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#1
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Any other Ideas?
I've already checked the CSV as well as the WRD although when I opened up, and cleaned the WRD, I still heard suction in the air filter. Are there any other ways to alleviate that?
Also, any other tests to check for rich running? Thank you. |
#2
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Plug and tailpipe color.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Quote:
Until you get this device to close intake air off at temp, you can not make any MFI adjustments. If all parts are free , check that someone has not installed the air slide upside down.. I have seen that happen on occasion.. http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/ja17/200662802329_20046281523_InjPumpWarmUpDeviceParts_1.jpg Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 10-02-2006 at 09:04 PM. |
#4
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Yes, those are black, and the plugs were sooty.
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#5
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Quote:
Also I couldn't get the air valve, and plunger out of its housing but it seemed to go up, and down smoothly enough. |
#6
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You said you tested the thermo bulb.. How many mm did it protrude??????
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#7
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I put it in a glass of hot water, and it protruded about 3/4mm.
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#8
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Should move 3 mm from 20C to 80C.
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#9
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I'll try testing that again; do the termostats commonly fault?
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#10
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No , the WRD tends to wear on the links in the pump and can be corrected by removing the WRD shims, but I am not going to have you remove the shims until you know if the pin on the thermo is protruding the correct amount b/c that would be the correct remedy to your problem. Removal of the shims is to make up for link/pin wear , but that is done ONLY when one knows the actuating pin is working correctly..horse before the cart
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