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Old 01-31-2007, 12:46 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 19
1972 250C fender removal


I need to remove my left front fender from my 72 250C (wife bashed it backing out of garage). It looks like it will bolt off quite easily but I have heard horror stories about the adhesive they used back in the 70s to bond the sheet metal together at the seams. Does anybody have any experience with fender removal from this era of cars and if so are there any issues that I should consider before embarking on this project.

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Old 01-31-2007, 02:19 PM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
Propane torch and putty knife will beat the glue. You can use any type of caulking for the new fender, its a good idea to have it sealed. And the toughest bolts to reach are in the upper door hinge area. Start will pulling the bumper and headlight, working slow and steady it wont take more then a day.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:06 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
Posts: 6,510
The last front fender I changed on a 1972 250c had no bonding agent at all.. It may have been changed once before for all I know though. If you detect a bonding sealant a propane torch should soften it up in small areas as you work along separating it.
Since the fender you are removing is junk I guess bending the flange back to provide separation if required should do no damage. I think I remember one fastening bolt very high on the back edge of the fender though but might be mistaken. Keep an eye out for it.
It has been a long time since I changed that fender remember so allow a little. The main thing I wanted to mention. There has not been a lot of happiness with the Danish aftermarket replacement fenders that are available. The profiles are good I believe but the gauge of metal is too thin. A good used one if you can find it is much better just in my opinion again.
Do not be too upset with the wife. She probably feels bad enouigh already. Count your blessings. It could have been the rear quarter or the whole side. Maybe next time? :
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Old 02-01-2007, 09:31 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 1,114
Make sure you have removed all of the bolts and screws first including the rubber block on the inside ridge which buffers the hood. Remove the reveal panel in the wheel well, there are 3? 10mm head screws in there, the left side (drivers) is a ***** because there is a vacuum resivoir mounted in there, to un-bolt that, the nuts are inside the car behind the hood release, behind the tar felt layer.
You'll need to remove the long chrome trim on the rocker, under it are 2 #3 screws holding the lower "ear" of the fender. Don't be suprized if you find all kinds of rust there... Replace the screws with stainless ones.
Using a torch ( I use a cutting torch with a fine tip) heat the inside seam, using care because the filler is flamable. Now quickly run a carpet knife (sturdy old-style) in the crotch of that seam. Continue with the heat and cuts until you can tug on the fender with upward force to have it come free....
"Shabby" 1978 240D with a 300D motor
1997 Volvo 960 wagon 245K
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