Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Vintage Mercedes Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-05-2007, 11:56 AM
aircap's Avatar
Clueless Noob
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: I live in Wichita, Kansas USA -- Air Capital of the World.
Posts: 133
Question Electrical Gremlin ('68 220)

Hey again:

The other day I came out in the morning to drive the Benz, and when I turned the ignition key to the "on" position, I got nothing. No idiot lights, no juice at all. I think I may have accidentally left the headlight switched turned to one of the weirdo "parking light" settings by mistake (though I'm not even sure of that...I think I would have noticed when I was outside the night before messing around with the car).

Anyway, I connected it via jumper cables to another car, but even then (at first), there was nothing. After I futzed around with the cable connections, making sure they were really tight, the idiot lights blazed. Then I tried to start it and CLICK. The idiot lights went out again, even though the car was still hooked to another car's battery.

I got out and jiggled the cable connections around some more, looked back at the dash and once again the lights were on. This time it started right up, as though the battery hadn't been low at all.

Later the same day, after I drove around a long time to make sure the battery was up, the car did the same thing again. This time I just went straight to the battery cables, and the car started right up.

I thought, "Well, maybe the battery was still just a little bit low." Since then (that was Tuesday) it's been fine.

Until this morning! I started the car just fine and dandy in my driveway, but after stopping at a convenience store on the way to work, it did the same thing once again...and again, after jacking around at the battery connections a couple times, it started right up.

So...I guess now that I'm telling this story, it's starting to seem more obvious to me that I should at least totally clean (and at best replace) the battery cables. Anything else I should inspect while I'm doing that? Things I should look out for? Special weirdnesses associated with MB cables? I'm a clueless noob to the marque, and appreciate any guidance you more experienced folks can provide.

Thanks...
MC

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-05-2007, 02:13 PM
carnut's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Stockton California
Posts: 637
Yes, clean and/or replace cables. By cleaning I mean remove and clean and reinstall. Then charge the battery overnight on a slow charge. Simply jump starting then driving will not always recharge a battery. Driving will provide a "surface" charge in the battery. How old is the battery? 3 to 4 years old and being severly discharged could cause early failure of the battery.
__________________
81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-05-2007, 04:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 758
MC:

Go to the Autozone, or NAPA, and get yourself a battery terminal brush, the kind the cleans the post and inside the cable terminal end. Clean the bejabbers of both + and - terminals and posts. Re-attach and then remove the chassis end of the ground cable where it is attached below the battery tray and clean it.

Once you have done that go to the opposite side of the engine and locate the engine ground strap. It should be located near the firewall and attached from the block to the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable and the surfaces on the block and chassis. If you are still feeling frisky after all that, disconnect the battery ground again and chase down the positive end of the battery cable where it attaches to the starter. Clean that end of the cable and the terminal on the starter.

Reattach all the terminals, slow charge the battery (there is a good cheap solid state unit out at WallyWorld, the Schumacher brand, no, not Michael, for only $18) and you should be good to go. If you really flattened out the battery you may need to use a regular boost charger to get the battery to begin taking a charge. These are available from Sears/CSK/Autozone/NAPA in the $100 range and will last forever. They may even loan you one. Hit the battery with about 5 minutes of charge on the 12V boost setting then switch over to the 12V slow setting until the charge rate falls to less than 4-5 amps. Usually the timers will only allow 90 to 120 minutes of charge time, which should be enough bring a good battery back from the dead using fast charge; slow charge may take longer. If you buy the little cheap charger just put it on overnight...it has a regulator so you cannot overcharge the battery.

Worst case is you need a new battery, best case is no more trouble from your existing equipment.

230/8
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-05-2007, 05:16 PM
aircap's Avatar
Clueless Noob
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: I live in Wichita, Kansas USA -- Air Capital of the World.
Posts: 133
I'm not even sure the battery was ever low now...but I'll definitely clean the dickens out of all the pertinent connections this weekend, and throw the battery on the charger as well. (I have a good charger already.)

Thanks for the $.02, everybody. If I continue having weirdness, you know I'll share with the group.
__________________
Carmody
Wichita, Kansas USA
Air Capital of the World


1968 220 (my first MB!)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-05-2007, 06:02 PM
250 Coupe's Avatar
Middle Aged Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Des Moines, WA
Posts: 927
If cleaning the posts and charging the battery don't help, replace the cables.

The copper can rot inside the lead clamp and look fine and resist a good pull but won't conduct well enough to handle the high current at start up.

Also, it might be a good idea to watch the battery posts as you tug on the cables. If a post looks like it turns a bit, the battery has failed internally and needs replacing.


Michael
__________________
Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-06-2007, 09:33 AM
michaeld's Avatar
German dogs prefer Benzes
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Palm Springs, CA
Posts: 159
Most electrical gremlin issues result from a bad ground.

You might have bad wiring either from the battery to the starter, OR from the starter to the ignition.

Now, this doesn't deal with the sentence immediately above, but one thing that one can do OVERALL to restore the best possible ground is to make sure that one has a good ground strap from the engine block to the frame, and then to wire a large wire connecting the engine (I just chose a spot on the cylinder head) to the firewall. I also have two ground cables on my car; one from the neg bat to the frame, and one from the neg bat to the alternator.

As these cars age, rust and old, calcified wiring reduces the return path and cause increased resistance.
__________________
Love driving my '77 450 SEL!
124,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-06-2007, 11:08 AM
Tomguy's Avatar
Vintage Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
Posts: 5,407
I've had this happen so many times, what you are describing is a corroded battery connection. Either where the terminal connects to the battery, or the wire connects to the terminal as Michael #1 suggested. If this does happen on a fully charged battery eventually it will go dead - because it's not actually charging enough through those poor connections! Seen that, too.

Ah, the joys of having a tractor that was constantly exposed to harsh conditions. The battery connections got so corroded I needed to clean them biweekly.

Edit: as for chargers, picked up one of these babies on clearance for $60 about 6-7 years ago, haven't looked back:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Batteries+%26+Chargers&pid=02871230000&vertical=AUTO&subcat=Battery+Chargers+%26+Boosters&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Last edited by Tomguy; 01-06-2007 at 11:18 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-06-2007, 11:29 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
also check your ground connections. this would include the mounting place where the negative cable attaches to the chassis and the strap that connects the motor to the chassis.

good luck

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page