how do you PULL AN M110 motor from a W114? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

blankenship · #1 03-15-2008, 08:14 PM

i'm in the process of pulling a motor at a salvage yard from a '74 model 280.
some of it's self-explanatory, but i've got some fairly urgent questions/confusions:

1. motor mounts: in the manual, i see numerous references to pulling the front and rear engine mounts. i've removed the bolts from each of the side mounts (that are next to the engine shocks), and i just don't see any more. the book mentions one btween the oil pan and the cross member, AND a "rear engine support" as well. where are they? do they exist on this car, or am i done?

2. engine/tranny bolts: how many of these are there? again, in the manual, it says i may need an allen key, and that there are bolts that have to be removed 'from the top." i've removed 4-5 big bolts from underneath with a 17mm wrench, and but i see numerous spots where it seems there could be connecting bolts with hidden allen heads. are there bolts in there, too? or am i done? if there are, anybody know what size there are, and how many? also, are there bolts that have to be removed "from the top"? and do i have to remove the tranny cover and mess w/ any torque convertor attachments?

3. starter: i guess i have to remove the big bolt at the bottom of the starter to separate the engine and tranny? do i have to remove some allen bolt at the top of the starter, too?

answers / tips would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Chas H · #2 03-15-2008, 08:23 PM

Take out the engine and trans together. Remove the radiator and cut out the top radiator support- the engine/trans will come almost straight out. Once the engine/trans are out the starter and torque convertor bolts are easy to remove. And the guys at the salvage yard will thank you.

cth350 · #3 03-15-2008, 09:10 PM

As for engine mounts, there are three kinds of mounts.
- Rubber+steel things; one on each side of the motor where it bolts to the cross-member.
- Tiny shock absorber-like things. Different models have zero, one or two of them.
- The rubber mount at the rear of the transmission.

-CTH

t walgamuth · #4 03-15-2008, 09:56 PM

Some mercedes have a mount that goes horizontally from the crossmember into a pocket in the back of the lower pan. I know a 240d has them but I am not aware that the 110 has them. I think there are two bolts holding it onto the crossmember.

Tom W

300SDog · #5 03-16-2008, 04:07 AM

Junkyard pull: all you practically need is cutting torch, forklift and length of chain - nothing surgical. Recruit one of the yard junkies with lift and torch to help. Grabbing trans engine combo as complete unit will probly be easiest. Chop the rad support as Chas suggests. Pulling the starter alone on 114/115 has DIY degree of difficulty 8 in 10. As I'm sure you've already discovered, one 10mm allen bolt's near impossible to reach. Some folks cut into the tranny tunnel from inside the car just to access this.

With this kinda project you gotta forget what the shop manual says about fiddly bits and mostly just attack the car pulling and heaving whatever gets in the way. Haint no finer way to spend an afternoon once ye git into it.

blankenship · #6 03-16-2008, 10:57 AM

do i have to RE-INSTALL the 4 bolts i removed yesterday that connect the engine/tranny? is there danger that with them removed the engine/tranny won't come out right together?

is it possible/likely that the two side motor mounts (rubber/steel things) i removed (next to the motor shocks) are the ONLY engine mounts on the car? is that what CTH350's trying to tell me?

the salvage yard dudes said they'd pull the motor out for me with a forklift. but now i'm wondering how it's going to get INTO my van (i've got a rear door that swings UP, and am wonderin' if the lift is going to be able to get close enough to my van to lay her in there...and whether my shop crane is going to be able to get close enough to pull her out!

JimFreeh · #7 03-16-2008, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Some mercedes have a mount that goes horizontally from the crossmember into a pocket in the back of the lower pan. I know a 240d has them but I am not aware that the 110 has them. I think there are two bolts holding it onto the crossmember.

Tom W

Tom,

That mount is peculiar to the diesels. Not an issue on a gas motor.

Jim

Chas H · #8 03-16-2008, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blankenship

do i have to RE-INSTALL the 4 bolts i removed yesterday that connect the engine/tranny? is there danger that with them removed the engine/tranny won't come out right together?

is it possible/likely that the two side motor mounts (rubber/steel things) i removed (next to the motor shocks) are the ONLY engine mounts on the car? is that what CTH350's trying to tell me?

the salvage yard dudes said they'd pull the motor out for me with a forklift. but now i'm wondering how it's going to get INTO my van (i've got a rear door that swings UP, and am wonderin' if the lift is going to be able to get close enough to my van to lay her in there...and whether my shop crane is going to be able to get close enough to pull her out!

The 2 top bolts plus the starter bolts should be enough to hold the trans to the engine. There are 2 mounts on the engine and one on the back of the trans plus the little shock absorbers. You might want to get a pick-up truck to haul the engine unless the fork lift has extended forks.

blankenship · #9 03-16-2008, 06:30 PM

got the motor!
taking the tranny with it is key. thanks.
next time'll be easier.

hopefully this baby's gonna go in my '77 280e. got complete motor with a good lookin' Solex 4A1 (which can go on one of my euro sedans) and a very newish looking starter + ignition coil, manifolds, etc, for $200. feelin' pretty good.

cth350 · #10 03-17-2008, 07:22 AM

I have a suburban with a tail gate. With care, a fork lift can get a motor fully into the back. But the next best thing is a couple of 2x4s in the back and a few lengths of 1/2" plastic pipe.

Lay the pipe down first so that it can roll from back to front. Put a few 2x4s running fore and aft on top of them. It helps that the 2x4s are only about 4 feet long. Arrange them like so:

----- ------
------ ------
----- ------
------ ------

Then lay the motor on it and give a gentil push. It helps to have a crowbar handy to remove the plastic pipes (but leave the wood).

To brace the motor from rocking, a tire on each side helps.

It also helps tie the motor down so that it stops sliding. You don't want to know what it can do when you stop short or hit something when it's not well secured.

of course it doesn't help that I'm posting this the day after you're done.

-CTH