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  #1  
Old 08-06-2001, 07:46 PM
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Generator, 190SL?

OK, I have the generator out of my 190SL. I ordered replacement brushes, but they are WAY smaller than the ones I have out of my generator. I called Ron Napp and ran it by him. He's SURE the ones he sent are correct. They are a little over a 1/2 inch wide, and mine are nearly 1" wide....

I must therefore assume that I have an incorrect Bosch generator??? So, does anyone know where I can get the right brushed for this?

Also, when I went by to pick up our 300E this afternoon, I showed the brushes to my mechanic. He said he thought there was still "room" on the brushes, and that I should look at the springs. Anyone know if the springs can be replaced??

Thanks,

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Bill Streep
San Antonio
'57 190SL (toy)
'08 S5500 (mine)
'09 CLK550 (wife's)
'06 SLK350 (daughter's)
'11 GLK350 (daughter's)
'03 CLK310 (spare)
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2001, 11:07 AM
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Bill ..... Just take the generator to an "Automotive Electrical" repair shop and have them rebuild it. They will clean up the commutator and install new brushes and bearings for $30-60 or so. This is a very standard generator.
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Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2001, 04:31 PM
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At Jim's suggestion, I took it and the Voltage Regulator over to an Alternator/Starter place. They know Bosch generators well, it appears. BTW, this is after I showed Randy (my mechanic) the brushes, and he thought there was plenty of "room" on them left. This guy took it back, cleaned up the brushes, adjusted the springs (he said they were fine), cleaned up the commutator, greased the bearings, etc, and ran it. It, along with the voltage generator checked out just fine! Said it passed both the high speed and the high load test just fine! Cool! And, he charged me $0!! So it goes back in... Now, if I can just get the pullys to line up right...
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Bill Streep
San Antonio
'57 190SL (toy)
'08 S5500 (mine)
'09 CLK550 (wife's)
'06 SLK350 (daughter's)
'11 GLK350 (daughter's)
'03 CLK310 (spare)
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  #4  
Old 08-13-2001, 07:26 PM
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Location: Memphis, TN
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How do you go about finding a alternator/starter shop? I couldn't find a listing in the phone book. Bill, were you having any problems with the generator that made you decide to pull it out? mine is working alright, but I may need to rebuild my starter.
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Hemant

'57 190SL
'86 560SEC AMG
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2001, 07:14 AM
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Hermat .... In our yellow pages, they are listed under "Automobile Electrical Service". If not there, look under "Alternator" or "Generator".

Pulling the gererator is hard, pulling the starter is even harder. If you are going to remove the generator, that is half of the work to get the starter out. After the generator and lower radiator hoses are removed, it is posible to remove the starter by lifting it out in front of the forward carburator. This is more than a couple of hour chore. I watched Don Drabik replace his starter this way at the Leadville convention and it took him some time.
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Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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  #6  
Old 08-14-2001, 08:27 AM
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Location: Memphis, TN
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is lifting the starter out up past the front carb easier than pulling it out from below with the car on a lift or jackstands? I did find a starter repair shop in town through references, so I will visit them tomorrow. Do most of them want the car as well or just the starter?
I did do a lot of reading about hot starts. Apparently the heat of the engine causes the starter to go bad after time. Especially if the wires and internal windings are corroded. Corroded wires conduct electricity very poorly when hot. A heat shield (at least on chevy's and fords) protects the starter from being incapacitated by the heat, but doesn't help an already diminished starter.
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'57 190SL
'86 560SEC AMG
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  #7  
Old 08-14-2001, 09:05 AM
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The rebuild shop does not want or need your car, just the starter and generator (also provide the regulator).

The starter will come out the bottom in two spots. You can remove the steering drag link, unbolt the engine mounts and shift the engine to the side and it will come out. The Mercedes dealership in Wichita KS took Robby's out between the frame rail and the fender, along side the exhaust pipe. He also had to drop the exhaust pipe, remove the rear engine mount and move the engine to the side. Trust me, the top front is the best alternative unless you plan to remove the entire engine.
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Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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  #8  
Old 08-14-2001, 11:06 AM
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Hemant,

When we pulled Don Drabik's starter in Leadville, we tried the method outlined by Jim, without much luck. Then we removed the funky radiator hose/fitting over the generator, and pulled it out there - MUCH easier. That's the only way to go, in my opinion. The other option is to remove a carb...
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Bill Streep
San Antonio
'57 190SL (toy)
'08 S5500 (mine)
'09 CLK550 (wife's)
'06 SLK350 (daughter's)
'11 GLK350 (daughter's)
'03 CLK310 (spare)
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  #9  
Old 08-14-2001, 11:13 AM
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Just re-read the above posts. Hemant, my generator light would "glow" at low and high speeds. Robby and Jim indicated to me that that is a symtom of bad brushes. Also, in the time spent on Don's starter, 90% of the removal time was spent trying to remove it from the bottom. Once we decided to try bringing it out the front, it was FAIRLY simple... And if you remove the generator, you'll have to remove the hoses anyway. While you're at it, remove the radiator (just 6 bolts, about 10 minutes work) and you'll have an easier time getting to the generator. Put new hoses on it and a new dose of Mercedes antifreeze. Replace the generator mounting bushings too... (cheap). Wow. Now you know what I've been doing the past few weeks! Along with the steering gear gaskets. Just got my cooling system back in place last night. Now for the carbs...
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Bill Streep
San Antonio
'57 190SL (toy)
'08 S5500 (mine)
'09 CLK550 (wife's)
'06 SLK350 (daughter's)
'11 GLK350 (daughter's)
'03 CLK310 (spare)
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  #10  
Old 08-14-2001, 11:49 AM
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Bill ... I mentioned removing the lower radiator hose. I thought that that included that funky little pipe.

With the radiator out, take it to a radiator shop to be back flushed and tested. It is a lot more convenient to re-core it when it is out than later. Just one more item of preventive maintenance to spend your money on.
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Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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  #11  
Old 08-14-2001, 05:34 PM
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Jim,

Sorry, didn't read that well... Poor Hemant, we keep coming up with preventive maintenance jobs for him. I haven't had my radiator re-cored 'cause so far, she runs cooooool. Thank goodness for SOMETHING that works well!

Hope to have everything back together this weekend, I'm basically down to the intake/exhaust & carbs. If you recollect, I've always had a problem with my back carb with a persistant vacuum leak. I'd tighten up the bolts, and it would last for 6-9 months and then I'd have to do it again. Well, I decided this time to replace the gasket to the head, and low-and-behold on one of the studs the threads don't match!! Someone who worked on this beast replaced a stud! And, of course, it's ENGLISH!! *&%$! The stud is hidden most of the time so the nut goes on blind and it was slightly smaller in diameter, so I never really noticed. Now I have the CORRECT nut, hopefully this time it will stay in place! Unbelievable!
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Bill Streep
San Antonio
'57 190SL (toy)
'08 S5500 (mine)
'09 CLK550 (wife's)
'06 SLK350 (daughter's)
'11 GLK350 (daughter's)
'03 CLK310 (spare)
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  #12  
Old 08-15-2001, 05:53 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 129
I really appreciate all of your help. Since this car is going to be a daily driver, all the preventive maintenance really helps. The generator seems fine. I put in a 300 watt sound system into the car a while back (it sounds beautiful, and was done without any major modifications to the car--all mounted in the trunk and glove box) and xtra bright headlights, and the battery still reads full charge after driving around for about an hour at night.

Well, I ended up cancelling my order for the shocks and seat covers because I need to save the money for the starter and generator rebuild. How much did the starter and generator rebuild end up costing you guys? I haven't taken them out yet, but I am thinking of having it sent out since I don't know the quality of work at the 2 rebuild places that I found in town, or SL ******** will trade a rebuilt starter for $165.
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'57 190SL
'86 560SEC AMG
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2001, 07:56 AM
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The starter rebuild should be about $50-75 if the Bendix drive is OK. If you need a new drive, it will be an additional $90 or so. There was a thread here a while back looking for the cheapest source and it was here at the "Parts Shop". The generator should cost about the same $50-75. I would use one of the local shops. Starters and generators are very simple and basic items that a local shop can do a well as anyone. If you "want" to send them out, I will recommend the shop in Wichita that rebuilt Robby's on our trip (Robby can provide his phone number). He is a very knowledgeable car-guy who knows old electrical equipment.
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Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2001, 10:31 AM
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Hemant,

When I called around looking for a place to take my generator, 2 shops kept coming up as recommendations when I mentioned "old Bosch generator". When I called one of the shops that was right down the street from my mechanic, the guy immediately knew what I was talking about. In any case, as Jim says, they rebuilding starters and generators is for a shop that does them all the time is no big deal. Hindsight being 20-20, that's what I SHOULD have done when my starter went out 3 years ago.

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Bill Streep
San Antonio
'57 190SL (toy)
'08 S5500 (mine)
'09 CLK550 (wife's)
'06 SLK350 (daughter's)
'11 GLK350 (daughter's)
'03 CLK310 (spare)
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