what's with this cd-rom

[bachlauter]

Hi All..
I just got the cd-rom from Mercedes-Benz. It was a great deal for $19.99.
However, the information I am looking for doesn't seem to be on it.
What I'm trying to find out is how to take the engine apart, piece by piece, most importantly, at this point, how to take the transmission apart from the engine. I mean, I'm sure I could take it apart, but how about how to put it back on later. Is this a dumb question? Is there such a detailed information available for my 1969 250? Shouldn't such info be on this Cd-rom "Service Manual"?
This disc describes how to take the engine and the transmisson out of the car, together. It also says how to put said items back into the car, together.
Dude, I need to blow this engine open and get crazy, but this cd-rom just isn't complete.
Am I missing something?
What do you people do when you take apart the engine? I can't possibly do it all by memory. I can't even remember what I did 5 minutes ago..
~Christy

[ggenovez]

In that case you're probably looking for the MB engine manual.

Another option might be to purchase a Haynes manual. Not as complete but not as expensive...

[Shab]

You need the specific engine manual. Most of us if we are lucky, have both the service manual and the engine manual. Some production models were available with different engines or different variations on the same engine (carbs or fuel injection).

If you want to do a tear down, you need the engine manual.

[cth350]

wrong answer guys. There is no engine manual for the M114 motor Christy's working with (not that the post mentions that the car is a 1969 250/8).

Yeah, there are a few things missing from the manual that mercedes figured "must be obvious". There are also a few things missing that they felt would be outside the scope of the average repair (like teariing the transmission apart).

The answer to the question about the transmission disconnection is part of their "that's obvious" stuff (please note my sarcasm when I write that). There should be a procedure that describes how to remove the transmission from the car (in section 27), but they might have left that out.

In this case...

1. Support the engine (keep it from falling over) without supporting the transmission. I find that a pair of well placed 4x4s are great for this. BTW, you did drain the transmission already, right?

2. Figure out what the engine's backplate is. It's about 1 inch thick and has the bolts that hold the engine to the transmission. On these 60's straight 6 motors, it is removable. On some much later motors, it's cast into the block.

3. On the bottom of the motor, the backplate has a small access panel that you need to remove. Once it's out of the way, you should see the flex disk and ring gear (and a few bolts).

4. Using a 28mm socket on the crank, rotate the engine clockwise to expose each of the 6 bolts in the flex disk that connect the flex disk to the torque converter. If you're lucky, one or two of them were visible in step 3.

5. Remove the two bolts that hold the starter to the engine. Put them aside, as they will need to go back here. There should be a braided ground strap on one of them. That has to go back too.

6. Undo the bolts that connect the transmission to the engine. Start with the bolts on the bottom and work your way up on each side. All that really matters is that the last one you remove is one of the two on the top.

7. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine. This is not as simple as it sounds. The transmission is quite heavy and the two items have been bolted together for a looong time. When you removed that bolt in the previous step, the transmission should have dropped a little bit from its own weight and it's now a bit crooked. You'll have to hold up the end to get it straight again.

At this point, the transmission should slide off the motor easily. Inside the bellousing of the transmission is a "heavy round thing", correctly called a torque converter or fluid coupling depending on the type of transmission you have (I forget). Either way, remove the thing from inside the bellhousing; pull it "straight out" (which will get your hands rather dirty, especially if you didn't drain the fluid from it yet).

Take a careful look at the "primary input shaft" of the transmission. That "heavy round thing" was skewered on it. The end of the shaft has splines (long, straight teeth, like a gear). If that shaft has a second piece of metal around it, which also has splines, then you're holding a torque converter. Also, the shaft should be rather ridged.

On the other hand, if that shaft is just disappears into the transmission, you're holding a fluid coupling, and yes, it's OK if the shaft wobbles a bit.

Either way, when you put this all back together again, be sure to replace the seal inside the transmission at the base of the shaft. Also when you put the torque converter back in, you have to be a little patient about pushing it in all the way so both sets of splines engage in it. You know it's right when the body of the thing is fully inside the bellhousing.

As for taking the motor apart, the CD will describe how to remove individual pieces. The haynes manual is a little more focused on this task. You will need a special tool. K+D sells a valve compressor for overhead valve engines. It's a handle with a pair of hooks hanging down at one end and another pair of hooks in the middle. It should cost about 50$ online.

-CTH

[cth350]

That spring compressor is a "K-D Tools 3087 Valve Spring Compressor".
Just pass that phrase to Google.
For instance, Amazon shows a few used ones for 42$.




-CTH

[bachlauter]

HEY!
Has anyone ever removed the oil pump from the engine block? Apparently, my husband is having trouble getting that thing off. He is in the process of taking the engine apart. He says all the parts look good, not all worn out.
I'll admit I'm not really involved! (LOL!) But three cylinders were stuck, which (I guess) is why the vehicle wouldn't power up the driveway years back. However, this car had that problem of the timing getting thrown off. No real clues have emerged as to why that happens. Paul thinks it has to do with the timing chain set up..which is also horribly difficult to disassemble, so I hear.

Ok..back to the question...does the oil pump completely come off of the engine? I thought I read that it was a series of gears or something.
Enlighten me.

~Christy

[ctaylor738]

IIRC, two bolts and some pulling and wiggling, and it should come out. It is a tight fit.

[bwostosh]

This disassembly - reassembly is not easy for first-timers.
After maybe about 12-15 motors this is routine.
I just knocked apart a M130 and honed the cylinders.
figure 30-40 hours to dis-assy and CLEAN all parts.
After honing then one can really assess the condition.
Plastigage the bearings too.
It really helps to power wash (blast) first.

Most Mercedes engines just need wear parts replaced.