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#1
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Rust Protection
Hi all,
I would like to protect my W111 Coupe from rusting. This would consist of - spraying inside all the chassis cavities, doors etc a kind of wax like Dinitrol; - spraying all the undercarriage with a special coating to protect from salt. Where can I have this done in the Washington DC area? Thanks in advance |
#2
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I thought that was a UK product. highly regarded.
mak |
#3
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Is that something that a detailing shop would normally do? That's where I would start.
__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#4
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Waxoyl. Look at any Land Rover site....works very well. made in the UK, available stateside. my be applied at home
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#5
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Don't y'all have rustproofing shops down their? Here in Canada, we have several major chains plus a slew of local shops. Probably a dozen or more in our small town. Some products are better than others.
Main ones up here are Krown and Rust-Check. Costs about $109 for full spray. Ziebart used to be here, but local one closed years ago. But they are still in other areas including USA - Check here: http://www.ziebart.com/index.php They have one near you!
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#6
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FYI:
Clear coats protect better than conventional finishes, allowing new car paint to hold up many years longer. Older cars painted with a conventional finish will face more problems with oxidation than vehicles painted with clear coats. |
#7
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He's talking about under the car and where he can get his coupe rust proofed.
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#8
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Yeah, I was looking into a Krown location in the USA, but had no luck. If you find one that does something similar in the DC area, pass along the name.
__________________
Nathan '74 280C - gone to a new home for the finishing it deserves. '64 356SC '74 914 2.0 |
#9
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When you start thinking about "spray-on" rust protection, remember THIS! The "Kiss of Death" for all old Mercedes!
Go with the Waxyoil or another option is chainsaw bar/chain oil applied with a sprayer. |
#10
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Quote:
I don't think you can go by one post. That cars was probably toast before the Ziebart was applied! In Canada almost ALL cars receive spray type rust treatment either from new or down the road a bit. New MBs are already protected with a Waxoyl type product. But, MB dealers up here now recommend that even new cars are taken to Krown or Rust Check for protection. Same is true of several of the Japanese car makers. The material sprayed, is not a wax like product - it is a very thin (low viscosity) product like penetrating oil. It finds it ways into very small crevices. If it reached a drain hole, it would just run out. And it does! It drips all over the place - I have to park on the lawn to avoid marking the paved driveway for the first few days. I have owned my 300D for 19 years and it has been treated every year. Still get some rust at wheel wells where the spray washes off. The SL only gets sprayed every now and then, but it seldom sees rain, never mind snow Our E-class gets Krown treatment every year. Dealer recommended this because these cars have had some rust issues - mostly fixed under warranty luckily. My best test, was a 1995 Chev Tahoe which we owned for 10 years and which was written off in an accident. That vehicle had been driven in snow and salt for it's entire life! Never any sign of rust and when the accident exposed the sheet metal inside the doors and pillar, it was still like new - just a light sticky coating. It received Krown treatment every year from new. How Ziebart compares, I don't know, but I imagine they should be something similar. But, I would ask around the new car dealers and see if they do it or have a recommendation in DC. I found somethjing in the Buffalo area http://www.rustop.net/locator/ Or take a drive up to Canada!
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#11
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If there is any existing surface rust present at all you should only use a petroleum type product. Any coating that seals the surface eventually speeds up the under laying rust. The petroleum products tend to saturate the rust blocking new oxygen from the rust. This tends to slow the oxidation process way down.
Once oxide forms on metal it is almost impossible to truly stop it other than removal. An additional problem is the factory applied coating. Once rust gets established underneath that the retained moisture by the factory coating causes havoc as well. |
#12
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I have seen tests done in the UK where Dinitrol was the leader. it's similar to Ziebart but only dinitrol is used by NATO and our armed forces. Unfortunately the local supplier won't sell me any because of "Security concerns" because they supply the military. I use a local product called INOX which is dinitrol knockoff. As Graham says,if you want constant protection you must use it all the time.
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