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#1
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68 250SE 108 Chassis 6 Cyl., 4 speed, Wheel Alignment
I am having great difficulty locating someone I can trust to properly do a wheel alignment on this car. Old MB's aren't real popular it seems, at least at the alignment shops I've been to in So. Jersey. I have a slight left pull in the steering. Ive recently replaced ALL of the brake parts-calipers, (incl. steel) hoses, master cylinder, rotors, etc. to make sure it was not brake related.
I used strings and a level to check the alignment the old timey way, and it appears to me that the drivers side rear tire is toe'd in about 3/16". Passenger side lines up perfect. I think this is the root cause. I replaced all of the trailing arm bushings and I am told there are no rear alignment adjustments on this car. the only adjustment I see in the rear is for the swing axle centering device. Any suggestions? |
#2
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Center the axle..the center of the pivot bolt/pin has to be 36mm +/-2mm to the right of the chassis C/L.
I have a homemade tool here somewhere in the Archieves. You also want to check the diff hanger mounts , both the top bushing in the trunk and the lower one on the pivot pin
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 05-26-2009 at 10:27 PM. |
#3
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Reference Point?
I saw that you had recommended that adjustment/measurement to another question, but wasn't sure that would apply here. Thanks for the clarification.
Is there a specific point to measure from or should I just lay out a centerline as half the distance of the width between the 'frame' rails? I'm so glad to find this site and the very kind people who take the time to answer questions. Thanks again! |
#4
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Well, you can find the c/l that way, but the preferred /accurate way is to use the Chassis factory C/L Bore Holes.
Should be one just behind where the emergency cable mounts are and the front one is in the center of the trans plate. They are hard to find cuz they are covered with factory undercoat. But I have a simple tool that you can make up that has all the measures considered in it's design and it simply slips over the trailing arm step bearing bolts and then the pointer aligns with the pivot bolt..Then you just adjust the cross link until the pointer on the tool is correct. You then know you have the Pivot 36 mm to the right of the C/L I will post that tool if you want to go that route. The problem one has when dropping lines to the floor is as you adjust the cross link, the lines are no good b/c you are not moving the diff., you are moving the body.. The tool moves with the adjustments , so it is worth making b/c it makes it so easy and can aslo be used for quick checks . Take a look at those other parts I mentioned , b/c they also effect the geometry of the axle. Along with the pivot pin bushings.
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A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 05-27-2009 at 11:01 AM. |
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Wow! thank you for the quick reply.
I would like to get/fabricate the tool you are suggesting so that I can measure it properly. If I have to replace those bushings (they all look okay), I will have a way to properly adjust the diff. If I don't at least I can eliminate it from the mix. I do think, and agree, that is probably where the issue is |
#6
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Here is my tool design:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/jeffc280sl/200833192846_113tool2.jpg It is simply made from 1/2 copper tubing soldered together. I use the step bearing mounts at the front of the trailing arms as my reference b/c I have those body location measures in my chassis diagrams. $10 will do it. You can see that the two open ends will then slip over the bolt shafts that are at each trailing arm front mount bolts. Then you just hold the pointer near the pivot pin bolt head and adjust the axle link until the pointer of ther tool lines up ..At That point , the axle is centralized with the chassis. The easy way to make the tool is to lay the geometry out on a piece of plywood with a couple of drywall screws and washers to replicate the step bearing bolts and a drill hole for the pointer ..then set all the cooper parts togeter and mounted on the two screws and the hole , and SOLDER all joints together In- Situ..there it is , one piece and all to spec. The TRICK is to lay the geometry out backwards [ r/l] , b/c you are making the tool upside down using the plywood method..when you are done and flip it over, the R is then L. This has to be done b/c you will notice that the right step bearing is at a different location that the left one from C/L..they offset this distance at the factory to accomadate the swing fulcrum so both wheels will have approx same camber.
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A Dalton |
#7
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A Dalton |
#8
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That is just awsome! Thank you so much.
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#9
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You're Welcome.......
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A Dalton |
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