Headlights - Euro vs. Euro Stacked?

[Diorist]

I have a 220b with the single-lens Euro headlights (w/ integrated turn signal) and I have a chance to buy a good set of stacked Euro lights (like the American stacked lights, but with the orange signal pane and not sealed beams -- or so I understand from older postings here). Before I buy, are there any drawbacks to the stacked Euro lights? Specifically...

1. Would I need a different wiring harness?
2. Could I still get bulbs for them?
3. Any other drawbacks or considerations?

I'm a relatively new owner and don't have a lot of technical knowledge, but I'm learning a lot here. Any advice you could give would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Bounce

[Mark DiSilvestro]

I can only relate my experience in converting my '60 220S Fintail from stacked sealed beams to the single 'bubble' glass Euros. My original, early sealed beam units had the parking-lamp/turn signals in the plastic 'wedge' lenses on the headlight chrome. (Later USA Fintails had separate 'bullet' turn signals mounted near the grill) My stacked sealed beams also had an adapter cable with two plugs to connect the single Fintail headlamp harness plug to the dual sealed beams. Make sure your stacked Euros come with this adapter.
My swap was straigtforward, mounting with the same screws as the stacked unit, and connecting to the same harnesses.

If the stacked Euros use H4 bulbs, they will be easier to find than the original bilux bulbs used in the 'bubble' Euros.
(I fabricated adapters to fit H4 bulbs into my Euros)
And if you break a headlamp lense, 5-inch non sealed-beam aftermarket headlamps are/were widely sold in the US (though usually with a "for off-road use only" disclaimer) so replacements should be cheaper and easier to find than those for the 'bubbles'.

Aside from the fact that I prefer the look of the 'bubble' Euros, my only reservation about converting to stacked is that you would lose the built-in foglamps in the 'bubbles'.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[Arthur Dalton]

Why would anyone who has the one piece Euros ever want to get rid of them.??? They have great optics and city lights. Plus the fogs.........

Mark,
You can now get drop-in H4 halogens with the bi-lux P45t base. They are $7 ea.

Narva #48884 -12v -60/55 -P45t base -Halogen

Big improvement for short$$$

[Diorist]

Mark: great answer. Thanks!

The choice to switch in stacked Euros would be chiefly aesthetic. But, ideally, I'd like to be able to easily revert to the bubbles. Based on Mark's answer, I seems I could.

As a follow up to Arthur's comment, a mechanic told me the stacked lights were better for driving on hilly roads. Better vertical range, he said. Was that just hot air?

Thanks again.
Bounce

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton

Why would anyone who has the one piece Euros ever want to get rid of them.??? They have great optics and city lights. Plus the fogs.........

Mark,
You can now get drop-in H4 halogens with the bi-lux P45t base. They are $7 ea.

Narva #48884 -12v -60/55 -P45t base -Halogen

Big improvement for short$$$

Thanks for the info and part number.
Previously someone posted about those H4/bilux bulbs, but I'm not sure if anyone in the Washington DC area stocks them.

For now, I'm actually running a pair of H4s, with the OE bilux bases, in my 'good' Euros. A friend, who frequently travels to Germany, got them for me at no charge. I have an extra pair of 'parts' Euros that are my test lamps for experimenting, hence fabricating the H4 adapters. I also adapted a pair of VW headlight buckets, to be able to fit a 7" halogen sealed beam, or non sealed-beam, behind the bubble glass in my Euros, in case my original Bosch reflectors become hopelessly corroded.
This gives me additional choices in replacement headlights or bulbs that are easily availible from my local autoparts stores.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[Arthur Dalton]

It was prob a post from me .

They are actually close to you.

CandlePower
Southlawn Lane
Rockville , Md.

1-800-368-2700

They mailed them out to me next day..cheap.

I used to dremel the bases off the bilux and it worked out, but the focal points on the new ones is better..If you have the bilux heat shields , dump them b/c the new H4s have them built-in to the lamps..

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Arthur,
Thanks again for the part number and supplier's address. I'll write it down this time.
Would you also happen to know the part number for the OE Euro foglamp bulb? It's an oversize bayonet base yellow bulb. My friend also brought me a pair of them from Germany, but he was only able to find clear ones. (maybe I can tint those)

Happy Motoring, Mark

[Arthur Dalton]

Never been able to find them in yellow or amber.

Hella 8GA 002 083 131
These are Ba20s base /35w lamps [ F2 type].

I was told that NAPA has a yellow replacement in a Syl , but I never checked...

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Except for those later USA Fintails that have the bullet turn signals mounted beside the grill, swapping between the Euro and stacked headlight units should normally be a staightforward 'plug & play' process. Those of you with well maintained and garaged Fintails shouldn't have any problems, but 'Miss Daisy', my '60 220S has survived a hard life as an outdoor car for many years.
In my case, there were additional problems changing the right headlight assembly. The headlight units are normally attached to the fenders with machine screws and anchors that resemble large threaded pop-rivets.
The original headlight mounting screws and anchors in my right fender had corroded, seized and stripped. Two were missing and the remaining two had broken loose inside the fender and were now spinning freely, preventing removal of the remaining two corroded screws. Some 'mechanic' had also drilled extra holes to secure the stacked headlamp with additional sheet metal screws. I had to go behind the fender with vise-grips to grab the remains of the original screw anchors before I could remove what was left of the headlamp screws. Then I installed plates behind the holes, in place of the now-destroyed threaded anchors, to give something for the new headlamp mounting screws to 'bite' into.
Of course I did keep my original stacked sealed beam units just in case, so now any future headlight swap should be 'plug & play'.
(And the Euro bulb replacement info is now safe in Miss Daisy's glovebox - thanks again Arthur)

Happy Motoring, Mark