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#2
07-31-2006, 01:30 PM
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Joe:
The AAVs are a bit pricey, look them up in the parts section of this site. Before buying one, you might look over this information: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/AAV.html It is a pretty good tutorial on AAVs and how the can be repaired by the weekend handyman. 230/8 
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#5
08-01-2006, 08:37 PM
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attempting to post a pic...
It sits vertical and is mounted at the fwd part of the intake manifold.
Has two black rubber hoses connected to it (approx 3/4" od) Any resemblence to an active auction pic on a popular auction site is purely coincidental on my behalf....
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#6
08-01-2006, 11:31 PM
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Lee,
If your car has the mechanical fuel injection, which was fitted starting in '76, you have the valve he needs. I just replaced mine as my idle went through the roof when it stopped closing all the way. It sits in the front on the intake with two 1" hoses to and from. Right next to the idle speed screw. Coolant will leak out as it driven by engine temp. Joey, I tried to fix mine but I think the magic fluid leaked out, it moved OK but not far enough to close. You can use a fuel line pinch off tool, looks like a U bolt with only one nut, to close off the hose after the valve to slow the engine down. The down side is slow idle with a cold engine. Michael
__________________
Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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#7
08-02-2006, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Nate
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#8
08-02-2006, 11:34 AM
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Joe:
Have you tried to clean it with spray cleaner? This has helped in some cases. The AAV on my SL was a bit sticky. I did not even clean it...simply added a whopping dose of Techron to the gas to clean the main injectors. As a side benefit it relieved the sticking AAV. The AAV gets a shot of fuel across it when the cold start system kicks in...loading the fuel with Techron appears to have removed enough of the crud that the AAV can move again. Two bucks for spray cleaner might save you a few bucks for parts. FWIW, 230/8
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#9
08-02-2006, 06:30 PM
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I'd try this: With the engine running, spray a small amount of carb cleaner into it at a time, followed by some silicone, and lastly, a small tap or two with a hammer if those fail, before dooming the valve. It will probably stall if you remove a hose to do this, so give it a small amount of throttle in the process if needed.
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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#10
08-03-2006, 07:22 AM
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I probable Have one
JoeyB,
I would need to take it off of the manifold and look at it. You are right when you said they are a bit expensive (new $375). It was working fine when my car was running. I will let you know when I get it off the intake and inspect it. Lee
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#11
08-04-2006, 04:29 PM
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Install a manual choke....
Check this guy out - he installed an old school manual choke....
http://bernardembden.com/xjs/idle/index.htm Z - you can test by dropping in a pot of boiling water (like testing a thermostat). If the piston moves, it's good. Sun Valley Dismantlers has some used for $50..... They said try applying heat before calling it quits....
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#12
09-04-2006, 12:08 PM
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Hey, I just read your post, let me know if you still need this, I just got a 4.5 in for parts.
-Kevin kc29349@aol.com
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Over 21 years I owned several: w108 w110 w111 w115 w116 w123 w124 w126 w212
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