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Old 06-01-2006, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2
Need advice...??

I recently had a rebuilt head installed on my 82 - 300CD and wondered if the head requires re-torque-ing after running a few hundred miles. The installer says it doesn't as its a iron head. Dad always told me heads needed to be re-torqued after a run-in period.

Also, a steamed up windshield indicates my heater core is leaking. Being summer, I'd rather go fishing than spend it digging down for the leaky core. Is it possible to bypass or cap off the heater core from the coolant loop w/o serious consequences..??

With thx.. Biffer
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:14 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 32,675
you used to have to retorque. most of the newer head gasket materials dont require it. i would check with the mfgr recommendations (of the gasket). of course it wouldnt hurt anything, and you might need some qt with dad!

on the heater, a bypass loop of come kind shouldnt hurt anything.

have you tried shutting the heater off?

tom w
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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Old 06-02-2006, 04:03 AM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
Hose and pipe combo that runs along the manifold side feeds the heater core, usually starts at/near the thermostat housing. Then there's another hose from the firewall to cyl head that returns flow to the engine. Thats your bypass route.

And if it was me i wouldnt retorque the head for fear of breeching the seal of a head gasket thats already been crushed to specs and set. Whats the torque specs on the 300D cyl head anyhow.... somewhere around a whopping 76 lbs??
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