Windshield rubber good or bad? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pxland · #1 05-03-2006, 08:57 AM

Is there a way I can tell if the windshield seal in my 108 is good enough to reuse? I got a new windshield thanks to one of the board members and I don't want to replace the seal if it doesn't really need to be replaced.

I got one small step closer to making the Benz a "normal" car. I replaced the hood cable and pull this weekend so that I no longer have to drive around with the busted end of the cable sticking out from under the back of my hood. Nor do I need pliers to get it open.

Thanks
Paul

pxland · #2 05-03-2006, 08:59 AM

Also, has anyone replaced the windshield in a 108? I've done some in my youth and think I can do it again if it works the same way. We just used some GOJO as a lubricant and wrapped some cotton twine around the seal a few times......

MercyBenz63 · #3 05-03-2006, 02:05 PM

PX land

I have done a few of these winshields. I think that replacing the seal would be the most prudent course of action. The old seal is probably too dry to accept the torture of another installation. Plus, if the seal leaks, well then all that work over again...

I use the cotton twine method and haven't broken a single winshield.

Good luck.

boneheaddoctor · #4 05-03-2006, 02:26 PM

I would never reuse one of these gaskets. The risk of an old gasket not sealing up is too great.

Tomguy · #5 05-03-2006, 02:31 PM

The last thing I'd do is even consider reusing a 30+ year-old piece of rubber.

Mine leaks. It's leaked since about 1990, but in the last 2 years, it's really gone to hell RAPIDLY. It used to be soft, now it's all cracked and split. As are my door seals, trunk seal, rear window seal, etc... Just get a new one! You'll be glad you spent the money when it doesnt leak in a year.

rs899 · #6 05-03-2006, 02:39 PM

GOJO?? That's an interesting lubricant. Slicker than snot on a doorknob...but what will it do to the rubber or paintwork?

What is it made from? Does it go away...peacefully?

Rick

Mike D · #7 05-03-2006, 03:21 PM

Gojo is the greatest stuff for removing grease stains from the fenders when you forget to use a fender apron, you know, like we all do " because this will only take a minute and I won't set that wrench down THIS time".

The bad thing about using it in the interior is you don't want to use it in direct sunlight. It goes to liquid almost immediately and runs down into all the little cracks and crannies.

pxland · #8 05-04-2006, 06:30 AM

I see and understand that it is prudent to get a new seal.

Anything else I need to know for the job?

Thanks for all of the advice.

Paul

boneheaddoctor · #9 05-04-2006, 08:51 AM

Well having done my truck which uses the same system. soapy water to lube...a length of cord to help pull it though (place it in the grove of the rubber...an old screwdriver that has been cround to round off all sharp edges and points in case it gets tight. A second set of hands and most of all lots of patience. You don't want to succumb to the urge to force it.

alabbasi · #10 05-04-2006, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pxland

Also, has anyone replaced the windshield in a 108? I've done some in my youth and think I can do it again if it works the same way. We just used some GOJO as a lubricant and wrapped some cotton twine around the seal a few times......

Replacing these rubbers is a lot of hard work, when I restored mine, the only thing that the body guys renegotiated was the rubbers as they were so hard to install. From what I understand from speaking to people in the M-100 circles, it's best to go for the genuine items and avoid the aftermarket rubber as the genuine parts fit better.

Tristar1959 · #11 05-09-2006, 02:46 PM

Some tricks which may help avoid cracking your glass whilst trying to remove it from the brittle(r) old gasket and hard cement is:

After extracting any chrome strips (and A LITTLE BIT of silicone lubricant may help with that in the channels, as well, but try to keep it off your glass)

a. Use a sharp boxcutter (the disposable plastic retractable types with the snap-off blades work fine - nice and long and flexible) to run ALONG the glass on the outside, between the glass and gasket, cutting through to the slot/channel which held the chrome strips. [If you want, use a little bit of dishwashing detergent soapy solution to add lubrication and avoid any scratches - but keep arteries clear of and out of line of the blade if it slips...

] Also, do not use silicone as a lubricant, here -

b. Remove the cut-off outer strip so that you can see the old cement/sealant and clean that down until you can see the glass's outer edges - [soapy solution and a single-edge razorblade scraper may work best.]

c. GENTLY run the tip of the cutting blade approx 1/4" deep around the edges, perpendicular to the glass surface, to cut cement along that edge, as well, but try to not catch/chip the glass edge, which would make a "fault" for cracks to start...

d. Take the boxcutter, with blade extended a ways out (to take advantage of the flex), and run it along the entire INNER glass/gasket boundary to loosen that sealant line, as well.
The glass should have nearly fallen out, by now...

e. Use the scraper to clean all the old cement/sealant off the glass - but again, be careful not to scratch/chip edges - work blades "off" the glass, not "into" it...

f. Thoroughly wash off any silicone residue, as well as watery soap solution.
You want to keep it dry for safer handling until you're ready to apply soap solution, goop, or whatever lube you select for installation.

g. Finally, once the glass is out and the gasket remnants pulled out of the shell, use the old inner portion of the gasket to protect the edges of the glass until it's ready to reinstall (strips of masking tape will hold it in place nicely)

The string method still works fine.

Happy replacement, without any nasty (cracking) noises....

Stan

pxland · #12 05-10-2006, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tristar1959

Some tricks which may help avoid cracking your glass whilst trying to remove it from the brittle(r) old gasket and hard cement is:

After extracting any chrome strips (and A LITTLE BIT of silicone lubricant may help with that in the channels, as well, but try to keep it off your glass)

a. Use a sharp boxcutter (the disposable plastic retractable types with the snap-off blades work fine - nice and long and flexible) to run ALONG the glass on the outside, between the glass and gasket, cutting through to the slot/channel which held the chrome strips. [If you want, use a little bit of dishwashing detergent soapy solution to add lubrication and avoid any scratches - but keep arteries clear of and out of line of the blade if it slips...

] Also, do not use silicone as a lubricant, here -

b. Remove the cut-off outer strip so that you can see the old cement/sealant and clean that down until you can see the glass's outer edges - [soapy solution and a single-edge razorblade scraper may work best.]

c. GENTLY run the tip of the cutting blade approx 1/4" deep around the edges, perpendicular to the glass surface, to cut cement along that edge, as well, but try to not catch/chip the glass edge, which would make a "fault" for cracks to start...

d. Take the boxcutter, with blade extended a ways out (to take advantage of the flex), and run it along the entire INNER glass/gasket boundary to loosen that sealant line, as well.
The glass should have nearly fallen out, by now...

e. Use the scraper to clean all the old cement/sealant off the glass - but again, be careful not to scratch/chip edges - work blades "off" the glass, not "into" it...

f. Thoroughly wash off any silicone residue, as well as watery soap solution.
You want to keep it dry for safer handling until you're ready to apply soap solution, goop, or whatever lube you select for installation.

g. Finally, once the glass is out and the gasket remnants pulled out of the shell, use the old inner portion of the gasket to protect the edges of the glass until it's ready to reinstall (strips of masking tape will hold it in place nicely)

The string method still works fine.

Happy replacement, without any nasty (cracking) noises....

Stan

Thanks for great advice. I was thinking about just breaking the old one out of there as it is cracked all to hell. This method sounds a lot cleaner.....

Tristar1959 · #13 05-10-2006, 08:26 PM

Well, it might be "cleaner", yes - and perhaps miss a couple of sharp chips embedded in your (or your car's) seat...
I wish I'd known this when I tried to remove a wraparound windshield from a 108, decades ago, when I cracked a perfectly good one...something about pushing unevenly in the middle with both feet whilst the edges were imprisoned by a brittle, hard old gasket....

To credit where due - I recently learned the above ideas from a tech at Smiley's Auto Glass in Richmond, (where the local MB dealer sends their work)...and who changed out the gasket on my daughter's W123 280CE windshield, which even had a stone star repair, and didn't break it. Love 'em!

Stan