|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
To boost or not to boost
Recently, I rebuilt the rear calipers of my 71 280se. I attempted to bleed the calipers without using the booster (engine running) but did not have much luck. All kinds of scenarios began to pop up: master cylinder bad, blocked line, etc.. I decided to crank and when I did I was able to bleed the brakes with no problems at all...
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
You will also want to change the flexible brake lines if they are more than 10-15 years old. They swell and close up over the years and won't allow the brake cylinders to release they way they should. I incurred the unnecessary expense of installing rebuilt calipers before discovering that they weren't the problem--it was the hoses.
__________________
Berfinroy in CT Present vehicles: 1973 300 SEL 4.5 1959 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud I 1959 Ford Thunderbird convertible/430 Past vehicles; 1958 Bentley S 1 1976 ex-Max Hoffman 6.9 1970 300SEL 2.8 1958 Jaguar MK IX 1961 Jaguar MK IX 1963 Jaguar E-type factory special roadster 1948 Plymouth woody 1955 Morgan plus 4 1966 Shelby GT350H Mustang |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
The hoses are a good place to start.
I have seen some vehicles which have a metal clamp to secure part of the hose.This can rust internally and effectively pinch the hose. A few particles of crap can clog up the proportioning valve,if so equipped.
__________________
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks..
I am in the process of re-doing the system-new hoses and the like but to be honest I had not thought of the restriction part of it. My main concern was having to deal with no braking as a consequence of a hose bursting and leaking fluid. I am having to use plenty of 'parts blaster and WD-40' in order to loosen the hose fittings. Also, a PO had some brake work done on the front calipers and the bolts holding the calipers to the suspension must have had 200lbs. of torque on them. According to the manual I have all one needs is 82 ft.lbs. |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|