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  #1  
Old 10-20-2007, 03:50 PM
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w108 clock, wiring and fuses

I bought a used clock for my '67 250S and installed it today. A few hours later, I went to check and the clock hadn't moved. I'm assuming it's a working clock (it was advertised that way) so that means I have a bad fuse (I can't for the life of me find a fuse panel) or it's not getting power. I also assume (since there doesn't seem to be a place to plug in power for the clock) that it gets its power from the instrument cluster.

Am I right? What should I look for to fix this?

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  #2  
Old 10-20-2007, 07:29 PM
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Clock fuse should be #1..which is always hot.

There is also a fuse link in the clock..these are electro/mechanical clockworks.
Check for power at clock plugs first.
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  #3  
Old 10-20-2007, 07:56 PM
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Sorry for being dense but where is the fuse panel on this car? I have only had it a few weeks and am still learning it. Also, to check for power, I assume I would have to take out the clock and stick a probe into the female power port?
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Old 10-20-2007, 07:57 PM
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Should be under the hood...on firewall
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2007, 01:00 AM
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On all the 60's fintails, the fuse panel is located in an oval shaped holder just to the left of the brake booster in the very left upper corner of the firewall. You'll see a sort of oval shaped bakelite brown plastic cover with 2 round thumbscrews. Unscrew the thumbscrews and pull the fuse box cover straight out and off.

If the fuses have corroded tips, the best thing to do is replace them. But, as a temporary measure, you can spin them back and forth and they'll make contact again.

There is a "legend" on the inside of the fuse box cover that will tell you what fuse does what.

Regarding the clock's power source, the plug-in for the clock is the same shape as the plug-in for the light in the glovebox (if your car is so equiped). So these can be switched and then you have a clock that doesn't work unless the key is in the "on/run" position.

Best way to diagnose this is simply test for 12v at the plug-in for the clock. If you have 12v, you know you have a bad clock. If you don't have 12v, turn on the ignition key and test again. If you have 12v, you know that plug-in belongs to the glovebox light.....so switch 'em. If you still don't have 12v, then check your fuses.

Clear as mud?
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:02 AM
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Better, it gives me some place to start. Thanks
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Old 10-21-2007, 11:37 AM
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It just occurred to me that yesterday, I replaced the bulb in the glove box and it lit up even though the key was not in the ignition. I would assume that is a good indication that the wiring is switched?
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Old 10-21-2007, 11:56 AM
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Wait, is the fuse box for the 6-cyl 108 different than the 4.5 one?

In the 4.5, the fuse box you're looking for is located under the dash, on the driver's side. It has an oval cover held on with 2 thumb screws. Fuse #1 is your clock. It's also the glovebox, dome light, trunk light and hazard light fuse. So if these work, it isn't this fuse blown.

Power to the clock is (+) through the "tab" and (-) is the post that has a contact on the cluster. If your contact is bent out (not contacting the post) the clock won't be getting ground. The same would possibly hold true if the clock isn't screwed in on that post.
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  #9  
Old 10-21-2007, 10:27 PM
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The clock wiring is generally bullet proof,I 've worked on some really rough Merrcs and the wiring is never at fualt,it's always what is on the End of the wire. So,in this case I would remove the clock and connect it direct to the battery with a couple of wires and listen for the sound of it winding up. no wind up sound means the internal solder fuse has blown and needs to be resoldered. the clocks are very robust and thats about all that goes wrong with them..apart from dikheds poking aound in them ..
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2007, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Miller View Post
Regarding the clock's power source, the plug-in for the clock is the same shape as the plug-in for the light in the glovebox (if your car is so equiped). So these can be switched and then you have a clock that doesn't work unless the key is in the "on/run" position.

If you don't have 12v, turn on the ignition key and test again. If you have 12v, you know that plug-in belongs to the glovebox light.....so switch 'em. If you still don't have 12v, then check your fuses.

Clear as mud?
Would also be fair to say that if the light in the glove box works with the key off then the wires are probably switched?

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