W114 oil pressure gauge

[230/8]

Tony:

You have not mentioned the mileage on your engine, but, regardless, if you are convinced of the need to remove the head then I would recommend doing the usual top-end overhaul: valve guides, chain, chain rails, tensioner, valve grind, and oil seals. Your seats should not need to be replaced unless very badly burned/eroded. They are hard steel seats and quite durable in most instances. A small bit of grinding should clean them up top notch.

Once you have the engine open you can assess the condition of the cylinder walls. The 230s are tough critters so unless something has gone astray with the innards and left behind some visible evidence of damage your top-end overhaul should put you right for many miles.

Did you ever get your fuel issues resolved?

Cheers,

230/8

[tc20]

230/8 thanks for that info.
Mileage on the car is unknown, tho i reckon its gone round a few times.
It has a 5 digit km clock, so thats only 60k miles. Didnt get any records
with the car, so kinda hard to nail it down.
The guy who normally looks after my car is semi-retired english guy, who
specialises in older cars, moreso Saab and 2CVs. The way it works is i source
the patrs, and he fits 'em. He's good, does good work, is local, and is reasonable. The head job wouldnt be a problem for him, but im thinking to go
with the top-end overhaul you suggest, could mean the car is off the road longer than i want it to be. (im driving my dads FIAT Cinquecento as cover- i know, ive no motoring shame )
My option is to have the work done by a very well respected engineering firm in the north (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedesrestoration.co.uk tho im sure their work comes at a cost.
Havent addressed the fuel issues, will do the lot in one.
Will keep you up to date

Cheers,
tony

[t walgamuth]

so i am wondering what tests you have done to determine that the head gasket needs changing?

a little oil leaking would not be enough for me to change one unless it was severe.

and i would never just change parts like valve guides unless it were determined that they are worn beyond normal service limits.

and a diaphram fuel pump could be the source of the fuel leak in addition to the hoses so before changing them out i would locate the source of the leak for sure.

as for location of the fuel filter, i would stick with the stock location. if there are no leaks it should not be any problem.

although on many older cars with the more volitile modern fuel, vapor lock is a problem and auxiliary electric fuel pumps back by the tank will work wonders. i have never done this on an old benz but on my old caddies it was essential for reliable operation.

i dont think there is anything wrong with your oil pressure guage. did you just change the oil? if so the new oil may account for the change in oil pressure readings.

good luck

tom w

[tc20]

Tom,
i called up to Steve yesterday after work and explained to him my concerns.
At once he reassured me that we dont need to just pull the head off and look for trouble. He's gonna do a 'leak test', (he said very few mechs do this nowadays), and explained to me it involves testing each cyl individually- this will determine if we have inlet or exhaust valve problems, amongst other things. I was going to get the windscreen seal and two front door seals replaced anyway (hopefully there wont be too much corrosion under there)
and also get the fuel issues sorted. Hopefully i'll have the parts in about a week or so, then we can get cracking. I'll keep you up to date.

edit - would i be right in saying this model has the mechanical fuel pump,
as opposed to the electrical version?
Cheers,
Tony

[t walgamuth]

it should be mechanical if it has carbs.

sounds like you are doing fine.

tom w