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  #1  
Old 02-08-2006, 07:39 PM
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question about power windows 280ce

Hi,

I have a 1978 280ce thats front passanger window will not roll down. The problem is the window swich some came unplugged. The female piece, that plugs into the swich, used to have 3 different colored wires in a black plastic box. The problem is, with out the box, I dont know which wire goes where. There are 3 wires and 4 metal rods extending from the switch.

Its kind of hard to explain, but anyhelp would be great...

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  #2  
Old 02-09-2006, 01:31 PM
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Location: Tidewater Virginia
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Correction on plug pins

looking at connector side of plug - the square plastic guide hole is THIRD, not fourth position. Overall - with wire feed cutouts to R, you should see 1st row - L & R pin holes, 2nd row - L pin hole only, 3rd row - L square locater pin hole, R pin hole; 4th row - L pin hole, R smaller dummy hole. Reviewing, the red will go in the 1st R, the black in the 2nd L, the green in the 3rd R, nothing in the 4th L.
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59 300d
65 250SE/Cpe
70 250/8
72 250C
78 280CE
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2006, 08:58 PM
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Well, I put the wires on... pressed the button and the window started to roll down, I let go of the button and the window kept rolling down. Now I cant get the window back up. I checked the fuses...maybe the switch is busted
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:30 PM
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Return path

Given the dual make-break nature of these circuits, you have to have provide a good return path - so you should keep your middle two-pin connector on while messing about with the others...if you're having difficulty moving them any direction, try pressing the center button (alternates up/down).
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stanbabu@3bubbas.com
59 300d
65 250SE/Cpe
70 250/8
72 250C
78 280CE
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:15 PM
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Location: Tidewater Virginia
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sticky used switch

Just tried one of my parts car spare switches - and its LF PHYSICALLY sticks in the "down" position about 60% of the time, not spring-returning to the neutral/mid position as it should. Given that, if your coupe is a "keeper", and if the switch turns out to be the problem, may want to consider a new switch vs used, since any used one's driver window's, like mine, may also be worn and about to quit as well. Of course, if you're not planning on keeping it long and are a betting man, price/benefit may be a factor on any used one...
Hope any attempt to test using LR switch doesn't fry a fuse - [believe they're fused LF & RR and RF & LR].
Best/simplest logic might still be to switch the BLACK and GREEN wires using the existing front switch and see if you can activate it back up (stuck or re-pressed toward "down") as soon as ignition switched back on (if stuck "on", switch ignition off as soon as it tops out, to avoid damaging drive/lifter).
Simply jumpering BLACK or GREEN to the RED probably will not work - the switch also needs to simultaneously connect the return path....
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stanbabu@3bubbas.com
59 300d
65 250SE/Cpe
70 250/8
72 250C
78 280CE

Last edited by Tristar1959; 02-13-2006 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 02-11-2006, 05:26 PM
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Location: Tidewater Virginia
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Switches up on eBay today

In case you were innerested, I was scanning W123 parts anyway, and found these used switches:
(Although they appear the same in display mode, there are four different listings below, with different item numbers included within the whole link)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4612367835&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8037989658&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8037615495&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8037615501&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
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stanbabu@3bubbas.com
59 300d
65 250SE/Cpe
70 250/8
72 250C
78 280CE

Last edited by Tristar1959; 02-13-2006 at 01:14 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-13-2006, 01:13 PM
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280CE Window Switch wiring

Confirmed test procedures, from physically eyeballing wiring to door and schematics:

Specifically, for electrical troubleshooting manual (If you have Adobe .pdf
viewer) See Wiring Diagram:

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/w123CD1/Program/ETM/78_280.pdf

Rotate view Clockwise or Counterclockwise to suit views you want (RH side
of toolbar)
Then Go to DIAGRAM 8 for windows wiring, see LF Window wiring.

A. When you select "up", It BOTH connects the Black wire to the Red (hot/+)AND the Green to ground/- .
B. When you select "dn", It BOTH connects the Green wire to the Red (hot/+)AND the Black wire to ground/- .

If you want to "jumper" wires to raise window, therefore, you need to
duplicate state "A", jumpering BOTH Black-to-Red AND Green-to-Gnd
OR
If you want to use the switch, reverse Black and Green leads, since
reversing the Black and Green leads, which go directly to a terminal board
in the door where the two motor leads join, it SHOULD run the opposite way.
BUT if the switch itself is sticking or internally connected, be prepared to switch off ignition to stop motor when the window tops out.

Per PM/email, I will mail you a connector from one of my parts cars.

Stan

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stanbabu@3bubbas.com
59 300d
65 250SE/Cpe
70 250/8
72 250C
78 280CE
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