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  #1  
Old 05-28-2008, 11:36 AM
Lexxani's Avatar
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117 timing chain

In this time of elevated fuel prices Ive become more aware of the horrible fuel economy of my 450 SL-C, although its a weekend car, I figured it would still be wise to invest in some parts to improve the performance and efficiency.

While compiling a parts list I encountered something unexpected. . .

Has anyone ever had a timing chain acquire enough shack that it would rub the block? I noticed a sound coming from my engine when I would start it after its been sitting for a while, it sounded to me like a camshaft bearing that was in need of attention. The sound would go away after a minute or so and would not be consistent (ie sitting at cold idle it would come and go). It would go away with an increase in rpms.

I pulled my valve covers and this is what I found on the drivers side head. I also have a rail that needs replacement in that spot, as its damaged.

I aligned the camshaft on the passenger side and noticed the marking on the drivers side camshaft marking was out of alignment. by approximately 2mm. The harmonic balancer markings showed 10 degrees.

Now I have no idea when the timing chain was last changed and otherwise the car is in excellent shape, however the p.o. rarely drove the car so i suspect that its been a decade or two since anyone had been the engine.

Lesson here- check your timing chain. . .

Drivers side timing chain

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". . .back before accountants designed cars"

-Current Stable-
'78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen>
'85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison>
'98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel>
Long Gone...
'74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4
'83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe
'98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320
'88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2008, 07:11 AM
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Location: brisbane,Qld.Australia
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I've seen a couple of engines like that,both had blown up because the slack was so great valves were hitting pistons.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2008, 11:56 AM
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Im fortunate to have caught it when I did...Im really excited now to install the new chain, I can not wait to see the improvement in efficiency. . .

Has anyone has any experiences with the Beck/Arnley timing chain for this model?

Im wondering if it may age less then the Iwis chain, which I understand is OE. These are the only two chains that are made (AFAIK) for the M117.
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". . .back before accountants designed cars"

-Current Stable-
'78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen>
'85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison>
'98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel>
Long Gone...
'74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4
'83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe
'98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320
'88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel
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  #4  
Old 05-29-2008, 12:39 PM
Brian Ostosh
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 504
either manufacturer

Just get that chain in soon.
Upper guide rails too.
Adjust valves, new oil rail plastic.
This is all routine, normal stuff.
D.I.Y. or hire out ?
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2008, 06:00 PM
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Location: brisbane,Qld.Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexxani View Post
Im fortunate to have caught it when I did...Im really excited now to install the new chain, I can not wait to see the improvement in efficiency. . .

Has anyone has any experiences with the Beck/Arnley timing chain for this model?

Im wondering if it may age less then the Iwis chain, which I understand is OE. These are the only two chains that are made (AFAIK) for the M117.

It's just a regular 3/8 duplex chain. I buy it in bulk with joiners. Mostly I buy renolds but as far as quality goes there is no difference.It all depends on where you shop.
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  #6  
Old 05-29-2008, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad6.3 View Post
It's just a regular 3/8 duplex chain. I buy it in bulk with joiners. Mostly I buy renolds but as far as quality goes there is no difference.It all depends on where you shop.
ahhh. . .thats what I was thinking, thanks for the insight. Im gonna do the chain myself, it doesent seem hard, just kind of a PITA. . .general concept behind the chain are simple, just time consuming.

The d@mn chain rails are also getting replaced while im in there they look tobacco colored instead of white, and one is cracked. I figure while im in there I should probally address that as well. The oil tubes look good, but I plan on replacing them anyways.

Im also thinking of replacing the guide seals..

Does anyone have a DIY on doing the M117 valve adjustment?
__________________
". . .back before accountants designed cars"

-Current Stable-
'78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen>
'85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison>
'98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel>
Long Gone...
'74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4
'83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe
'98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320
'88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2008, 12:12 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 3,386
The M117 has hydraulic compensators, aka lifters, so no adjustment is needed. They do need oil pressure to take up the initial clearance.

The oil tubes don't need to be replaced, just the plastic pieces that fit into the cam towers. once you replace the holders, use a rubber or plastic hammer and lightly tap the oilers into the holes. Make sure there are no broken plastic bits in the holes. Use carb cleaner spray to make sure the pipes are clean

I did a writeup on replacing my timing chain and guides.

Chain Guides Replaced

It's an M116 but they are alike.

I hope this helps.
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Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

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  #8  
Old 05-30-2008, 08:01 AM
Lexxani's Avatar
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that was what I thought about the hydraulic compensators, I looked at them and did not see any adjustment points, however since one other poster mentioned it I figured it would be a worthy question to address. I have one oiler fitting with a hairline crack, nowever I observed my right bank (through the oil filler cap) oiling as it is suppose to, Im gonna replace them anyways, afterall im already in there.

Thanks for the write up, Ive read the posted one in the DIY section, however the more reading the better. It is always valuable to hear someone's little tricks and issues they have encountered while doing a job like this.

Wbain-what did you do to correct that timing discrepency on the cam? Did you just move the chain foward a tooth?

__________________
". . .back before accountants designed cars"

-Current Stable-
'78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen>
'85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison>
'98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel>
Long Gone...
'74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4
'83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe
'98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320
'88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel
Reply With Quote
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