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  #31  
Old 01-15-2009, 09:54 PM
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Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 112
There is a pile of documents in the car, it looks like they where maintained I will go there tomorrow to look them over. Thanks for all the information. I live really close to where I bought it from. when you pass though town again I would love it if you have time to come over and take a peek and a drive in it to tell me what you think. I really want to belive that the car only has 67,000 on it. But like I said I will check on that. When I get it home the first thing I will do is grease up the 15 points, and buy some of that PR rust stuff and cover the rust areas, and a tune up. I know the heater does work I have taken it on 2 test drives with my grandfather-inlaw. When you mention the Blue knob on the dashborr. Can you explain what the other ones do too. I assume you are talking about the knobs that kind of look like ciggerate lighters with colors on the end.

Ps. What would I need to do to get the uni-body channel repair and sealed? Materials, Cost, Labor?


Last edited by Nik_the_barber; 01-15-2009 at 10:03 PM.
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  #32  
Old 01-15-2009, 10:55 PM
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
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Hello Nick,

Wish I had seen your post earlier. I was down there again yesterday. I will give you a call next trip (soon).

Actually the heater controls are the levers (may be broken off) just above the radio on the dash. There are four heater controls. The upper left is heater fan speed control and air flow.Sliding this lever all the way to the left should activate the heaterfan in the dash. Right upper lever is windshield or footwell air distribution lever. Left lower is left side heat control. Right lower is right side heat control.

The two knobs at the bottom of the dash are the AC temp control and the AC fan control. The AC fan motor is built into the passenger side footwell kick panel.

Rust repair can be expensive if you are paying a welder or bodyman $40 to $80 hour. Restoring the car to original is not an option unless you are looking for a new hobby and intend on doing most of the work. Too many good buys, solid cars are out there. If the mechanicals are good, you may wish to treat the rust and cover and protect the rest for the time.
Prices and quality of repairs will vary widely. New sheetmetal chassis parts are available. Without a good inspection cost estimate is impossible.

Keep in touch!
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday)
1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army)
1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold)
1969 280SL Pagoda
1973 280SEL 4.5
1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans)
1982 300D turbo (winter driver)
1986 560SEC
1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army)
1991 300TE (wife)
2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp)
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  #33  
Old 01-15-2009, 11:36 PM
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Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 112
Oh yes all those levers are there and not broken off. Like i said I should have the car back at my place in about 8 or so days. So if you want to give me a call and we can exchange numbers and a day and time if you want to come out. My grandfather knows some good welders and my Dad is one. But he works on buildings not cars. My grandpa said we could buy some sheet metal and cut it to size and then have a welder weld them in place. My number is 513-889-8771. It will be nice to have someone that knows about this car able to help me out. So after you take a look if you are interested in helping learn and fixing it up I could compensate you some what. But really i'm looking to get into fixing this car up and any help would be awesome. Thanks for the info.
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  #34  
Old 01-16-2009, 06:30 AM
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
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Hello Nik,

Think about coming up to the Columbus area this summer. This event will have over one dozens of experts on these mechanicals from all over the US and World.

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=10079.0


My advice is free, I'll be happy to help a new enthusiast. It sounds like you are looking for a hobby. That's the right attitiude. You also have support from your family, this is also good. Could be a beginning of a good relationship with a little help from your friends in the MB community!

I'll try to call or email this week-end.
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday)
1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army)
1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold)
1969 280SL Pagoda
1973 280SEL 4.5
1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans)
1982 300D turbo (winter driver)
1986 560SEC
1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army)
1991 300TE (wife)
2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp)
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  #35  
Old 01-17-2009, 08:21 PM
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Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 112
Hmmm, Anyone got any thoughts on how she looks?
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  #36  
Old 01-17-2009, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 158
Hello Nik;
Your car looks as good as you see it-which is one reason to read the posts in this great forum. I started on my rear brake calipers this week. The left side was dragging ( I could tell by the steam coming from the wheel well when I washed the car) after a short run-the power to move the car increased exponentially as well-hence the caliper rebuild. But it was time to bleed the brake system anyway.
I hope your excitement over a new car in your extended family will rub-off on others as well. Who knows, maybe someday you will host your own 108 party-good luck and happy motoring!
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  #37  
Old 01-17-2009, 10:41 PM
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Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,354
As far as a service manual is concerned, call 1-800-for-merc and buy the CD. For your car, it is the best thing by far. -CTH
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  #38  
Old 01-26-2009, 01:55 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 112
I'm finally going to be bringing this car home in the next 3 days. I was wondering if this car only starts in neutral. If I recall when I test drove it it would start with no problems in neutral. But would not start in drive. But I can no be for sure of that. I think you can start it in drive with a few pumps to the gas pedal but im not sure. If the car required you pump the pedal before starting what do I need to do to fix that, and what gear (drive or Neautral) does the car suppouse to start in. Thanks
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  #39  
Old 01-26-2009, 12:29 PM
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MBZ, as all other cars w auto-trans, start in Neutral or Park. This is accomplished by a neutral-safety switch, which is located on the linkage-side of the transmission. If it ever gets out of adjustment, you'll know by reverse selection and starting problems.

Pumping is normal for a carbureted engine (acclerator pump in carb). W/FI, the only thing you may have to do is hold the the pedal down an inch or so while starting. If your FI is tuned correctly, just turn the key and watch it start.
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  #40  
Old 01-26-2009, 01:55 PM
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Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 112
Thanks a lot, I know that sounded like a dumb question. I was skimming the forums last night and had came across a DYI on how to clean the switch. Is that something I should consider. I'll have to double check but if the car does not start in park. would that have something to do with the switch?
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  #41  
Old 01-26-2009, 05:10 PM
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Location: Hamilton, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 280EZRider View Post
MBZ,

Pumping is normal for a carbureted engine (acclerator pump in carb). W/FI, the only thing you may have to do is hold the the pedal down an inch or so while starting. If your FI is tuned correctly, just turn the key and watch it start.

So you are saying that I would not have to pump the gas if my FI is tuned correctly? On another note what is a W/Fi?
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  #42  
Old 01-26-2009, 07:09 PM
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
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Hello Nik,

Normally these cars will start instantly by turning the key. Pumping the peddle will not help. Slightly depressing the accelerator is ok.

Try not to just start the car and let it idle. You are better driving off after a short warm up period.

Not starting in park can also be the result of worn or mal-adjusted shifter linkage ends. Check to see if the transmission locks the rear wheels when in "P".

Hard or delayed starting is usually caused by mal-functioning engine "starting aids". Read the engine "starting aid tour" on the W113 site.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=5486.0
Better yet come to the Tech Session in July, you are only a 90 minute drive from Blacklick!

Take care,
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday)
1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army)
1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold)
1969 280SL Pagoda
1973 280SEL 4.5
1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans)
1982 300D turbo (winter driver)
1986 560SEC
1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army)
1991 300TE (wife)
2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp)

Last edited by ja17; 01-26-2009 at 07:18 PM.
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  #43  
Old 01-26-2009, 07:30 PM
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W/FI meant "with fuel injection." And "yes" to your other question to which ja17 reiterated. He and I part company about idling - at least in the winter. I don't drive my car whilst Ohio salt is lurking about, so it gets cold soaked after setting for days at a time during this cold winter. Rubber & plastic parts can crack at such low temperatures, so I like to let my car slowly warm up for a few minutes first to avoid possible temperature shock. During the rest of the year, I agree with ja17.
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  #44  
Old 01-26-2009, 07:52 PM
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
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Hello, I respect your opinions and I have mine also.

Even the factory workshop manuals suggest not just starting the cars and letting them idle for extended periods of time. I have maintained many vintage MBs over the years. The best survivors are those stored in climate controlled heated garages, or those which are started and driven. I am not saying you should drive your car in bad weather. If you start it drive it. If the weather is not good, then you do not have to start it!

Cold idling tends to foul spark plugs on these engines. In addition it does not burn off contaminates in the oil which never reaches enough temperature. During cold starts the first breath of the engine is cold damp air. Moisture ends up in the oil, combustion chambers and exhaust system. Transmissions, differentials, steering gears, shocks etc do not benefited from cold idle starts. Brakes are not warmed and moisture laiden brake fluid is left to corrode brake parts.

A good drive lubes and exercises all these parts, coat their seals with fluid, dries out the exhaust, heats the oil, and purges the engine oil and brake fluid of some moisture.

All my cars stay shut down or go for a little drive when the weather permits.

Garages Kill!
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday)
1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army)
1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold)
1969 280SL Pagoda
1973 280SEL 4.5
1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans)
1982 300D turbo (winter driver)
1986 560SEC
1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army)
1991 300TE (wife)
2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp)

Last edited by ja17; 01-26-2009 at 08:00 PM.
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  #45  
Old 01-26-2009, 08:13 PM
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ja, I agree with everything you say. My post says "for few minutes" in the winter. And this is prior to driving - not just letting it run. And as you said, it needs to be run to clean out all the crud. For this very reason, I always take a highway whenever possible - even if the route is out of the way.

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