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  #1  
Old 11-01-2006, 10:25 PM
Datsun Guy
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: East Bay, California
Posts: 70
1973 280sel 4.5: instrument lights

I am a new owner of a 1973 mercedes benz 280sel with the 4.5l V8, and one of the problems is that when i turn the lights on, everything works except for the instrument lights. I replaced the #1 fuse, The clock itself still works, and the temp gauge works as well, the lights behind them just don't turn on. Everything else besides those instrument lights seems to work just fine. The turn signal blinkers work and flash correctly, as does the blue light when the brights are on. While im at it, can someone tell me how to work the light switch??? I can turn 2 clicks to the left, turning on all the lights. Or I can turn it to the left 2 clicks which seems to only turn on specific lights. Then I can pull the switch out 2 clicks (???) I'm not sure what all these do. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Sam

By the way, my neighbor GAVE this car to me, hoping that I would restore it as well as I restored my 71 Datsun 510



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  #2  
Old 11-01-2006, 10:49 PM
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Location: Western Washington
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Quauntum Theory states...

that we can't predict the outcome of an event, only its' probability.

Any chance that all the 2 watt bulbs are burned out and/or have come loose?
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2006, 10:52 PM
Datsun Guy
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: East Bay, California
Posts: 70
I don't think so...

I would SEVERELY doubt that all the lights would one at a time burn out. That's like a one in a million chance.
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2006, 11:04 PM
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That's what Quantum Theory...

is all about. Anyhow, it is easy to check, just pull the instrument cluster (not too far)
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2006, 01:24 AM
MikeTangas's Avatar
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Very possible the potentiometer (rheostat) for the dimmer has corroded. Try working the knob left & right a bunch of times rapidly. That will usually clean the coil to make sufficient contact.

As for the light switch. As noted, two clicks right turns on all lights. With the knob handle at 12 o'clock the lights are off. One click left turns on the right sidemarkers and two clicks turns on the left (or vice versa). The positions to the left only activate when the key is off. Those are the standing/parking lights for the narrow Euro streets, the idea is to leave the car illuminated when parked. The bulbs hardly draw any power and you could leave them on all night without problem.

The two clicks you feel when pulling out the knob are for the fog lights. The first click should activate the front fogs and teh sencond will activate the rear fogs if so equipped.
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'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

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  #6  
Old 11-02-2006, 03:03 AM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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Location: central ky
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To hell with quantum theory - its ALWAYS the dimmer switch. How many people here seen a fully functional dimmer switch on any Vintage MB they've ever owned?

Everybody's been happy with whatever light they get in the instruments for thousands of years. Just twist the little dial knob until you find the point where the guages light up. Dimmer switches on these cars never work from bright to dim. And they rarely die entirely.
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'80 300SD/ w116
'79 240D 4-spd
'71 750cc Guzzi

previously owned:

'83 240D 4-spd
'77 280SEL 4-spd
'74 280/8
'72 250/8
'65 220Sb 4-spd
'63 220Sb 4-spd
'63 190c 4-spd
'61 220Sb 4-spd
'60 190b 4-spd
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2006, 10:19 PM
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Be aware that this speedo cluster does NOT just pull out like some later MB's! There is a cross brace behind the cluster with a knurled nut on it that must be unthreaded from the stud on the cross brace! This nut is almost directly behind the clock behind the dash. I owned a twin to this car and almost damaged my dash trying to simply pull out the cluster. I found it easier to gain access to this knurled nut by dropping down the parking brake lever to enable my hand to reach this knob. I also agree with the above poster regarding finding the "sweet spot" on the dash light reostat. Sometimes just nudging the knob ever so slightly will restore illumination. Most MB's of this age will have worn the reostat to were you will either have no illumination or full bright if you want to call it that! Be aware also that the oil gauge is mechanical, meaning there is tubing filled with engine oil running to the back of the oil gauge. Be gentle if you elect to remove the cluster!
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2006, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTangas View Post
The bulbs hardly draw any power and you could leave them on all night without problem.
Only true really with the euro headlights and older tail assemblies. The ones on a 73 4.5 would use about double a trunk light's power which drained my battery when left on for 24 hours.

As for not working from bright to dim, they would if you cleaned the potentiometer - for about 3-6 months. Then corrosion makes them screwy again.
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Current:
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Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
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  #9  
Old 04-19-2010, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTangas View Post
Very possible the potentiometer (rheostat) for the dimmer has corroded. Try working the knob left & right a bunch of times rapidly. That will usually clean the coil to make sufficient contact.

As for the light switch. As noted, two clicks right turns on all lights. With the knob handle at 12 o'clock the lights are off. One click left turns on the right sidemarkers and two clicks turns on the left (or vice versa). The positions to the left only activate when the key is off. Those are the standing/parking lights for the narrow Euro streets, the idea is to leave the car illuminated when parked. The bulbs hardly draw any power and you could leave them on all night without problem.

The two clicks you feel when pulling out the knob are for the fog lights. The first click should activate the front fogs and teh sencond will activate the rear fogs if so equipped
.
My question is this...what's the difference between pulling this switch out and the lights that come on when you turn it from 12 o'clock position to the right one notch? Those, for me, turn on the fog lights.
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  #10  
Old 04-25-2010, 08:09 AM
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Do they turn on the actual fog lights, or do they turn on the US Amber marking lamps? Pulling the switch out would activate the actual fog lamps like shown in this pic:
http://mercedesw108w109.com/img/cars/unknown-300sel.jpg

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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