|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Purchase advice, 1972 250C
I am new to the mercedes world. Love the look of a 1972 250C midnight blue mercedes for sale in my area. I live in Washington DC and while this will be my only car it will merely be for weekend driving and the occasional errand. I can get the car for $4200. It has 140K miles on it and has some modifications. I placed the ad below. Any thoughts? Things to look for? If I bought this and had $1000 to fix some things would this be a reliable car for a year or two or a money pit.
Please help a newbie. "1972 250C 6 cylinder, dual carbs, 4 wheel disc brakes, factory dual exhaust manifolds, 4 speed Automatic trans. Power steering a/c power windows.This car was way ahead of it's time. It shares the exact same suspension as a 450SL. I installed 450SL front brake rotors and calipers (direct conversion/factory parts) and this car stops on a dime. It is an older restoration but the body is nice and it drives like new. many many new parts. The muffler in the rear is starting to rust thru, but it only has 500 miles on it as I barely drive it. Other than that I think everything works." |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
at that price, the car should run perfectly and have no underside rust.
The cosmetics should be great but not perfect. Don't pay a dime without having the car put on a lift to look for underside rust and make sure that an emissions test is done to prove that the HC and CO % are within the published specs. While the car might be smog exempt. If those number are out of wack, you have an engine problem, a carb problem or both. Once the car has reliable brakes, suspension, exhaust, carbs, tires and fluids, you'll find the model to be rather economical (for a vintage car) and a pleasure to drive. With the exception of the known exhaust problem and the fact that the brake system probably need new rubber hoses due to age and you should always replace the oil and coolant on getting a used car, this car should need nothing at all for the price quoted. -CTH |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
114 / 115 chassis dont really command alot of $$. I would think $3000 for one in excellent condition, but location does modify price a bit.
__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Agree with Charlie on this, these cars rust like you would not believe. Check the floor, sills, truck floor, rear quarters and inner wings. Also inspect the A Pillar and rear valance.
The carbs can be troublesome on this motor and if the heater does not work, it will cost a small fortune to repair it as it's a huge effort to get to it. Great car though, good luck with your purchase.
__________________
With best regards Al |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks
Here is the ad so you can see the pictures. From what you guys are saying it's a bit high but the paint and wheels seem to be pluses. If there is no rust is this a decent buy at $4000.
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/car/427521114.html |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Personally I would never recommend a 35+ year old car as your "only car" and if you aren't able and willing to work on it yourself you shouldn't walk but run away from it unless you have bottomless pockets.
There are very few good techs left who know these cars and chances are you won't find one. The first time something goes wrong the shop will bleed you dry trying to figure out what it is. These are great old cars, but not for the faint of heart or those who are guided by their hearts more than their heads. Most of us look at them as challenges and the reward of keeping them running ourselves justifies the efforts but if I were paying $75 an hour to some tech to fix all the stuff I've had to fix over the years I'd have given up long ago. I hate to be a downer but that's my $0.02.
__________________
Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Is it a manual trans? Hard to tell by the pic showing the shifter knob. If you want a pricing guide where you live go to ebay, do a search for 250C or 280C, and filter by completed listings. You can see what others have paid. The dash cover probably hides cracks in the dash. It is worth what you are willing to pay. , not what we say its worth.
__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
The '72 250C had the 130.923 motor that was essentially the same old 6 cyl gas engine block bored out to 2.8 liter displacement. That motor also had little slits at the top of the block between adjacent cylinders that allowed coolant flow all the way at the top, essentially right at the block/headgasket interface. This coupled with the overboring to 2.8 liter created a scenario that made coolant seepage problematic. There's very little 'land' on either side of those slits for the haedgasket seal; <2.5mm. This generally occurs between cyl 4 & 5. These 2.8 liter versions also DID, in general, have cooling & pre-ignition problems once the gasoline got 'crappy' in the US.
I live out in So. Calif. If you are in a cooler climate, this may not be much of an issue. If you're buying from an original owner, or one that has had the car for a while, ask how many valve jobs have been done on the car. The 130.923 motor also had somewhat higher compression that aggravated the aformentioned problems. I drove a 130.923 motor over 100k miles. It had lots of power, but both times I had to do valve jobs was because of these seepage problems. I eventually put a 2.5 liter in that didn't have the slits. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
It says it is auto tranny in the listing and in his post. These cars' values are so tied to their condition that even a price guide is somewhat useless. The car can be worth anywhere from $1000 to $10000 from the photos shown. Without a proper inspection in person nobody can tell you the price is fair or not, but based upon what's been presented and the lack of demand for these in general my opinion would be it is overpriced by at least $1000, maybe even $1500. And yeah, if the heater blower isn't working knock another $1000 off. In my state you can't get an inspection sticker without a working defroster...don't ask me how I learned that expensive lesson
__________________
Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Looks nice with those Euro headlights.
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
I drove my 250C daily till I got the 450SEL, which I bought because I couldn't get a child seat in the 250C
Michael
__________________
Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120 |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I guess at the end of the day, if you like it that is all that counts. Personally, that seems like a lot of money for a car that looks to be "tricked out".
Also, I agree with nhdoc's sentiment about owning a 35+ year old car. Unless you have the ability or the willingness to work on the car yourself, you are going to find it to be a very expensive propisition. That being said, I have a 1972 250C sitting in my garage right now. It's a fun car to drive and a great project to work on. I have two more mechanical problems to fix, and then everything will be in working condition. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
carpeted dash, modern (wrong) wheels, modern (wrong) steering wheel, seat covers. Cool headlights, pretty paint.
Not a 4,000$ car. If that pretty paint is hiding "the usual rust", then this is a 2,000$ car. You've got to get it on a lift and look at the underside. There is a heavy layer of undercoating that will start to peel off at the spots where there is rust though (Al itemized them). Somebody careful would have scraped the stuff off (hard, hard work) and then fixed the rust and reapplied a new sealer coat. On the other hand, somebody that just wanted a pretty car wouldn't do any of that and would just paint the outside to make it pretty. Like Doc said, if this is going to be your only means of transportation, there will come a time when you need to get someplace and this old girl will be laid up. It may not be serious, but it will vex you. Also, if you're not mechanically inclined, you will eventually notice that an old car visits the shop a lot more than a late model used car. -CTH |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Yes it does, and it is a nice color, too, but it looks horrible with those utterly inappropriate "bling" wheels. It should have the original steelies and matching color painted hubcaps.
The rust that it may have that you can't see is likely worse that the rust you CAN see. ANd rust is a VERY serious issue with these models. The car should not be considered for purchase if it has rust on it.
__________________
1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ... 1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold) 2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp 1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k 2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold) |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
At least in the pictures, it's a very pretty car.
But you are probably one of three people who would pay that much money for it. If you can't keep it under cover, it will just rust away, so keep that in mind. Suggest that you get it looked at by JCP Motorsports in Alexandria or Don Pool in Arlington, and if the undercarriage and mechanicals check out, pay $3500 absolute max.
__________________
Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
Bookmarks |
|
|