Ole Sitting Benz W110

[bus63kombi]

Ok so I got to start playing with my 200D today and alot of stuff isn't working, or working correctly. What is the best practice to get, I would figure like what I have done to my old VW's just go through and start cleaning terminals and grounds and make sure things are plugged in correctly.
Any other suggestions?
Cheers
-Cary

[t walgamuth]

Yep, it is just a car. Most everything is pretty much designed along the lines of most other cars. The parts are very high quality though and you will find very few bolts that will not loosten on it so breaking bolts is a very very rare incident. Also you will find electrical plug ins will more likely than not still be in good condition. Just take your time and never assume a part is bad until you have checked it out.

Good luck. There aren't that many fintails left out there but they are very nice driving cars once you get them up and going. A few years back I went and drove a fintail that was for sale in West lafayette. I was impressed with how much it drove like a 123 chassis car.

Tom W

[vox_incognita]

Hi, before trying to start the motor and after having checked the terminals ,I would:
-take off the valve cover and clean/renew the oil in the chain tensioner oil pocket(this one is not pressure-fed) and bleed the tensioner(push the V-lever of the sprocket with a screwdriver till no air bubbles emerge from the tensioner.The tensioner should be very firm).
-inspect the valve clearances(measured between the cap nut and rocker arm for this motor)-cam lobes,rocker arms surfaces,sprocket teeth etc.Lube the cam and rocker arms.If the timing chain still incorporates the c-clip master link,it`s advisable to install and rivet a new type one.

-Rotate the crank by hand (27mm deep socket)
-don`t forget to check the chain elongation-align the cam marks(paragr.10 and the pics from this link
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

-change all the filters and oils
-check the oil in IP,check and adjust the start/stop cable,if needed.
-check whether the vacuum line from the IP governor to the air intake is air tight
-Install a plastic fuel pre-filter,bleed the system(small screw on top of fuel filter cannister,small screw next to oil fill cap on IP. Prime with the pump while loosen/tightening each bolt. Install the modified (much easier to operate) hand priming pump(cheap).
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/PrimerPump
Check all fuel hoses,renew...Check/renew the valves in the lift pump if fuel still drains out of the fuel pre-filter...
-check the glow plugs.Make the upgrade later-all you need is 4 GP`s and some cable...
-check the water pump for ease of movement and oil..
-disconnect the start-stop cable from the IP lever,and have someone hold the lever in "stop"(forward)position(zero fuel delivery) while you crank the engine to build up oil pressure...
Be very careful with the ether-filled tube from the water temp sensor to the instrument
Oil pressure should not drop under 0,6 bar at hot idle and should rise with almost no delay to top when you depress the gas pedal.It`s a mechanical gauge,oil hits the instrument...a black tube is coming from the oil cannister top,be careful with it too.


-while changing the oil filters(the plastic mesh one is reusable,clean with gasoline the outer part),put the car in reverse and turn the steering wheel to make way,not much room there...
-turn the steering wheel compl. to the left,open the steering box oil fill plug and check the level-measured from the hole ,the distance to the oil level should be 40milimetres.
Good luck!