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#1
08-26-2007, 10:44 AM
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If you were me..
Here's the poop. Have a 1967 W111 250SE Coupe. Engine is tired. Bottom end seems fine (good compression), likely needs a head job and a maybe a MFI pump rebuild. Has a newer replacement auto tranny.
Question: Do the work and keep the original M129 2.5 motor OR drop in a super running M130 2.8 for a little more vroom? The car's future is to be a shabby chic driver unashamed of bondo, not much hope of ever competing with Ralph Lauren at Pebble Beach. I figure the costs of the above scenarios will be similar, maybe less to drop in the M130. Thanks for you input!
__________________
Present 1971 280SE W108 1967 250SE W111 Rhode Island _____________ Auf Wiedersehen 1972 280SE 4.5 (AKA Das Moneypitten) 1972 250C (Mit den zwei carburetors from hell) "Time fly’s like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana" Groucho Marx 
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#2
08-26-2007, 02:39 PM
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If its a driver and not a show winner, go with what YOU want. If the 280 will in your opinion make it a better driver than do it. If purity is more important to you than keep the 250.
__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes 
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#3
08-26-2007, 03:41 PM
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Thought the car had less than 100k miles? Sounds early for valve job they usually dont need until 140k+ specially with good compression. I'd leave the cyl head alone and scratch up an injector pump for the existing longblock, ask bosch for rebuilt pump then swap the old one as core.
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#4
08-26-2007, 10:29 PM
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The pump might be worn, but more likely it's just misadjusted. They are touchy beasts and demand a careful hand. If you're in a warm climate, bypass the coolant loop that's on the intake. That was a short-term fix they did that really didn't help the drivability of the car so they undid it.
If you have an M130 handy, by all means, drop it in. But don't give up on the original power plant so casually. Go through all the tune up and maintenance steps one at a time. - Valve clearance - Valve timing validation (looking for timing chain stretch) - compression - Ignition timing - Ignition advance validation - fuel pump behavior - coolant system behavior (especially how it interacts with the FI pump) - vacuum leaks That's just off the top of my head. Each of these systems is covered in the big blue book and for each, mercedes published "optimum" values. Do what you can for each to make those optimal values hold and watch the car perform better at each turn. As Chris Johnson puts it in his sig, "If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing". -CTH
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#5
08-27-2007, 12:29 AM
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I entire rebuid a 129 from my 250 SE (without FI...dont smile Charles!), have tons of measurements, data and pictures, if you need anything, drop me a line.
__________________
Alex Rozzi 1967 250 SE Buenos Aires, Argentina 
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#6
08-28-2007, 07:55 AM
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Thanks for all the sound advice. I'll have a go at the original motor and report back. I'd like to keep it original and intact.
__________________
Present 1971 280SE W108 1967 250SE W111 Rhode Island _____________ Auf Wiedersehen 1972 280SE 4.5 (AKA Das Moneypitten) 1972 250C (Mit den zwei carburetors from hell) "Time fly’s like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana" Groucho Marx
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