79 Sd Trans Slip And Creaky Steering

[Danvickman]

I Recently Purchased A 300 Sd (116) With 203k Miles. It Shifted A Little Akward But Not Terrible At First And Seemed To Shift Through The Gears To Quickly. When I Punch It It Doesnt Seem Like The Turbo Engages Like Other Sds Ive Had. Now It Seems It Always "flares Up" And Slips Between 1st And Second Esp. When Cold. Before I Have A Overhaul Are There Any Adjustments That Could Solve The Problem? I Also Hear A Creaking (almost Like An Old Heavy Door) When I Steer That Seems To Be Coming From The Right Side. I Topped Of Ps Fluid And The Prob. Persists.

I Havent Been To Happy With The Shops Ive Tried In La(both Mb Specialist) With Previous Repairs And Am Looking For Some Sound Advice Before I Take It In. Any Recommended Shops In Los Angeles Area?

P.s. Where Can I Find A "rear Hat Tray" (interior Panel Behind Back Seat) New Or Used In Decent Shape.

Any Help Is Greatly Appreciated. Thanks!

[JPMOSE]

The 722.1 transmission is different than the later 722.3 (used on W123 and W126 turbo diesels). On the 722.3, vacuum only effects softness of shift, while the bowden cable adjustment effects the timing. The earlier 722.1 transmission has timing and quality of shift effected by both vacuum and control pressure rod adjustments. I have a small .pdf file that I could e-mail to you with the adjustments for the W116 300SD. Send me your e-mail address to: j.p.mose@lmco.com and I will forward it to you.

I have only owned my 1979 300SD for one month now. The prior owner did an extensive amount of work on this car and is a certified Mercedes mechanic. Although the car has it's original transmission (172k miles), all adjustments are to spec and it shifts MUCH BETTER than my '83 300D! I am of the opinion that the 722.1 is a smoother shifting transmission than the early 722.3 (1981 through 1983). In 1984, the 722.3 was modified and started to shift much softer from 1-2. Fortunately, when the transmissions are rebuilt, many modifications are incorporated into them (assuming the transmission shop implements the mods).

If I don't receive your e-mail be 3:00 PM EST, it will have to wait until Monday.

Regarding the steering...check your idler arm bushings, which commonly cause noise as they wear out. I had a moaning on my '83 300D just last week. I assumed it was the steering column and sprayed the rubber grommet that the shaft passes through on the firewall. As it turns out, it was the drag link, which must have had a dry rod end.

Good luck!

[Danvickman]

Thanks!
I checked my trans. fluid this morning. When I pulled out the stick it had a very light coating of fluid and after I cleaned it with a rag a pulled it again it was bone dry!(Car was on but not at normal operating temp.) I probably should have checked first before I posted but was in a bit a a panic. I will change today and see what happens. I assume running a trans with very low fluid can potentlly damage it? What are the common trans. leak issues?
I had an 81 SD prior to the 79. Although it wasnt as pretty as my 79 it ran like a muscle car compared to the 79. It had a trans problem the entire time I had it and I just dealt with it. It had a hard time with 2-3. On some cold morning I thought it would never go to 3. Then i figured out if you keep in "S" for a bit and warm it up, you could drop into "D" and would shift smooth from then on.
I think your right about the idler bushings. The front end was really loose when I bought the car. I had steering wheel bushing replaced new ball joints and a left control arm replaced. Im probably due for bushings seals and gaskets. Is that a pricey job for the idler bushings?
Thanks so much for the great advice...

[Danvickman]

Oh, One more thing if you dont mind. While I was checking the tran.fluid I notice the air filter case shakes and make a horrble noise. It doesnt seem like the motor shakes though...

[kartoffelpanzer]

JP-

Just sent you an email, maybe you could send that pdf my way as well?

Air cleaner is likely broken mounting bolts or a broken bracket. If you remove the cleaner you should be able to see what's going on. There are some fixes out there, one of which I think involves shimming a rubber buffer between the left edge of the air cleaner housing and the valve cover.

[JPMOSE]

Rob,

I didn't get your e-mail. Perhaps the firewall blocked it! Send it to jefferymose@yahoo.com and I will provide you with it over the weekend.