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  #1  
Old 07-24-2006, 09:35 AM
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'72 280SE w108 - Rear Door Stuck

I have a 108 sitting at the body shop with a stuck rear door. The guy at the shop has given up on trying to open it. I tried opening it as well, but we were both reluctant to use too much force.

I'm pretty sure that it is a case of dried up grease or rust on the latch. The locks all work, the latches inside and outside work.

With the door closed, you cannot remove the door panel. But, the link below mentions that you may be able to remove the trim right below the window and then spray some sort of lubricant on the latch (or otherwise get direct access to the latch to pry it open).

Any help would be much appreciated. If I can't get this thing opened then they will have to remove the door by force

280SEL door will not open280SEL door will not open

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  #2  
Old 07-24-2006, 02:15 PM
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3 step simultaneous process I'd recommend: Get inside the car and brace your foot applying strong pressure to kick open the door, then try snapping the unlock mechanism up briskly while pulling the latch firmly fraction of a second later with your other hand. All you should need is one lucky shot. Could be a locking rod that aint quite releasing, central locking mechanism? Or more likely something sticky at the catch plate aint letting go.
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:49 PM
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Just for fun I tried to get open the rear door of my parts car that had an outside door latch that had been broken off. An hour later, a bent crow bar and a lot of sledge hammer action, I got her open, I was amazed at how well it stayed closed despite my attemps to open. I did actually do it but I trashed the door. I hope what dog tells you to do works
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:17 PM
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hey, when I bought my 108 in 12/03 I discovered it too was a "3-door" instead of four!! Although the PO disavowed knowedge of this fact, I later deduced that the slight crack in the top plastic door trim occurred from someone trying to dismantle the pieces while the door was stuck.

As amazing as it sounds, mine finally yielded to a major body thrust from inside while holding the handle open. The way the striker arrangement works, with a cone-type piece inside another unit, really permits a door unopened for a while to seize up. I may have eventually worked some spray lube (PB Blaster) into the area too before the burst of manpower popped it open. I know it feels like it's welded shut, right? Look at your other doors to see what I mean about the cone striker arrangement. Dog's kicking proposal should work too but a foot may be more likely to cause a dent than a well padded shoulder. Your point of attack should be as close to the striker arrangement as possible. Good luck.
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:47 PM
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Thanks all, much appreciated. I will go another round with the brute force method, this time from the inside and pulling the handle at the same time. Updates when they happen...
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  #6  
Old 07-24-2006, 06:58 PM
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Yeah let us know how it works out - maybe try a 2 man operation with the wife pulling on the handle with thumb on the button while you body slam the door from inside kpb style.
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Old 07-24-2006, 07:59 PM
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Sounds like a good way to give the wife a shiner!

Have you thought of removing the bench of the rear seat for clearance to get the door panel off?
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:11 PM
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As I recall, I tried the cushion removal and found no benefit, thus, the body slam method.
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Old 07-24-2006, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpb
As I recall, I tried the cushion removal and found no benefit, thus, the body slam method.
Yep - the guy at the body shop said that there isn't any way to remove the door panel with the door closed.

But, I was wondering if that piece of leather trim right underneath the window will come off and give you some sort of access to the locking mechanism.
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  #10  
Old 07-25-2006, 11:55 AM
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Thanks Diesel Dog and KPB!! I went to the body shop this morning and tried the "kick & pull" method with one of the techs. Popped open on the first attempt. Sweet! You guys saved me a lot of time and money. Thanks!
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  #11  
Old 07-25-2006, 04:41 PM
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great job, sure beats the mess I made, fortuntely for me it was the parts car!
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2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2006, 08:59 PM
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YAHOO -- The combined experience of THE forum comes through again
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2006, 09:35 PM
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Now that you have the door open, try, if you can with a #3 Phillips head screw driver, remove the latch mechanism. Once you have it out of the car,(best) in-situ (ok), spray 1/2 - 1 can of carb. cleaner to remove all crap and dried grease. Stop every so often to work the latch mechanism and continue. Once it is clean lube it with Lithium grease spray.

I've also done the pull and kick maneuver, it's the only way to get the door open...

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