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1972 280 Se Us Trigger Point/distributor
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46652392@N00/1294602530/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46652392@N00/1294602270/ Hello again Wanted to clean trigger points due to misfiring on a couple of cylinders. Took picture before I removed dist. Marked on the dist. where the rotor was.When I reinstalled would not fire. How can I align dist. properly to the TDC of engine. Help!!!! Hopefully I have not screwed something up. I have included some pictures. Thanks BB Last edited by benjira; 09-01-2007 at 10:26 AM. |
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Quote:
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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I thought I put the distributor on right, but I don't think I did. How do I get back to square 1. It says 5* at TDC (what exactly does that mean).
Thanks Again |
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Start from the beginning now
Now is the time to :
1) pull spark plugs 1a) adjust valves (optional) (gotta do it sometime, now?) 1b) check compression (optional) (nice to do tho) 1c) pull injectors and renew head seals (little rubber thingys) 1d) check ALL fuel lines on top, and the one you don't see in front 2) rotate motor manually to align #1 to pointer 3) replace points, set to .014 (lube weights, check vac diaphragm) 4) align rotor to mark on dist body 5) rotate as you drop dist in, slightly tighten 6) replace with new w7, 8, or 9 plugs set to .032, anti-sieze on threads, 1/2 turn tighten after seating plugs BY HAND. 7) fire up and set timing, lock down 9) drive it 10) there are more little things to do while doing this of course there are more things to do it takes me 8 hours to do this tune-up on the 4.5 but after all the details are done they run for years between tune-ups. This is the all or none method |
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You need to turn your crank to TDC first. See if your rotor is closer to 6:00 or 12:00. If it's closer to 6:00, turn your crank another full revolution to TDC. See if the notch on the distributor (at roughly 12:30) lines up with the rotor. Not sure how to see if your crank is at TDC?
Your timing should be 5° ATDC (after top dead center) at 750RPMs. But getting it close should allow you to start, or at least time while cranking.
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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Thanks Tom
Finally someone with pictures. I am still confused about a lot of this.I will try and follow your advise and keep reading up on stuff. I have the cdrom for my 126 and it really helps. All I have for the 108 is the Haynes manual. There are a lot of things it doesn't show.A picture is truly worth a thousand words. So lets say I get the crank sitting on 5*ATDC with the distrib out of the car. Which way should the rotor be facing when I slide it back in. Right now it is out, and I am basically starting from scratch. I knew I should not have done this without a real Mercedes manual. So where should the rotor be facing at 5*ATDC ? Toward the 2 little snake bite marks on the distrib. I am very mechanically inclined but if you have never seen anyone do this it can be a bit perplexing. AAAARGHH Thanks Again |
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benjira: This forum is a giant haynes or MB manual - you just need to search the right stuff. But anyway...
Your rotor, with your engine pointed to TDC, should be either at ~12:30 (where your notch on the top of the distributor is, I can see it in your picture) or at 6:30. Sound confusing? Keep in mind your #1 cylinder fires once every TWO complete revolutions. So your timing could indicate the right value but actually be completing the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Your firing order is listed on your primary bank (Right side as seen from the driver position), and cylinders are labeled from the front to back. So if you're in the Americas or mainland Europe your passenger side holds 1-4, with 1 being by the radiator and 4 by the firewall, with 5-8 on the driver's side, 5 by the radiator. If you get it "Close enough" time to TDC while cranking the engine, it might be fast when started but you can time it properly when running. You DO have a timing light, correct? And don't confuse the "notch" on the crank hub with TDC, it isn't close to TDC.
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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Yeah I now know that the notch is not TDC. I am having a hard time getting to TDC by bumping the ignition. I have been reading about turning the crank bolt with a 27MM deep 1/2" socket. Thank you for showing where the notch is, that is the first time I have seen it. What are the 2 little nipple things on the side of the distro? My neighbor has a timing light. How do you clean the points with the little plastic piece on there, you really can't get in there with anything. I used brake part cleaner. It will just be nice to hear her running again. I have a place here in Atl. that sells new and used parts called The Benz Store. If I can't afford it new he will always sell it to me used.These forums are a godsend. Thanks for your help I will see how she goes tomorrow.
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Most people don't install the plastic piece. You can remove it with a screwdriver, then use an index card (CTH prefers a dollar bill) to clean them.
And yeah, you should turn the crank by hand at this point, and you'll need to remove the fan to do so. MAKE SURE to keep 1 bolt in the water pump pulley so it doesn't fall off.
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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What do you know. All I needed was my 7 year old son to get my car running.I bumped the ignition and he told me when the 5's came around.Started like a champ,went and put fuel injector cleaner and a tank of high test and away she went. I am still looking for whats causing the skipping,I am on the 6th spark plug then on to the injectors. For some reason it has N11's in it. Should I change them to an N8 or 9. Thanks for the forums guys, you all rock. I will post some pics of "Mellie" when I finish.
Thanks again BB |
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high-res photo
Benjira (or anyone), you wouldn't happen to have a high-res photo of your distributor sans cap? The one you posted is OK but I can't quite make out the details.
I have no idea if someone was in there before I bought my car and I want to know how it should look. Thanks either way. |
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Douging
I saw on one of Tomguys posts a great distributor picture. I will take a few shots today and send the link. |
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Hey, if you want distributor tuning tips check out my thread! It's got tons of pics.
4.5 Distributor modifications! Also, benjira, clip your condenser wire!
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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I cant see the pictures as its asking me to sign in to a yahoo account I dont have but why should benjira clip his condenser wire?
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61 Austin mini 67 Lotus 7 74 450sl 76 Cadillac 8.2l (501 ci) some new cars megasquirt conversion on: djet 74 450sl http://www.mercdjetmegasquirt.britautorepair.com/ cis 76 450sl http://www.merccismegasquirt.britautorepair.com/ the best view is always from the point of no return |
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