need to install rear coil spring shim for a 114.011 72 250

I'm putting new rear coil springs into my car and have three options for shims.. 19mm, 14mm and 9.5mm. I'm tempted to go with the 19's since this car has been riding very low in the back but I'd like to know what was spec for it.

[Mike D]

What specifications are you lookin for? Original ride height? I believe the original springs had just a small pad for noise reduction.

I used the 19's on a '73 220D with an additional 30 gal. tank. It brought it to original height when both fuel tanks were full but it was rather "bouncy" when I only had a few gallons of fuel.

You shouldn't need a shim if you are installing new springs. Check the rear sub-frame mounts if you have a lot of sag after installing the new springs. Measure ride height with full tank and front seats occupied.

I believe there are different "coil rates" for the rear springs. Seems to me they were color-coded. Anybody else know about this or did my memories just get all confused while stored away in my dusty skull?

[230/8]

gmask:

The different shims allow you to set the proper ride height. If your car is riding low in the rear, not uncommon, I suggest the 19 shim. Also, it might be wise to check the differential mount. These can compress over time and cause the rear to lower by allowing the body to sit lower in relation to the differential. The subframe mounts are also an area to look at, but I would start with the diff mount and the tall shims.

I am surprised your springs need to be replaced. I always thought MB springs were very robust. Rear sagging is usually due to the rubber mounts compressing rather than the springs sagging. Also, have you checked your shocks? The gas pressure in the shocks also contributes to the overall spring rate. If the gas leaks out the car will sit a bit low, front or rear or side to side.

230/8

[magnumrick]

I would try a new set of shocks before I would replace the springs. I just installed a new set of Bilsteins on my 1970 250C and have noticed that the rear did come up. One of the old shocks was leaking and the other was quite a bit softer than the new ones. There has been a big improvement in the ride and handling.

[Blue 72 250]

Interesting comments regarding schocks, and ride height. I have replaced mine on a 114.011 and the rear did not come up much if at all. In addition, my body mounts and diff mount are in good shape. I have assumed the springs have become weak, may shim or may buy new springs.

gmask let us know how the repair turns out.

[barry123400]

Talk about old recollections. The springs can sag with time of course. At one time they were changed out at a regular milage interval by mercedes dealers as part of a tune up. Saw one customer go ballistic when picking up his car after that particular tuneup. He was not aware the springs, starter, generator etc were part and parcel of it. I just was there as a customer waiting for my car. Unforgettable. He could have brought a better mercedes at the time for not much if any more money. I had a valve job, one carb rebuilt, partial new exahust system, included the front split pipes. Bill was 300.00. I guesss you would have to call them the good old days.

[WillR]

Several years ago, I had the rear springs replaced in my 1974 w114 250 sedan. The rear was sagging, particularly on the side where the spare tyre is.

The dealer and another mechanic played with putting shims in, even arguing that putting a shim in the front right would raise the rear right. Hmmm. After much fiddling, the dealer struggled to install springs in the rear. They turned out to be the wrong ones, having arrived in a box labelled 'Ford'. The car road like a truck, and I complained.

Their supplier (a local franchise suspension place) sent Mercedes spec springs. They proved to be too tall. The dealer insisted that I needed new rear shocks, as the old ones were not long enough to accommodate the springs. I had just had new rear shocks installed the previous year, though. When I got my car back from the dealer, the rear was jacked up like a drag racer's, which gave the rear wheels some positive camber. Not good.

Finally, the mechanic that I use now sorted out the mess. The rear end is no longer jacked up in the air. The mechanic (a former race mechanic) cut the springs to the proper height and shimmed the front appropriately. I put my calipers on the new springs, and they are NOT the same diametre as the old ones. It could be that a different steel is used, or it could be that Pedders has the wrong spec for Mercedes springs of this vintage.

The bottom line, I would agree with the suggestion of getting new rubber bushings to replace ones that might have collapsed. In fact, there are a number of rubber bushings in the suspension that could use replacing.

Then, find a reputable online supplier of vintage Mercedes parts, and have them send replacement springs. It may cost a bit more than your local parts shop or junk yard, but you could save yourself some time and trouble.

Best of luck.

Will
Sydney, Australia

[daidnik]

If the car is significantly low in the back, you might want to check the differential mount. The rubber on these will often become completely detached from the U-shaped steel frame and this will allow the differential to drop about an inch which will allow the control arms to angle upwards and the body/chassis drops down significantly.

This is a real easy part to change.

[nachi11744]

Hello.
I agree, check all the rubber bushings and subframe rubbers before jumping on the springs. And replace like for like, all Benz rear springs are interchangeble between the W114/115/116/123.
That means that there is a bewildering array of height,rate and shims

[nachi11744]

Originally Posted by gmask2

I'm putting new rear coil springs into my car and have three options for shims.. 19mm, 14mm and 9.5mm. I'm tempted to go with the 19's since this car has been riding very low in the back but I'd like to know what was spec for it.

Sorry I didn't reply your question. ALWAYS replace like for like.