accelerator pedal

[cardsnapper]

Hello all! This is my first time here. I have recently bought my first benz, a 1975 450SE 4.5. It has 98,000 miles. I have tons of questions!! I bought (stole is more appropriate) this car from a guy I work with. Let's just say I got it for about the price of a new grill assembly! Please bare with me if some of my questions sound dumb, as I am a lady and pretty much mechanically ignorant, but , I am fascinated with these cars! Oh yes! On the weekends and after work, it's off with the heels and time to get dirty! Car dirt that is! Okay, enough rambling, on to the questions! This car sat for two years. It was started and ran regularly, but not driven. The only mechanical thing we have so far ran in to is the power steering pump needs replaced. The problem is the floor board. Especially the driver's side. It's pretty much gone. Having a friend in the welding business, he fabricated one. Now I'm replacing all of the carpet. When I got the car, the gas pedal was in the car, but not attached. From the floormats. it appears the the gas pedal was some how attached to the floor, is this true? If so, does any one know of a manual or can anyone tell me how it is supposed to be installed? I don't have any manuals (except chilton), this car is a euro model. It still has the shipping tag on the inside of the door. Can anyone tell me what all of the buttons on the console are for? Everything is in german or no words at all. I have already figured out the sunroof, but what about the three buttons to the left of it? I'll leave it at that for now, as this post is rapidly becoming a book! Thanks for any info!

[MikeTangas]

I can address the steering pump.

First, are you sure the pump is shot? Leaking, frozen or what? Might be it just needs some fluid. If the pump is in fact shot, you can expect to pay about $650.00+ for a rebuilt at the dealer. It should have one of the Vickers pumps I think. If so, don't hesitate to find one at a dismantler. The Vickers pumps are tough units. I got mine at the dismantler for $50.00, nice savings there, all I had to do was change out the bracket and attach my reservior.

Your reservior may be mounted to the pump or may be mounted on the fender, either location it should still have the same pump.

There should also be a power steering filter located in the bottom of the reservior, underneath the steady plate (the part at the bottom of the reservior with all the holes).

Hope this helps.

[cardsnapper]

Mike,
Thanks for your fast reply! I'll explain this as best I can....It has a Vickers pump. With the car running, PS fluid was leaking out of the top of the reservoir (around the lid). We replaced the gasket, but it still leaked. The fluid was down far enough that we pulled out metal thing with holes and the filter. It was the cork looking one. We filled the reservoir up and started the car so we could see what was going on....the hose at the top (return?) was like blowing air into the reservoir and the lower hose didn't appear to be doing anything. The power Steering fluid was kind of spirting out of the top of the reservoir so we immediately shut it off.And of course it moans terribly when you turn the wheels. Does that mean the pump is bad?
Thanks!

[MikeTangas]

Doesn't necessarily mean the pump is bad, it means you have air in the system. There could be several reason why.

1. Front seal of the pump is shot and leaking fluid. Causes the level to drop and turning the wheel temporarily drain what's left in the reservoir.

2. Return line after 25+ years has begun to break down and is acting like a sponge, only allowing the fluid to escape through the hose. Replacing this hose is a necessary repair at this age. Easy to do and fairly inexpensive, use the search function and look for a post titled "handy little tip" and my name for a how-to.

3. The steering box is leaking and needs to be resealed. I had mine resealed at my local independent shop. Cost about $300.00. Easy to determine, look at the bottom of the steering box and see if steering fluid is dripping off of it, either from the end of the pitman arm (the arm attached to the steering box) or from the weep hole next to this arm.

4. Could be that the fluid just got low which caused air to get in the system.


These items aren't necessarily in order, just writing them as they come to mind. First I would simply replace the return line if it is oil soaked. Easy to test, just grab the hose and see if your hand is oily .

Next you need to top up the system using steering fluid. Some say it's OK to use ATF, but there is discussion that modern ATF has additives that are detrimental to the pump seals. Once the reservoir is topped up you need to bleed the system. There are several methods, but the easiest (and messiest if done wrong) is to leave the top off and with the engine running SLOWLY turn the wheel stop to stop. One direction will somewhat drain the reservoir, the return turn will purge some air. Keep the reservoir topped up and continue turning stop to stop slowly until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles.

Once the system is topped and bled, now you need to locate any and all steering fluid leaks. The Vickers pumps can be rebuilt by a moderate DIYer (I believe) or at an Independent shop. It is possible the front seal of the pump is shot, if it is you will see the fluid seeping out behind the pulley. That is generally caused by over tightened belts.

In a short matter of time you can have the steering system dry as a bone externally and operating smooth as silk.

[johan01]

W116 I assume. I think I can help out with the accelerator pedal...

The pedal is indeed mounted on the floor. There's a metal 'tongue' that sticks out from the floor where the rubber/plastic accelerator pedal is slipped into and locked into place.

Careful with this though.... if the 'tongue' is not welded to the right spot on the floor, the accelerator pedal can get stuck --- don't ask how I know about this....

regards,