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#1
02-21-2009, 05:02 PM
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Fintail trunk access
I have run across a fintail (not sure of the year) sitting in a very out of the way junk yard that has been there since about 1975.
The engine is a real rats nest; I mean it has real rats living on it and they have built a nest in the carbs. The rest of it seems all there including the taillights. Now then, when it comes to getting into the trunk of a 123 or a 201 I can, given enough time, open the trunk lid from under the trunk floor. I am at a real loss as to how to get the trunk open on this car, though. The keys are long gone. The owner wants to sell the taillights but will not allow any damage to the trunk. If I knew the number of the key I could make one with a file and a pair of pliers. All it takes is about five key blanks and a lot of time. So my questions are: Is there a way to open the trunk through a trunk floor access panel? Can anyone give me the name of a key company and the number of the blank? Did all fin-tails use the same key blank or is there a change from year to year? The only two things I can bring to this project is a lot of general knowledge in this area and a lot of time. The owner is curious as to what might be in the trunk. All he can remember is that he bought it at a police auction sale and never could figure out how to open the trunk, so he is very open to my giving it a crack. Any suggestions? 
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#2
02-21-2009, 05:21 PM
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If that has a push button , the key just turns a lever inside to push the mechanism to unlatch.
So, if you drill a hole next to the cylinder , you can push the mechanism with a welding rod. The glove box key should be the same as the trunk. So, if you have that tunmbler, you can make a key by simply doing the cuts until all the slides are flush with the cylinder with the key in.
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 02-21-2009 at 05:29 PM.
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#3
02-21-2009, 05:33 PM
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I am not sure if the owner will let me drill a hole, but if he will just where would I drill it? 12 o'clock? 3o'clock?
He is also adament about there being no damage to the trunk lid, but he may not be so picky about the lock itself. Could this hold be drilled in the area of the lock without touching the trunk lid? Perhaps a better way of saying tht would be would the hole be covered up when another lock was installed to replace the drilled out one?
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#4
02-21-2009, 05:41 PM
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I have to see it...if the cylinder is the push type [ is it??] inside a trim piece, then the hole can be drilled into the rubber under the trim and then covered up with a dab of black chaulk.
Are there chrome strips on each side of the cylinder? http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/other/keys2.htm Thr glove box will have the cylinder # on it...you get me that and I will give you the blank #. That key will fit the trunk [ if original]
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 02-21-2009 at 05:51 PM.
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#5
02-21-2009, 06:16 PM
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Check this one on ebay:
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Question Authority before it Questions you.
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#6
02-21-2009, 06:19 PM
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Arthur,
Good information. It may take me a week or so to come up with the info so I will get back to you. I would rather make a key than anything else. If the glove compartment key would fit the trunk that would be the easiest to make. By the way: If you know how, a key for a GM product can be made in about three minutes. European cars, though, can take a few hours but it is still better than trying to cut your way in. I will try and get a photo of the car and the trunk lock while I am at it.
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#7
02-21-2009, 06:21 PM
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I buy blanks from him and they are good Taylors, but you still need the Series number of the cylinder to know which blank..that will be on the glove box cylinder. The series # determines the profile of the key from the front...
wrong profile and the key will not slide in.
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 02-21-2009 at 06:43 PM.
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#8
02-21-2009, 06:24 PM
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> I can make a Benz key in 5 min if I have the correct blank and the cylinder. There are 5 slides and that's it..but you need the correct blank cuz one cut is on the opposite side. And that leaves only four to cut cuz the last one is the same on the blanks. It is common practice on these old locks that have a worn out slide [ they are brass] to just take that one out..that still leaves you 4 , and nobody is going to open it anyway...it is the first two that always wear b/c as you slide the key in, the first two get the most wear b/c all the the entire length of the key and teeth have to cross them til the key is all they way in..so they take the beating. I just did a 250sl a couple of weeks ago [ 3 key chassis] with the ebay guys blanks and they were perfect..doors/gas cap and glove box/trunk...all I neeeded for the blanks was the series # off one door and the one off the cap. [ Yamos] But that car was all orig, so that made it easy........... That one took the Taylor M68H and M68G. He combined s/h too, and was very knowledgeable... I see some of these blanks go for crazy $$$$ , but this guy is in line, if not in-expensive.......
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 02-21-2009 at 06:48 PM.
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#10
02-21-2009, 07:01 PM
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Cool...you can see where those old chassis used the seperate trunk and glove box w/same key..that was to keep those thieving mechanics out of the personables when getting the car serviced........
 The other key was doors and gas cap [ if so equipped]..Ign key was seperate. [ 3 key system] But then everyone wanted a Key for All, so they succumed and did it on the later models [ late 60s, early '70s.]
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A Dalton
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#11
02-21-2009, 07:19 PM
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Looks like all Fintails used "Huf" KST series for trunk and glovebox....
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#12
02-21-2009, 07:46 PM
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If you do find it to be Huf/KST..and the following number after KST is between 1 -240, here is the blank.
If you know of any old Lock Shops , ask if they have a Taylor M73L blank.. .......never know ....... ..or,,if you get the code off the lock, these guys will cut one for another $7..not bad. Just hope the Glove is same as trunk. Never know what has been done with an old car... http://key-men.com/shopping/show_key.php?catnum=HF15 Don't do anything til you see what you have for numbers/make .......
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 02-21-2009 at 08:19 PM.
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#13
02-21-2009, 10:40 PM
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Time ago I had the same problem on a 108. I guess they have the same system as the Fintails. I first looked at another car, dismantled the system to see where to drill. I took measures and came back to drill a hole in my car. I had to dismantle the fuel door and the back bumper as I had to drill vertically upwards from inside the fuel housing. The good thing was that the damage could not be seen in normal operating conditions. I left the hole in case the problem happened again.
Good luck (I hope you don't find a skeleton in that trunk, given that the car was seemingly seized by the police, who knows what business the bad guys were in!).
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#14
02-22-2009, 07:50 AM
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Update:
Found 2 brand new HUF glovebox cyl.with keys: ST 156 cyl. with KST 156keys and ST 190 cyl. with KST 190 keys ...and two used HUF trunk cyl. ,both having the same MB #110 750 01 84,but of different series-one is ST,and the other SM. The SM cyl. will not accept a KST key. Looking at the ponton site privided by Arthur Dalton,the SM series is earlier,as it`s used on pontons too.The difference between the 2 key series is seen clearly when I compare my keys(KST) with the ones on the pics:this is not a KST key(rather a KSM):  So you`ll need to order one of each series to be safe. Below is a pic of KST 156 key. Last edited by vox_incognita; 02-22-2009 at 08:42 AM.
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