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#1
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what suitable motor oil on our '60s mercedes?
hi folks?
What is best modern oils to use in our older benzes? I used the cheaper mobil oils (Mobil Special 10W-50) for my break-in. Can I use Synthetics like Mobil 1 or Wurth Synthetic? roldan |
#2
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I think my favorite machinist would say if the motor has been rebuilt you can use synthetics in it. I would try to replicate the viscosity the oiling system was designed for.
But for a vehicle that is going to be driven only occasionally why bother? It probably is better to use the cheaper oil and change it more often.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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I use Rotella or Delo 400 (depending on which one's cheaper that day) 15w40 in my gasser. My thinking is that oil formulations have changed and diesel oils are a better fit for anything with solid cam followers, which old Mercedes engines have.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#4
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Modern oils should be superior in every respect for the old engines. Much of the development behind the newer specs (SF/SG/SH...) has been towards reducing camshaft wear as cam loading has gotten much higher over the years. I'd stay close to recommended viscosity ranges as this has more to do with designed bearing clearances than any material changes, and if the original elastomers are in the engine I'd probably stay with mineral oil rather than synthetic. In general, a wide viscosity range (10W-50) is inferior to a narrow range (20W-40) in terms of actual lubrication, but don't go so heavy on the "W" part that it takes a long time to build oil pressure on a cold morning.
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1987 W201 190D |
#5
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Well,Owner`s manuals suggest SAE 10w,20w-20,10w-30,30..."For moderate climate we recommend SAE 20w-20 from April and SAE 10W from October..."..SAE 30 for hot zones...and the minimum permissible oil pressure at idle (0,5-0,6 bar)is given when using SAE10W oil...
All of these oils have to be HD (diesel)engine oils-among the approved oils are some Delo,Delvac and Rotella formulations of the era (Super RPM Delo Special,Delvac 1100,Rotella S,Texaco Ursa). 6000 miles OCI. That was for w108... My diesel w110 gets 15w-40 HDEO`s and is allright.I don`t think I want to try any of the abovementioned viscosities however... |
#6
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I've read articles in a few places (link to one below) about the reduction of a zinc-based chemical called ZDDP for emissions reasons. This has caused increased wear on camshafts in older cars. Diesel-rated oils are less affected by this change.
Linky: http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#7
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Ah, the age old debate of motor oils...
If it's been recently rebuilt it has all new seals. Put synthetic in and use 10w30 and enjoy a long-lived sludge-free engine I say. Others will say it's not worth the cost but you just paid for a rebuild so I say it should be!
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#8
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Quote:
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
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I too say go with synthetic. These old engines often went only a half million miles, or at most a million miles, before needing a rebuild. That's not good enough! For a mere $3 extra per quart you too could become a synthetic oil zealot - capable of huge leaps of faith and irrationally unsubstantiated arguments. Of course if this ZDDP thing turns out to be true, as the evidence suggests, you're completely screwed. But you'll be a member of a fraternity - the synthetic oil brotherhood.
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#10
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I bet most of you answered to synthetics, ok, I will use Synthetics but, Can I use Synthetic Diesel Oils like Mobil Delvac, etc..? also what viscosity to use for hot climate like here in the Philippines? summer is already here! hot sunny day today here!
roldan |
#11
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I actually use Rotella synthetic 5W40 in my diesels, mainly for easier starting and rapid onset of oil pressure in cold weather. I keep dino oil in the gasser since it starts easily and builds oil pressure quickly regardless of weather. If you want to spend the extra money for synthetic, the Rotella 5w40 should work fine for you, but I don't think it's needed in your climate.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#12
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Quote:
Skippy, what do you mean dino oil? oh I forgot that my car is a '66 200 w/ 2.0 M115 engine. |
#13
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Dino oil-as in made from dead dinosaurs. In other words, the stuff that isn't synthetic.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#14
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If you are in a hot climate use 20W-50 oil. Thinner oils may get too thin resulting in a loss of oil pressure, especially at idle, as these engines have bigger clearaces and plays compared to modern engines. This may lead to a default of lubrication of the upper part of the engine. You may end up wearing the camshaft.
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#15
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No Castrol...
I wrote Castrol, and asked what oil of theirs was suitable for my 6.3, and they specifically wrote back, and flatly stated that ..."we have no oil suitable for use in a Mercedes".
Apparently NONE of their oils meet Mercedes specs. I was just amazed, and consider this cause for serious consideration/deliberation, on what TO use. |
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