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#1
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Getting my 450SLC 5.0 painted
I'm in the progress of getting my 450SLC 5.0 painted. After getting it registered, I decided to take it to David's place so that he can hook up his CO machine and tune the car properly.
Once we got done, I decided to stop by the local Maaco to get talk to the owner about getting my car painted. The owner (Mak) is a chemist by trade and a really easy guy to deal with. He has a great crew and does good work. We walked around the car and I pinpointed the areas that needed attention. I also informed him that I wanted to go back to the original Icon Gold color. He has a full Sherwin Williams paint mixer but could not get the paint mixture from the computer so we agreed that I buy the base. I picked it up from from Dupont. He also had to do some rust repair but the only part that I bought becuase I prefered that the body man not work it is the ribbed section on the drivers side rear quarter. This was purchased from K&K. He let me spend an afternoon at the shop to take the car apart and will bring someone in on the weekend to help me put it back together. The car is now in for final masking but the painter was not in today which is a shame because today was a beautiful day to paint. I hope to see it painted by the end of the week so that I can put it back together on the weekend. Here are some pictures: When I picked it up from Scott's house. After bringing it home and giving it a wash After taking it to the Maaco I marked the dings that needed attention with some masking tape Some pretty serious damage to the wheel arch This looks like it was repaired improperly in the past, a new panel will replace it. After stip down: After some body work to repair the dings and adding new sheet metal. Masked and ready for painting More pictures will come after painting.
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With best regards Al |
#2
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Looks like a nice SLC. It will look sharp with fresh paint
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#3
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You are painting your car much the way that I did - I did the prep (but I did the body work too), I took the parts off, the painter painted, and I put the parts back on.
I suspect that the best time to hit Maaco up with a job like this is in the winter, and with a slow economy. They will spend time on it and will deal. But it sounds like you found yourself a "good" Maaco. Your picture of the front fender rust just behind the wheel - If I could have welded, I would have bought the patch from K+K but I did a credible job with sheetmetal and body filler (and a little Bondo sculpting, learned when I lived in Chicago, in high school, and broke) on the ribbed parts. I very strongly suspect that rust in this area comes from three sources: 1. Old, failed seals between the inner fender plate and outer fender (just to the rear of the wheel) 2. Dirt allowed to collect behind the tire (especially in the winter) 3. Plugged body drains (in the extreme) In my case, I'm pretty sure that the fender was straightened out in an accident and the body putty seal under the plate and the rubber around the plate weren't properly reinstalled. I bought both at the dealer and I'm confident that the inside of my fenders will be dry (and I undercoated the heck out of everything, too). I hope you will look into this because the seals weren't expensive, weren't hard to install, and without them in good shape doing their jobs the same thing will happen again. 28 year old rubber and plastic can't be good. Same goes for: 1. The door handle seals 2. The bumper seals on the sides of the car (REALLY important, don't ask how I know this) 3. the trunk handle and license plate light assembly 4. The taillight rubber seals (I've seen a lot of MB's rust in this area because of bad seals) I think it's a good idea to take the cowl grilles behind the hood off and clean inside (I removed these and they were painted separately, the grilles are very delicate and need to be hand-buffed). Most paint shops don't want to get involved these days with removing trim - A. They don't know how anymore (virtually all new cars are mask jobs) and B. It's risky. I noticed that you didn't take off the window trim. This was difficult, but worthwhile for me (I used clones of the vinyl wedge tools dealers would have used). My trim was cloudy and I was on a budget for my 380SL, so I removed the pieces, stripped off the anodization and polished everything, and reinstalled them . The only pieces I couldn't salvage were the lower corners - not expensive. While I was "in there" I cleaned out about 20 years of dirt and crap under that trim - which is a rust-promoting moisture magnet.
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#4
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I stopped by today and took a look. The paint is on the car and I have a few pictures taken from my cellphone.
This cellphone takes horrible pictures which is fine because I can't make a call from my camera.
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With best regards Al |
#5
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Wow ... your car is looking very good!! It's making me think of a Bond car. 007
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#6
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Nice, Alabbasi. That'll be a real looker when you're finished with it.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#7
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what color is that? Is it a MB color or something they mixed up? Looks great.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#8
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It's a DB colour and it's called IKON Gold, it's very very 70's.
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With best regards Al |
#9
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whats DB?
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#10
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With best regards Al |
#11
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I was thinking MB, never thought of DB.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#12
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Sorry, I mean to say that the paint code itself is called DB-419 which is Ikon gold.
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With best regards Al |
#13
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BTW, you have great taste in paint color. My car is similar, and not quite a naturally-occurring MB color
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#14
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Looks excellent! I'm glad you kept it the original color. It is a period piece from the '70s, and deserves to have a color that fits its provenance.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#15
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its a great color.
to be honest, never a big fan of slc model, but you might be changing my mind. i have driven one years ago (mechanic's loaner car), and it certainly had power (only a 450, but a rocket) and a nice ride (longer wheelbase than sl?) they seem to be going up in price from a few years ago. is there a new appreciation for all older mercedes as the new ones get more expensive, less interesting/reliable? (oh, and is the back seat at all functional? gas mileage? 10? on premium? - maybe the ladyfriend might like one, is why i ask) thx
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"The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread." |
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