1970 280SE Starting Questions

[bugpartslou]

1. Seems to flood when starting, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser installed by me (master VW Tech) have to floor it to clear it out and it never really does run right. Wiring was tweaked by a high school shop class before I got it, so advice on a service book or wiring diagram would be nice. Any thoughts on the flooding issue?

2. What does the correct hose for the air cleaner to air intake look like? Mine is a plastic accordion and doesn't look like it belongs! This is a CA car in IL so I'd really like to get it back on the road.

Thanks for your help.

[Arthur Dalton]

There is a cold start valve over on the center of the intake. It has a 6 or 7mm hex plug test port on the side. With the key on, engine off, remove that plug and see if there is petro coming out the port. [ I use a rag for safety] ....if yes, then the CSV is leaking and flooding the intake.
There should only be fuel flow there at starter circuit crank with a cold engine. Common for them to be full of dirt and they can b cleaned...also take the single wire off to make sure it is not an electrical problem [ like a stuck relay , etc]

there are other possibles , but that is always the first check on that MFI system.........

[bugpartslou]

Ok, I removed the plug and turned the key on, no fuel squirts out. Pulled a few spark plugs after cranking for a minute or so and they are soaked with fuel. Engine spits a little but won't start. I put a test light on the negative of the coil and can see that the points are breaking, however, I hooked a voltmeter to the + side of the coil and I get only 2.4 volts, doesn't seem like that would be enough to fire the plugs?? Voltage before the resistor is 12 volts. So you are aware, there was no power to the resistor when I got the car. I found some butchered wiring at the bottom of the radiator support on the driver's side, a block with 3 phillips screw terminals, 2 black one brown, near the ignition box. I found that one of the blacks had power with the key, so I jumped that to the resistor. As I mentioned, a high school shop class had this car and they were trying to get it running and performed some "surgery" on the wiring. Perhaps I have a wiring nightmare on my hands?

[ctaylor738]

I believe that you are going through two resistors (.4 and .6 ohms) and ending up 2.4 volts. The spec at the coil WITH the transistor box working is 3.0-3.6 volts. So 2.4 without it is not going to work. You can do a couple of things.

- Test to see if the car will start if you put 12 volts to the coil (briefly).

- Get a Pertronix unit to replace the points and a Bosch blue coil, running 12 volts to the coil

- Hook the transistor box up correctly, correct the voltage, and see if it works

- Same as above, but with a known good transistor box

[Arthur Dalton]

there were 3 version/generations Trans Ign.
If this is not the correct version, let me know

[bugpartslou]

Looked at Arthur's diagram and did voltage tests today. Batt, 12 volts (fresh charge) to 15 on coil 11.5, input side of 1st resistor 10.2, output side 10.2, input side of second resitor: DEAD. ran jump from output of 1st to input of second, got 6.0 at the 1 post on the coil. Pulled an old trick to clear the flooding, took the plug connectors and laid them gently on the connectors, then spun it over and it started!!! Put the connectors on tight, still runs. I'll leave it sit awhile and see what happens. So what piece is bad, the transistor box?

[bugpartslou]

Also, why do my cooling fans go on when I close the hood? There's a switch like a dome light switch that the hood hits, or I press it by hand with the hood up and it kicks the fans on when the key is on or the car is running. doesn't seem right....or is it?

[bugpartslou]

Just want to know if I'm chasing the right demons. Also need to know about the fan switch, air intake hose, and manual (book) availability. Thanks.