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#1
08-18-2008, 08:42 PM
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w116 350se to w108 280se engine swap **UPDATE**
Thanks again to all that has responded and a special thanks to bwostosh sp? for the engine supports. I am approximatley 70% finished with the engine swap. All that remains is connecting all fluid lines and the electrical. I will post a few pictures when I finish.
Does anyone by chance have a wiring diagram for the transistorized ignition and engine electrical system for a 1979 w116 350se or 450se? My email address is z31v928@yahoo.com 
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#2
08-20-2008, 12:15 AM
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Anyone? any help is greatly appreciated...
I am unsure of the following wires: green wire on the negative terminal of the coil green/yellow wire on the 4 pin plug that connects to the ignition module black/red wire on the positive terminal of the coil I believe the ignition somehow controls the fuel pump? I think it may prevent the fuel pump from running when the engine is off. Any ideas and/or opinions are appreciated.
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#3
08-20-2008, 10:02 PM
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2 emails sent. -CTH
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#4
08-20-2008, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
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#5
08-22-2008, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
__________________
 Don't Chrome them; polish them
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#6
08-23-2008, 08:14 PM
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I am running into a few issues with this engine swap; my issues are as follows:
1. the engine does not seem to be parallel in the engine compartment [/ /] and I am not certain which side the longer of the two engine supports belong. I have swiched the two mounting arms and the engine sits straight but is offset to the right [ | |] is this correct? 2. the fan from the 350se engine is hitting the 108's radiator. I have noticed the 108's radiator fan is very close to the radiator and is a different design campared with the 350se. Is the fan from the 108 V8 the same as the inline 6 fan for the 108? 3. the 350se exhaust manifolds touch the 108's frame and have a very tight clearance. I suppose I am now looking for the following parts from any 108/109 with the m116 or m117 engine: L/R exhaust manifolds fan blade and clutch correct radiator with shroud and oil cooler in decent condition lower steel oil pan I really need these parts so I would be happy to purchase them from anyone who has any of the mentioned parts available. BTW Thanks again to Tony H and Jengasan for the pictures
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#7
08-24-2008, 01:59 AM
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Progress has come to a complete stop; I decided to remove the valve covers to inspect the condition of the timing chain and guides. To my horror the chain is so slack that it has about an inch of play on each side, not to mention a big chunk of orange plastic which I am guessing is part of a guide just sitting on the timing chain waiting to be pulled under the cam sprocket. I will definately post a picture tomorrow.
I have heard somewhere on this forum that there are metal timing chain guides still available for this engine. If this is correct where can I get a complete set of guides, a high quality timing chain and a timing chain tensioner?
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#8
08-24-2008, 05:22 PM
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I felt sick to the stomach after looking at these this morning. I could only imagine the damage if this engine ran just a bit longer. This engine was saved barely because the broken guide got stuck.
 Driver's side chain slack  Driver's side broken guide  Passenger side chain slack
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#9
08-24-2008, 05:40 PM
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On a slightly brighter note, the engine is in place (pardon the oily mess) however it is not sitting straight. Any ideas?
    If I had any idea how involved this process was not including cost and the limited availability of parts I would have tried to repair the old inline 6. I am unfortunately too far to turn back now... anyways, does anyone have thier the air cleaner off? If so, how does the engine sit in the engine compartment? Does it sit at an angle, is it at an off set, or neither?
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#10
08-25-2008, 11:21 AM
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Do you have new motor mounts? They collapse over time, getting the manifolds closer to the frame. Under the best of circumstances, a v8 is a very tight fit.
What's wrong with the oil pan you have? The SL/SLC oil pan is once piece and the sum is a bit smaller. The sedan oil pan is two pieces. Either way, the engine comes out of the car (or the subframe holding up the front of the car) has to come off to replace the whole pan. Or do you just need the little portion (lower pan)? The oil cooler for the v8 is rather essential. Any 3.5 or 4.5 W108 or W109 car can supply the necessary radiator+oil cooler. The straight 6 cars (and the 6.3) have the oil cooler on the wrong side.
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#11
08-25-2008, 11:24 AM
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BTW, are you seeing the steering box get in the way of the manifold on that side? Can you steer full left and full right w/o interference? -CTH
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#12
08-25-2008, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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#13
02-20-2012, 02:10 PM
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How did this project end up for you? I'm about to do a similar transplant , move a 1973 W116 350 SE engine to a 1968 W108 250 S.
What modifications did you have to do to make it work properly and what extra parts did you have to purchase?
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