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#1981
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That's part of the patina
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With best regards Al |
#1982
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#1983
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Slider jaw
While I had the door panel off doing the wood refreshing I figured it was time to deal with a broken rear window slider.
Panel and regulator assembly removed. Four nuts, disassembly of the switch electrical connection, some twisting, turning, finagling and a wee bit of cursing. The broken slider. What it is supposed to look like.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#1984
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Slider jaw- The Sequel
Old rivet from a previous repair. Note the grinding marks.
Old rivet ground away and removed. New slider installed and rivet peened. A couple of tips for re-installing the slider. Disassemble the slider before you peen the end. Give it a dip in some hot water to soften it, pry gently on the plastic clips and remove the rubber "spacers". I cut a "X" in the rivet with a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel. This reduces the force needed to spread the rivet. Less chance for an "oops!". You can see the marks in the last picture. A small, shallow hole using a drill will work also. Place a bit of metal stock (I use an old king pin) into a vise standing up. Try to use one which barely fits into the plastic of the slider. Seat it solidly in the vise. Don't try to hold it in place using only the clamping force of the vise jaws. It WILL slide and turn sideways! Have a helper available to hold the regulator assembly. Use a center punch to begin the peen and finish with a good drift punch. Don't go crazy with the hammer selection. You don't need a three pound sledge but you also don't want to use some twelve ounce tack hammer. Re-assemble the slider, slip the regulator into the door and feed the slider into the window rail before you line up the mounting studs. Use a synthetic lube on the track. Using a petroleum based lubricant will degrade the nylon slider and cause premature failure. Replace the vapor barrier. This will cut down on the amount of dust and grit attracted to the slider jaw and track.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now Last edited by Mike D; 03-26-2018 at 02:18 PM. Reason: Changed "grinding" to "cutting". |
#1985
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Mike, are you doing side work? want to put a Pagoda back together ???
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With best regards Al |
#1986
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Quote:
Of course when Summer hits here, I'll be glad to do the inside the house stuff. Remodeling, painting, kitchen (Uggh!) upgrades, that sort of thing. But, you know, as the song goes, "If you got the money, I've got the time".
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#1987
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Mike, I shot you a text message. Call me when you get a chance and I'll give you details.
Thanks
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With best regards Al |
#1988
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Good luck with that. I don't have a cell phone! I'm a bit of a Luddite.
Try the private message function.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#1989
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Piddled about a bit with a W126. Didn't get too much accomplished but I am prepped for next week.
Replaced the "guide" arm on the sunroof, cleaned, adjusted and lubricated the mechanism. Filled the engine mounts and transmission mount with urethane in preparation for replacement next week depending on how long they take to fully cure. Usually about a week depending on the weather. The tubes sticking up are for the mounting holes. They are just some plastic tubes wrapped in aluminum foil. When the urethane sets up sufficiently to retain its shape they will be removed. The mesh in the engine mounts is some fiberglass mesh I had. Probably not needed but I figure it will add some resistance to the urethane being squeezed out. I'll trim it when the urethane cures a bit more. No point in adding mesh to the trans mount as the force is applied differently. Shot the next to last coat on the wood trim (I hope!). It's been extremely windy here this past week so the re-finish has been on hold. Coat #6.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#1990
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It seems like ages since I last updated this thread. It's mainly because work has been a little busy and I've been buying other brands and posting to Youtube instead. A couple of weeks ago, I did pick up another Mercedes. This time it's a 2001 SLK 320 that I got from the salvage auction in Arkensas. It was hit in the front but pretty lightly and will need the bumper, grill, hood and one light replaced or fixed. I expected it to run when I got it but it did not. This is somewhat annoying given that it must have ran when it rear ended whatever it hit.
It any case, here's a video of the the car for any who are interested: https://youtu.be/OW3-3tqNkX4
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With best regards Al |
#1991
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G'day Al, Still buying Orphans I see. . Possibly a bad connection for the battery unless someone has swiped the AAM out of it. Those are popular with the older members of the local merc Club here, although a local car dealer has a SLK 55 ....
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#1992
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Hey Ron! yep. I tried pristine , low mileage cars for a while. They're a bit boring and you don't want to drive them in case they get a scratch. The issue was that someone spliced the wiring to the starter and installed an immobilizer. The video link shows where they went.
Best wishes
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With best regards Al |
#1993
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Quote:
And how many cars you got stashed away there? is that a Roller or a Bentley next to the Lift ? |
#1994
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The car has a factory alarm and transponder key. It also came with a decent factory stereo but judging by the heavy duty wiring, they had a bass speaker big enough to break the spot welds loose.
I have too many cars Ron, I might have a problem. Problems rather , a few of which are the 6.75 liter type.
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With best regards Al |
#1995
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Al, I think James May would like a word with you.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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