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  #1  
Old 10-22-2001, 02:16 AM
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replacing old wires, hoses, etc...

I fear a lot of my '71 250's wires, hoses, vacuum lines, probably also some things I don't know about yet. I've asked a skilled backyard mechanic to look at the belts as well as the above; brittle, duct taped together "things" will get replaced. Any suggestions on things to inspect for signs of age related failure I haven't mentioned above?
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  #2  
Old 10-22-2001, 04:17 AM
/8 200
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Hi Debi,

I don't know how long you own this car but id it is only since recently I would recommend inspection of the brakepads,brakehoses ( running to the calliper) and renewing the brakefluid.
Brakefluid has to be replaced almost once a year and is easely forgotten.It takes up water easely and then corrosion of the brakelines/pistonseals and brakecyllinder starts.
Replacing hoses,fluid and pads is fairly cheap.Compared to a totall brakejob when things get stuck or worse.

Good luck
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Old 10-22-2001, 12:04 PM
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My owner manual calls for ATF in the brake resivour. Someone has used brake fluid. Would you sugges I go back to the ATF?
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Old 10-22-2001, 01:08 PM
/8 200
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I use DOT 4 brake fluid.
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Old 10-22-2001, 02:18 PM
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ATF meaning automatic transmission fluid? I've never heard of that. I thought the Dot 3 was the type needed? Anyone?
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  #6  
Old 10-22-2001, 04:32 PM
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I was surprised to see it in the manual. An old mechanic told me of Rolls Royces that used mineral oil in the 70"s.
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  #7  
Old 10-23-2001, 02:04 AM
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Are you sure it's not ATE brake fluid?
ATE = German brake manufacturer
ATF = automatic transmission fluid
Hapy Motoring, Mark
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  #8  
Old 10-23-2001, 10:42 AM
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It is supposed to be ATE...

...and I recall when Rolls Royce used mineral oil instead of brake fluid.

I remember reading a Road and Track article back in the 70's about a new Rolls Royce model, and it was of particular notice that they decided to use mineral oil instead of brake fluid. When they questioned the anomaly, the Rolls Royce spokesperson said they did that simply because it was "cheaper".

Gee...I guess that would be of great concern for the typical Rolls Royce owner!!!

But I digress...as far as vacuum hoses go, it's hard to tell visually sometimes, and I find it best to just replace them all based on the age of the car. A lot easier than just selectively replacing ones that appear to be suspect.
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Old 10-24-2001, 09:08 PM
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Okay next question: Is it a DIY project to change brake fluid? If so, how? And I've been putting CHEAP transmission fluid in my power steering resovoir and now it's making squeels and squeaks. I heard ATF will eat the seals and ruin the power steering pump so, Can I get this stuff out myself and replace it with Power Steering Fluid? How much of this fluid does my '71 250/8 hold?
Anyone care to share information? Please....
Oh yeah, Brakes: Dot 3 or 4?
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Old 10-25-2001, 12:55 PM
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I would add a word of caution if you are going to poke around replacing wires and vacuum hoses. If this car has spent a lot of time in cold weather, the plastic and insulation are very brittle and can break in very inconvenient locations. If it ain't broke, leave it alone.

Chuck
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  #11  
Old 10-25-2001, 08:23 PM
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good advice

I understand what you are saying about leaving well enough alone, but, 30 years has produced brittle tubing, corroded wiring... old age has arrived for the '71 250.
When I first got the car and was showing it to my father we somehow broke a vacuum line and next time I drove, I had no brakes. Duct tape solved that leak... and several others. I gotta try and repair that which I can... the easy stuff... and try to hold off the difficult and expensive jobs as long as possible.
Thanks for your input. I've read about some of your woes and wins with your MB.
Good luck, debi
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2001, 02:27 PM
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If you have to replace the vacuum lines, you might try a used parts place and see if they will sell you some sections of the plastic stuff from a W123 body - newer and less brittle. I think that the plastic is the same size, and you can use rubber vacuum hose to join the old to the new.

Definitely better than duct tape.
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  #13  
Old 10-27-2001, 03:44 AM
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Thanks Chuck,
I knew someone could tell me a simple and probably fairly inexpensive way to replace vacuum lines.
Used parts? Like a junk yard containing a wrecked W123 I might get the hoses from?
I was wondering if the specs on the tubing required existed somewhere... know if this is possible. Or, maybe someone packages the correct hoses and connections and sells a package specially for each model? Who would know? The MB dealer, import parts stores, MB, someone who's been through all this before?
You say W123's vacuum lines should fit my '71 250/8 with it's 130 motor and 114 chassis?
All information is appreciated and believe it or not from my posts I am learning a lot. Thanks, debi
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2001, 09:10 AM
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Two comments on different items in this thread as I have been away for awhile:

(1) Use Mercon III automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in the power steering, not, repeat not brake fluid. Brake fluid has deleterious effects on rubber seals. If someone put brake fluid into the PS system, immediately flush it and put in fresh ATF. Change the filter in the PS reservour at the same time.

(2) Flush the brake systen and install new brake fluid regularly. I do mine annually. Use any DOT 4 brand. The M-B brand is not essential. Castrol, Prestone, and Wagner make fine DOT 4 fluid. With the Ezebleed device, anyone can do this alone and easily on a Mercedes. I have done this for years on my 240D and ponton.
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2001, 10:07 PM
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On the vacuum lines:

I was thinking that you could get several long straight sections from a 123 - like where they run along the channels in the passenger cabin - that would provide enough material to fix yours. You could probably also get some "Y" fittings as well. You can "patch" in new sections with rubber hose of the right size from any parts place.

I have not seen any pre-configured vacuum "harnesses" for the 114 but you can still get some of the pieces from a good dealer.

Good luck.
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