-benz.html

Looks like Pertronix's main office can be contacted at 800-827-3758. Have your Bosch dist number handy.

[billrei]

My Pertronix unit #1885 just blew up. I installed it about 6 months ago in my 3.5. I was checking the functioning of a relay and I had the ignition on for a few minutes and poof it went dead. Doing a google turned up other reports of dead units from voltage surges or prolonged ignition on. I put my Crane system back on and it runs great. I went to Pertronix because it has no external box and solid mounting of the sensor in the distributor. I'm going to send the unit back to Pertronix because it is still under warrenty and see what happens but the fact that the unit is very fragile leaves me worried.

[Tomguy]

So it sounds like the Petronix suffers from the same weakness of the original transistor box! How ironic.

[ADow]

Billrei
Did you change the coil as well when you installed your Ignitor, and if so did you remove the ballast resistors?
I intended to leave the ballast resistors unchanged and install a flamethrower with 1.5 ohms resistance.
Alastair

[nhdoc]

Hello Alastair,


I used the Pertronix flamethrower coil so as to avoid any incompatibility
issues. The instructions say you can measure the resistance and use any
coil with a given range of resistance, but frankly, the time it would take
to debug a problem was not worth it when the coil was only something like
$25. It is supposedly a higher output spark too. All I can say is the car
runs very well with the setup so for about $100 total it was a worthwhile
project.

Good luck

-Marty

[billrei]

Originally Posted by ADow

Billrei
Did you change the coil as well when you installed your Ignitor, and if so did you remove the ballast resistors?
I intended to leave the ballast resistors unchanged and install a flamethrower with 1.5 ohms resistance.
Alastair

Yes I have a MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil that puts out 45,000 volts. Similar specs to the Flamethrower. I did remove the ballast resistors because the Pertronix instructions say you can if the coil resistance is right. I put a 1 ohm resistor from a non electronic ignition system inline with the Crane system. I will leave it in if a decide to switch back to Pertronix.

[ADow]

Billrei, Marty
Thanks for these replies.
I have just ordered a Pertronix Ignitor 1 and a 1.5 OHM Flamethrower coil. Will look at the instructions and get back to you if things are not clear.
Alastair

[Hugin]

Hi

Any idea what Pertronix Ignitor I can use in my -72 280SE 4.5 ?

Tom

[Shab]

Originally Posted by Hugin

Hi

Any idea what Pertronix Ignitor I can use in my -72 280SE 4.5 ?

Tom

Call Petronix. I called them with my distributor number and engine model (M130) and left a message with tech help. They called me back within 2 hours with all the info I needed. They directed me to Jeg’s or Summit online to purchase (No vendor locally). I ended up purchasing from Jeg's, whose site seemed easier to navigate and I could go right to the parts I wanted, coil and pickup.

For those who have burned up their Ignitor ignitions by leaving the key on too long while noodling around in the driveway, the Ignitor II has an auto-protect feature that prevents that, as well as adaptive dwell for not much more money. http://www.pertronix.com/

I had the Crane optical system in my 4.5 and was very pleased with it but it’s a little more kack to deal with.

[Tony H]

I ordered a Ignitor II for my 3.5 coupe from Retro Rockets. It came with a warning not to use it with solid core ignition wires(Which most older era Mercedes have) I called Pertronics and they verified that. I returned the unit and got the Ignitor I unit. I did not wish to replace my wires and spark plugs to use the Ignitor II. I have been perfectly satidfied with the ignitor I unit.

[Arthur Dalton]

Originally Posted by Tony H

I ordered a Ignitor II for my 3.5 coupe from Retro Rockets. It came with a warning not to use it with solid core ignition wires(Which most older era Mercedes have) I called Pertronics and they verified that. I returned the unit and got the Ignitor I unit. I did not wish to replace my wires and spark plugs to use the Ignitor II. I have been perfectly satidfied with the ignitor I unit.

Some guys protect the Ignitor-1 from frying if the key is left ON by putting an in-line fuse on the Blk wir going from the module to the coil [neg side of coil]
The Ign-2 rectified the high fail rate of the Ign-1 Module by putting a thermal cut-out protection in the modules circuit.
The only time that the module will burn up is if the key is left On and the magnet is opposite the modules coil [ Hall Effect circuit]..When that happens , the coil draw is too high and constant for the modules current limit/specs.and it burns out.

[Q45Denver]

About $70 buy it now on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pertronix-electronic-ignition-MERCEDES_W0QQitemZ8065683885QQcategoryZ33691QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Shab]

I went with the original Ignitor and coil. Didn't want to outsmart myself with the brainy Ignitor II. Simple. I like the idea of a quick disconnect for those times you need the ignition on to troubleshoot and accessory and such.

[Arthur Dalton]

< >>

..Good idea . Some guys put a hidden cabin switch in-line that is ignition disable for theft reasons, so that can double as ignition disconnect when working on the car w/key must be ON situations...................

Here is an atricle on Pert failure causes pertaining to this situation:

<
**** 1. Key is left on without the engine running with a standard Ignitor. If the engine happened to stop in a position analogous to points closed, the Ignitor will continue to try to charge the coil without the coil discharging resulting in excessive heat which can fry the Ignitor. If the engine happened to stop in a position analogous to points open, the Ignitor/coil circuit would be open, no current would flow, and there would be no damage to the electronics. ***

2. A low resistance aftermarket coil is used that does not have the resistance required by the Ignitor as stated in the instructions (1.5 ohms for an 8 cyl, 3.0 ohms for 4 and 6 cyl, assuming a 12 V system). The coil resistance is what regulates the current in the Ignitor/coil circuit. Too low a resistance results in too high a current in the circuit that can overheat the electronics. The failure may not happen immediately but the excess heat will shorten the life of the electronics. How long the electronics will last will depend on how much heat is generated. It could be a matter of a couple of hours to a few hundred hours depending on temperature.

3. Polarity reversed when wiring. This will fry the electronics quickly on a standard Ignitor.

NOTE: The automatic shut-off feature in the Ignitor II prevents damage in all three cases above. >>