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67 250S New Project Question
Hi Guys, Just bought a 67 250s a few months ago. European delivery car with original papers, single owner CA car. 130k miles. After 4 years of not being actively driven, it started right up and was taken right in. Did a coolant flush, new sparks, tune up and radiator hoses. Not so needy to get going. Just put on new white walls. Clay barred the car and nearly broke my arms off doing it. Minimal rust. Happy with purchase.
Issues. 1. Smokes a little on acceleration. Any DIY things I can try relating to the valves? Any idea what a bad diapram would run me? 2. The temp has been on the 150 hash but has run a little hot the other day, follow by a small pool of coolant directly under the passenger side of the radiator. Noticed a overflow tube directly from the radiator cap just above the pool. Not leaks found otherwise. What is the normal temp? 87deg C? Could this be early sign of radiator or water pump issue? 3. Looking to refinish the interior wood trim. Any and all info on that would be great. 4. Need the amber beehive turn signal lenses, anyone know where I can find these? 5. Need new muffler, any suggestions on where to buy? FYI, want to replace the air filter with a K&N but found the cataloged part does not fit (E-2380). Come to find that the E-2530 has very similar dimensions, cataloged for a 66 230s. Ordered it so we will see next week. Also changed the sealed beams lights to sylvanias 5006 and 5001 (hi). CLR outdoor furniture cleaner is great for vinyl. Mother's clay bar kit works well. |
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I've hung a few mufflers on the cars that I've had/have and have just used biggest "look-a-like" generic one that the local muffler shop had or could get, that would fit and look OE. Been happy so far. I would warn you about going to places like Midas and Mieneke.
The smoking may go away as you get some miles on it. I'd suggest a hot oil change and substitute 1/2 a quart of engine oil for 1/2qt of ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Then start putting some miles on it with varying load and speed. As you're loading and unloading the rings, with the ATF on board, they'll get broken loose and sort of cleaned....if they are sludged or carboned up. I've had good success with this. I had an engine that hadn't been run in something like 25 years, and it was seized. I carefully broke it loose, then got oil pressure, then started it. In a matter of weeks, it went from running decent with a lot of blow-by, to running fantastic with almost no blow-by. The car should really have an 80*C thermostat. If you don't know what's in there, replace it with an OE Behr or Wahler. It should sit right on the 80C mark, maybe slightly higher. Otherwise, you've probably got a radiator that needs to be rodded out because the tubes are closed up with corrosion. The other key to your cooling system is the radiator fan clutch. If it's no longer sensing tempurature and locking up, you won't get good cooling because it will just be coasting along and not spinning at engine speed. These engines love to burn exhaust valves, so do yourself a favor and adjust your valves asap. It doesn't take that long to do (surprisingly). Can't help you on the wood or turn sigs. Who needs a gym membership when there's vintage Mercedes sheetmetal to clay bar! Now that you've got the finish opened up with clay bar, go back over it with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze, by hand, and then seal it up with their Gold Class, or #26 wax.
__________________
1966 W111 250SEC:
DB268 Blaugrün/electric sunroof/4 on-the-floor/4.5 V-8 rear axle Last edited by Todd Miller; 12-14-2008 at 12:49 AM. |
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Thanks for the quick reply Todd.I will look into the hot oil change now. Can you give me some direction on adjusting the valves as DYI?
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Hello,
The original thermostat was a 79 deg. C. It should be stamped on the part. Mercedes style mufflers have basically no back pressure on these cars. They are straight through. You can drop a marble in at the front and it will roll out the tail pipe at the other end. Many aftermarket replacement mufflers have baffles creating back pressure and rob a bit of power. When refinishing the wood try not to sand it. The top veneer is very thin and a little sanding will usually go through the veneer to a different colored base wood. You can ruin the wood with a short bit of sanding. Just use chemiical stripper and some soft steel wool to remove the old finish. The originial finish was a chocolate matte surface which showed some grain. Some stain will be needed to duplicate the original color. It is unlike the brilliant mirror smooth glossy finish used in the later MB cars. You may choose to change to a glossier smooth finish for your own taste. If so, apply enough clear so you can sand the clear coat (not the wood) between coats with some 400 and 600 grit sand paper. Eventually you will get a mirror smooth finish. Many modern different wood refinishing systems will work and will most likely be more durable than the original. Pick a system and experiment before you begin. On a euro car the 80 deg C mark is just above the normal operating temperature of a 79deg. c. If the radiator is overfilled the fluid will expand and run out the overflow when it is warmed up. Notice the bulge in the top tank when looking in the cap opening. This is the cold fill level. Make sure you have a thermostat installed first. Leaving it out will cause problems since it is a dual acting thermostat, which closes one passage when it opens another.
__________________
Joe Alexander Blacklick, Ohio 1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday) 1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army) 1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold) 1969 280SL Pagoda 1973 280SEL 4.5 1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans) 1982 300D turbo (winter driver) 1986 560SEC 1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army) 1991 300TE (wife) 2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp) |
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Get on ebay and get yourself an old Chiltons from that era. Very good manuals and cheap. The valve adjustment is simple: Turn the cylinder you're working on to TDC, slide the appropriate feeler gauge between the cam and the rocker pad, and rotate the nut on the ball stud up or down to raise or lower the rocker arm so you can just drag the correct feeler gauge under the cam. It can help to use the 14mm crowfoot wrench that's designed for turning the adjustment nut, but sometimes you can get away with using a regular open end wrench......just watch out for the potential to slip and round off the corners!
__________________
1966 W111 250SEC:
DB268 Blaugrün/electric sunroof/4 on-the-floor/4.5 V-8 rear axle |
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Hello, Liondancer;
Welcome to the hand-built club-you will soon see how your hands are built if indeed you tackle your new project. Just a couple additions to comments above. The wood refinishing is tricky due to the nature of the wood being veneer. Aggresively try to remove finishes and the whole thing will disappear. I refinished my 71 280se using the above mentioned steel wool and I was satisfied to remove the bubbled-up finish. I found a Cabot's stain #27759 Australian Timber oil- Mahogony Flame which when applied in 3 separate coats looked very nice-I did this during the heat of the summer-really helped with the curing. Afterwards, finnished with 2 coats of wipe on poly by minwax. There is a sight on the net which will help you with this process-the name escapes right now and you can try the search feature here as well. Your decision to refinish should definitely include removal and for the dash and the bow you will need to be very patient with removal of components related to their removal. My refinish job was done when I replaced the blower motor and heater core-a fun job if ever there was one....... I have ordered parts for my car from our Mercedes Shop and dealt with sales help who are friendly and will work with you to make sure you get the right parts-Just ordered a complete exhaust system at a reasonable price and you get things like donut hangers and copper nuts, etc.. Best of luck and if your experience has been as good as mine on this forum site I believe you will enjoy your new project. |
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Welcome, Got any pics? I have a 67' 250S, and it is a cool car. Glad I bought it now. I'd love to see your car. Mine has Am Fm radio, Power windows and Air......Dual Zenith 35/40's which I am getting to know like a red headed step child , and a 2.5 liter inline 6. It's been fun so far tho. I do reccomend a Pertronix for your ignition...mine works great-- best 90 bucks I ever spent on a car.
Dave |
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Where can I find that heater core and blower motor and what are the prices for those approx?
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Hey Dave, my car has the same specs as yours pretty much. Dual zenith carbs which I hope to get to know, although hopefully not as intimately as you and yours. Its also a 2.5L inline 6. Original owner put in an after market am/fm/8track, not becker. I don't have AC or power windows. I've heard things about the pertronix, looking into that now. Anything special to know about that?
Peter |
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Guys, I also have an issue with the wipers not turning off. Suspect the combination switch faulty, looking into it now. Couldn't be fuse problem can it?
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Hello liondancer,
Check the washer switch on the floor. If it is stuck down the wipers will not return to stop position and switch off.
__________________
Joe Alexander Blacklick, Ohio 1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday) 1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army) 1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold) 1969 280SL Pagoda 1973 280SEL 4.5 1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans) 1982 300D turbo (winter driver) 1986 560SEC 1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army) 1991 300TE (wife) 2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp) |
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Hey Joe, I presume you mean the foot pump switch on the floor?
Peter |
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Hi.
I installed the pertronix ignition module and am very happy with it. When you order yours make sure you get the correct ohm rating for the coil you can buy along with your pertronix unit. Following the directions carefully is the other important step(s)..There are numerous posts here in this forum in order to make the choice which is best for you ( a crane unit is also available which avoids the self-destruct tendency of the Pertronix unit if you leave the ignition on for an inordinate amount of time....Check the posts here, read them, and then you will be better informed. As far as the heater core and the blower motor which moves the warm air and cool air around is concerned, you can find these parts in different places-just shop around; however, it is best to check fuses, determine the condition of the heater cables and the levers at the heater core itself prior to buying. If you can 'curb your enthusiasm' for just a few minutes find a good manual like Todd suggested and or the CD which is available and has good breakdowns for the various systems in your 'project'.... |
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The radiators in these cars are easily rebuildable, unlike the plastic stuff in newer cars. Mine ran hot too, then I took the radiator out and took it to a local old-school radiator shop in the back of a barn where they fixed it in a few days for $45. They also did bus radiators, which looked like giant versions of old benz radiators :-)
It is very easy to remove, only a few bolts, and you can do the thermostat at the same time. It's nice to start with the baseline of a known good radiator.
__________________
___ /<>/>/> 1967 230S automatic Boston, MA |
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Hello liondancer,
Yes the foot pump switch on the floor.
__________________
Joe Alexander Blacklick, Ohio 1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday) 1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army) 1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold) 1969 280SL Pagoda 1973 280SEL 4.5 1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans) 1982 300D turbo (winter driver) 1986 560SEC 1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army) 1991 300TE (wife) 2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp) |
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