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#1231
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Al,
Only you would say these words and not be sarcastic! I've been doing a lot of work on my Jeep XJ when I can. I took the seats and carpet out, and I'm patching some minor rust spots on the floor before I have major rust-through. In the process of working on my Jeep though, the 300M radiator cracked, so now I need to switch projects as the 300M is the wife's DD. I should have the old one out & new one in before Thursday, which is when my neighbor will be over after I am done working to put the 3" lift on his XJ!
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#1232
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Can't wait to see the results my man! If only you were closer I'd help with all the blasted sanding to be done.
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#1233
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no,it's ex UK and has only been in OZ since 2005. Amazing car to drive because it feels brand new. My 380SE is low mileage too with only 106,000 on it and it's ex japan . These high compression 380's feel like 500's to drive in total contrast to the OZ and US low comp,low power version.
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#1234
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Pretty interesting, I remember my mechanic back in London taking me home in a 380SE. That car had guts.
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With best regards Al Last edited by alabbasi; 12-29-2011 at 10:13 PM. |
#1235
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I guess since those "guys" posess intestines it means the car had guts too eh mate?
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#1236
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Oh dear, unfamiliar keyboard. Sorry.
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With best regards Al |
#1237
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Guys ???
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#1238
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Primer is one. Foolishly got one run under the mirror that I foolishly should have taken off. This stuff is pretty nice. It's an epoxy primer / 2k primer hybrid so you can spray it directly to metal and it's sandable. I'll give it an hour or so before I come back and take care of that run. Now it's time for a cup of tea.
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With best regards Al |
#1239
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Well, it's mostly done... I ran into some craziness when shooting my first coat and got a pile of runs in the base coat. I'm was not sure what the deal was but then I dialed the regulator down to 20psi and reduced the base at 2:1 instead of 1:1 and got it t o flow properly.
You'd think that was the end of it but then the paint reacted in two areas (one on the hood an one on the rear panel) were I applied bondo. Even though I applied a sealer. I tried to correct it but in the end, I gave up. I'll have to redo it later.
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With best regards Al |
#1240
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Quote:
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#1241
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I try to shoot Nason, I've shot PPG and Sherwin and I like Nason more. I've never had these kinds of problems unti recently. Maybe I should stop painting in the winter with the garage door open
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With best regards Al |
#1242
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A buddy of mine got together and helped another friend out with his 85 190D which had a loose front end.
We pulled it up on the lift last week and could see that the bushings and ball joint was all torn up on the right side. I ordered a left side lower control arm which has all bushings in place along with the ball joint and sway bar bushings. When I got started, we saw that the right side control arm bushing was also bad so we ended up doing that as well, along with the right side tie rod and steering damper. We used a (borrowed) factory style spring compressor to compress the spring but ran into issues when put everything together and decompressed the spring which did not sit well on the bottom of the control arm. A lot of fiddling and then finally renting external spring compressors got the spring off so that we could pull it apart, then use the factory compressor to compress it again and mount it back. After that effort, everything else was went together easily including the lower control arm on the right side. We're probably going to tackle the rear suspension next weekend, then my friend can buy a set of tires and get it aligned.
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With best regards Al |
#1243
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I finally worked on one of my own cars for a change. I have replaced the engine mounts in the 6.3,pulled the manifold off the Right side and cleaned up both mainfolds and cam covers in anticipation of getting them wet blasted (best ever way of cleaning alloy bar none) .I'm going to make a new heater connection pipe for the heater feed .The original had a tap brazed into it which was blocked olid with crud... Not good when i was in Southern parts in winter with snow on the ground..
so.I'll dispense with the damn tap which must have been there for years . I have had this 6.3 since 2001 and the tap was on it when I bought it. Heater doesn't leak so I assume the taps are seized under the dash. i have been thinking about fitting a later compressor from a W126 Series 2 for the aircon and a bigger condensor to cope with global warming . two days to change engine mounts.... |
#1244
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what brand of engine mounts did you install ? Do aftermarket ones work in the long run?
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#1245
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I was actually wondering the same thing. The last time I spoke to the dealer about engine mounts, they wanted $500+ for a kit. I spoke to Franz at big toys and he said that he planned on making some urethane ones at some point but did not have a date or price.
Ron I need to go through the list you provided on the m-100 forum to help resolve my over fueling problems on the 6.3.
__________________
With best regards Al |
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