cable operated height control valve on air suspension
 

On my 1971 300SEL 6.3, the cable for the valve that controls the 3 positions just fell out of the securing bolt, on the valve.
I guessed that the hole,on the valve should be aligned with the notch in the valve, but the whole car sits too high, with the valve pressed all the way in.
What am I doing wrong? Thanks again!

These are the guys to ask, they will even post pics.

http://www.m-100.cc/forum/default.asp

Lots of air suspension and M100 info too.

Just a quick check,push the height knob fully home,then pull it out one click,then loosen the cable on the disc. Move the disc so it is lined up on the hole and notch. tighten the cable ,then pull it right out . go for a slow drive of a couple of miles and push the height knob back home again. Is it still high? If so ,the main valve is sticking . You may need to do this a couple of times to unstick it. . Normally the disc notch is only half over the hole in the valve body or covering it as in this example. nearly every 6.3 I have ever seen is like this.http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...htvalve001.jpg

Thanks!!!
 

I am now sure that I am not correctly set.Will reset ,according to your instruction, in the morning.Would you have a picture of the "antifreeze bottle", for the air suspension?Is there a dipstick, or more clearly, is the rubber pull plug the opening to add the alcohol/methanol?What quantity of fluid should I add?
I have applied to the 100 board, but as of yet, am still not accepted, so unable to post.You all here, have been MOST helpful.
Sincere thanks again.
My car looks very odd, way high ,in the rear, and rides like a Lowrider.
Bounce Bounce Bounce.
I wonder what people think when that old green boat zips past them?
The front is near normal, but the rear is WAY high.

The bottle has a small plastic plug on top which you unscrew so you can fill the bottle. .Just add 250 mls of methylated spirits. It acts a drier so moisture isn't added to the air system.
The rear sounds like it's stuck ,first,just look underneath nand see if the link rod is still connected to the valve from the torsion bar. The ball ends are the same part as fitted to self levelling on W114,116,123,and 126 cars so it's npot a problem to buy new ones if the ends have failed. The rear vlave is supposed to changed every 60,000 miles,so if yours is the original valve it may be time for a change.
Now,if the main cable position is not correct,the rear can also stay up because the rear gets full air pressure and the main valve can hold the air . Readjusting the cable should allow the rear to settle to the proper height. if the car is still bouncy after the height settles ,your shock absorbers will need replacing. they last longer on air suspension cars than steel spring cars so again,it's not unusual to find 40 year old shocks still working. Genuine Bilsteins are the only ones to consider.
You can see the rear valve here in the center of the picture with the three steel pipes .http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...exhaust009.jpg

All settled..
 

Mercmad- you are todays hero!!I followed your perfect instruction, and the car went down to correct stance before I could drive away.
It worked like a charm!!
I am a little worried about your car , though.Your muffler is not on the proper side!
But I guess if you don't drive on the proper side of the road,it is okay if your muffler is on the wrong side.
Seriously , thank you SO MUCH, for the help.
Does the bottle have any pressure, or can I just open it at any time, and add fluid?No precautions, or as we say -"no worries"?