Any sheet metal screw tricks??

[mdsalemi]

While this is related to my W113 it could be true for any old Mercedes or car for that matter.

I need to work on the door internals which requires removing a lot of trim pieces to remove the door panel. Unfortunately the holes in which the small screws fit have enlarged and several screws won't bite anymore. Due to the nature of the screws--bevel head that fit into the trim--going up in size isn't an option. As the screws are the last things on and first off, access to the back isn't possible either, at least not while re-assembling.

Are there any restorer's tricks out there to deal with enlarged holes in sheet metal so I can use the same screws and have them work?

[ozawa]

this is going to sound very, very crude but i've done it and it's worked. JB Weld. i filled the hole and a bit of the surrounding area with JB Weld and let it cure for about a day. filed it down and drilled a very small pilot hole and put things back together.

being that your W113 is restored, this may be too crude of a fix, ( i did it on my old Landcruiser as a sort of experiment.)

the best way would probably be to fill the holes by spot welding, filing it down flat, and then proceeding from there.

[Mike D]

I don't think I'd try to spot weld the holes. It can be done but you have to be very precise on re-drilling the hole size for the screws. Weld is some HARD stuff and will break the screws.

Try the hardware store for plastic inserts like you would use in a block wall. I've used them quite often on the door sill trim holes. Use the type which has a top flange and spread open when you run a screw into them.

Cabinet making suppliers have a wide selection.

You can also use aluminium pop rivets. You have to enlarge the holes, pop the rivet and knock the centers through. Run your screws into the hole of the rivet. They are easy to replace later on if needed.

Don't use steel. They won't spread and will spin right before you get it tight. Go ahead, ask!

[Whiskeydan]

You might try to JB Weld a small piece of sheet metal on the back side of the hole then drill a small hole.

Good luck.

Dan
Looking for a W108.

[mgburg]

Micheal:

Take a toothpick (TP), some aluminum foil (AF) and contact cement (CC).

Cut a strip of AF about 2" - 3" long (this length depends on the size of your "over-hole" and screw more than anything else) and about 1/2" wide;

Take a small amount of CC and spread it the length of the AF on one side only. All you want on the AF is enough CC to 'tack' - you don't need a ton of it...more is not better here;

NOW, starting at the tip of the TP, carefully wrap the AF, sticky side out, around the TP (the TP will serve as the "starter hole" for your screw...), and keep wrapping until you get just enough "snug" for your "plug" to fit snug about 3/4 its length into the hole.

Insert your "plug" into the hole, slide your TP out, position your trim and screw it!

Now, you CAN try epoxy (or other "bonding agents") in place of the CC, but you have to work fast and epoxy is just a freaking mess...

OH, one finale thought...during the "wrapping the TP" stage, as you would be looking at the hole to start your screw, start wrapping the foil on the TP in a CW direction - You want the AF to "expand" outward and not wrap in on itself and the screw.

The easiest way to do the wrap is to think of it like this: While holding the TP, pointing upwards and in your right hand, start wrapping the AF from the the backside, to the left, bring it towards you, go to the right, then away from you, to the left, towards you...etc...that will achieve the CW rotation you're trying to achieve without all the messy "do-overs" I've had to experience.

Good luck with your trim...

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Another trick that sometimes works, if the screw holes have pulled out of the metal and formed a cone shaped mound, is to try and tap them flat with a blunt punch or drift type tool and get the holes to close up again.

Or cut some slivers from sheet-metal, bend them in an 'L' or 'U' shape (whichever best fits your application) and hang them in the enlarged holes to close up the opening and give the screws something to bite.

Alot more work, but far more elegant, is to fabricate small rectangular plates from sheet metal, pre-drilled & threaded to fit your screws, and fasten them behind your stripped holes.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[jbaj007]

How 'bout the female part of a push type trim fastenener and screw into that?

http://www.thefastenerwarehouse.com/page/page/568361.htm

[TOPGUN]

I Have Used Mike D's Pop Rivet Method. It Works. Size The Pop Rivet To Match Your Trim Screw. Mikes Method Is A Variation Of Using A Rivnut Gun.

[Rick76]

Tinnerman nuts can be glued on the backside or clipped on, depending on the style. Check an industrial or automotive fastener supply catalog for a wide selection of sizes and styles (ie. http://www.spaenaur.com/products.asp?PageID=C)