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  #1  
Old 10-02-2008, 04:49 PM
Monomer's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Detroit, MI
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w115 radio schematics?

I feel like I'm missing a blown fuse somewhere, as I'm not getting power.



The fuse blocks are very minimal on this car, and suggestions?

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:11 PM
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Location: Des Moines, WA
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The 230 schematic shows it as fuse 14 (8 amps), located on the left fender. The antenna fuse is 13 and also on the left fender altho the schematic picture shows it as part of the fuse box. It gets power from all three positions of the key, ACC, Run and Start, via wire 30 which is the battery bus.

The radio wire is 1.5mm and is red with a green stripe.

My 250C had a couple extra fuse holders scattered around the engine compartment. IIRC, there was one 2 fuse holder on the left fender and maybe two 2 fuse units on a bracket on the firewall on the rightish side.

The PDF is 1.44Mb if you want a copy.

Also, check the ground, it should work with just the antenna plugged in if the antenna is properly mounted but there should be a separate ground for the radio. It looks like the ground is shared with the cigar lighter.


Michael
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2008, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250 Coupe View Post
The 230 schematic shows it as fuse 14 (8 amps), located on the left fender. The antenna fuse is 13 and also on the left fender altho the schematic picture shows it as part of the fuse box. It gets power from all three positions of the key, ACC, Run and Start, via wire 30 which is the battery bus.

The radio wire is 1.5mm and is red with a green stripe.

My 250C had a couple extra fuse holders scattered around the engine compartment. IIRC, there was one 2 fuse holder on the left fender and maybe two 2 fuse units on a bracket on the firewall on the rightish side.

The PDF is 1.44Mb if you want a copy.

Also, check the ground, it should work with just the antenna plugged in if the antenna is properly mounted but there should be a separate ground for the radio. It looks like the ground is shared with the cigar lighter.


Michael
sure is, and the lighter works...



I need to get a new multi-meter, I kinda blew this one up.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2008, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monomer View Post
sure is, and the lighter works...



I need to get a new multi-meter, I kinda blew this one up.
I once loaned an electrical engineer my nearly new Fluke 77. He measured 26,000 volts with it. He lived, the Fluke did not. He bought me a new one.

Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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  #5  
Old 10-14-2008, 01:05 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Detroit, MI
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still a mystery.



radio worked fine, I recall having the batt. unplugged and upon plugging it in - it no longer played music (but - the clock works...)


I thought for sure it was a fuse, but now i'm just lost. New radio - still does not turn on. every things getting power at the radio end. Light on radio blinks, but faceplate gets no power.


rear taillight (fuse 8 on the block) keeps blowing fuses. I'm gonna trace that out sometime this week
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  #6  
Old 10-14-2008, 06:39 AM
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If it's a newer electronic radio VS the original, it will have a yellow wire for the clock and memory that is 12V all the time and a red wire that powers the radio itself. The red wire will have it's own inline fuse and should be powered via the acc/run position of the key.

Could be that the radio needs a code to turn on after disconnecting the battery but it doesn't sound like it from your description.

I'm too far away from my schematic right now to help with the tail light but you might check the bulb first.

Michael
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Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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  #7  
Old 10-15-2008, 12:11 AM
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I just finally wired in the replacement radio that has been sitting in the dash this summer, uininstalled since I've owned the car (original stereo was missing and wiring harness - if there ever was one- had been cut). I also found out my little center dash speakers were dead.

Mine has an aftermarket, thick red self-fused wire running right from the battery to power the radios memory. I used a multimeter to check for voltage at key on/off and find the ground. It took a while but I seem to remember the power wires TO the radio were black & brown. You could use the constant 12v to power the radio at least to see if the radio at least powers on.

As for the taillight, I had some problems with fuses blowing on my right rear as well. Found a bad socket. I was able to fix it sort of temporarily with electrical tape, but had to replace the entire taillight assembly to completely cure it. Corrosion in the lamp sockets and fuse box terminals also seems to be common on older cars like these...this could cause a lot of intermittent electrical problems.

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