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#1
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Washer pump w108
I've been advised by mechanic that the pump system on the w108 is worthless and I should install an electric pump. I think I'll buy a universal pump from the auto parts store and hook it up.
I think that I'm going to hook it up the the switch on the foot pedal. My question is the wiring. I assume that when the switch is activated it completes the circuit and causes the wipers to activate. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should wire it?
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1982 300SD 1967 250S ...what was I thinking...... |
#2
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Whats wrong with the manual foot pump and bladder combo hanging from the battery tray? Poke out the nozzle jets if they're blocked, but the original washer is hard to beat.
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#3
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I've heard from more than a few people that even when working properly, the stream is "whimpy".
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1982 300SD 1967 250S ...what was I thinking...... |
#4
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Not so - it works well - you just need to make sure that that hoses and jets are clear and you'll get a good stream.
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Alastair from South Australia 1971 280 SE 3.5 1981 300D 1980 300D |
#5
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ok, so I make sure the hoses and jets are clear. Are there any check valves I have to worry about? What actually does the pumping? Is it vacuum or the bubble on the foot switch?
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1982 300SD 1967 250S ...what was I thinking...... |
#6
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The bellows works as siphon pump manually forcing wash fluid through the jets. You can blow em out clean with pressurized air. Please dont discard it, thats stone stock mechanical device that rarely fails and one of the coolest primitive features of old world MB's. Replacement bladder reservoirs have now become scarce, but its worth restoring if you can do it.
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#7
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What I have found is that the bladder fills with deposits over the years. I suppose that this stuff is whatever they put into ww fluid, and/or whatever is in the water they use.
I have "emptied" a few of them, and all had "stuff" in them. Some just powder (almost like talcum powder), other more chunky stuff, along with powder. In one case, I would guess that the capacity was reduced by 25-40%. I also discovered that often this crud, would block discharge. Grab your 8mm, remove the bladder (after disconnecting the reservoir) and hold it upside down to remove what stuff might be in there. Unless your bladder is new, I will guarantee that there is crud in there. I like this type of system, because I can aim it, with varying pressure, to the elevation where I think it will do the most good. hope this helps...
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#8
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we had very hard water when I lived in the bay area and I discovered that adding white vinegar to any car's washer fluid would help clear the system of mineral deposits and make things work better. This was especially helpful with my first MB - the end of deposits.
I'm kinda fond of the foot pump too Ann
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1972 280 SEL 4.5 "Henrietta" - The Learning Experience 1972 280 SEL 4.5 "Brunhilda" - Pretty Sponge for $100.00 Bills |
#9
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Some of the 'crud' may also be crumbling rubber!
For a long time, I had no complaint with the performance of the rubber-bulb footpump in my '72 250, but after so many years the rubber can deteriorate. If the bulb doesn't crack and leak first, the insides may start to crumble, spreading tiny rubber particles through the washer system to repeatedly clog the valve and nozzles. I wound up wiring a small Delco electric washer pump, from an '80s Chevy Cavalier, to the circuit at the pedal switch that normally cycles the wipers when the bulb is depressed. I did have to disconnect the wire for the wiper cycle feature, as I didn't add a diode or relay circuit to prevent feedback into the pump when the wipers were switched on, but that was a minor issue compared to gaining a reliable washer system. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 12-30-2007 at 03:42 PM. |
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